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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/14/14 in all areas

  1. Hi, I have 2 pocket movements with numbers stamped on them : 20656 and 87763. I googled those numbers but nothing is coming up in the first few pages of results. I don't know who the manufacturer is... One of those has a click system I've never seen before : it doesn't pivot like they usually do, it's more like a spring bar (I'll post pics later when I have time) I'm trying to find a bit more information just because I'm curious. I'm going to take them apart for cleaning and reassembly (practice watches). Maybe I'll find clues on some of the pieces... Any ideas on where to look ?
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  2. I would clarify this further (hope you don't mind Geo): You can get away with the spring being slightly lower in height, or slightly longer or shorter. But try your best to get the strength (thickness) exact as this could lose amplitude if it is too weak or cause the balance to knock the banking pins if too strong. And as Geo said, try not to order one which is slightly higher as it may foul the barrel lid. Hope this helps.
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  3. I love bringing watches back from the brink! This Garrard come to me looking less than top a New Glass, full service,new Hirsch strap and of course re-plating, the face I decided not to touch as it isnt that bad and I think any work could ruin it. I wish I had taken a photo of the back of the lugs and the back of the case as it was a mess but hey ho without further ado. Before IMG_1646 by Jorrit and Hillary, on Flickr IMG_1648 by Jorrit and Hillary, on Flickr IMG_1650 by Jorrit and Hillary, on Flickr And after Untitled by Jorrit and Hillary, on Flickr Untitled by Jorrit and Hillary, on Flickr Untitled by Jorrit and Hillary, on Flickr I am really pleased with it Scott at Easy electroplating was really pleasant to deal with and kept me updated at every step of the way. So what do you think? financially not really worth it, but I wont be selling (for a while anyway!) so worth it in my mind Hope you get yours sorted its a nice little timepiece
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  4. Mark's method has always worked for me. Measure as Mark said using vernier calipers and if the exact size that you require is not produced, go for the next size down to the nearest fraction of a mm. That way you know it will fit into the barrel with the lid on. You may loose a small bit of power, but the watch will at least run and you should still be able to regulate it to reasonable limits.
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