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Ok, as a jeweler I can tell you that if this came in my store, I wouldn't secure this lug with anything other than my laser welder. Can it be soldered, probably, but no jeweler is going to want to use hard solder, so it will be done with easy solder. I can almost guarantee that the solder will flow around the crack as well as in it. This means more cleanup and being such a tight space, well, thats another reason I wouldn't use solder. Not all 18k are the same, there are different shades in color. Lasers definitely have limitations, but in the years I have had mine, I have never had an issue with yellow gold or platinum, especially high karat gold. In the laser its like butter and produces an very secure joint. Remember that solder is a special alloy formulated for heat, while lasers use actually gold wire and basically work like a tig welder. Lastly, if you seek out a jeweler with a welder, make sure its a laser welder and not a puck welder. These are not as precise nor as clean in their function. Here in the states anything done on the laser starts at $30.00 and goes up from there, so it shouldn't be crazy expensive. Good luck

I'm a watch DIYer, having serviced two watches myself, partially using tools of my own making. One thing I've been working on over the last few months is my own PC based timing machine. I've finally got something working reliably, and thought I'd preview it here. My plan is to eventually write up a detailed article on my web site describing how to build the hardware, and providing a download for the software. I may also produce a "pro" version of the software with more features, to be sold for a reasonable fee. Here's the hardware, all home made of course: The next picture shows the timing trace from my "Black Lagoon", a modified Invicta 8926OB with a Seiko NH35A movement (yes, the amplitude is quite low and tends to fluctuate, topping out around 220 degrees - apparently this is par for the course for Seiko movements): In this picture, the software is in scope mode, showing directly the ticks and tocks. Notice how with this movement, they alternate in loudness. Since the scope mode was run after the timing mode, the scope also shows the threshold that was used by the timing mode to detect the start of each tick. And this is the settings window: Here's a brief list of features so far (I have to resist creeping featuritis): Numerical display of daily rate error, balance amplitude, and beat error. Horizontal "paper tape" mode with sub-pixel vertical resolution that can show fluctuations that are too small to see on a typical stand-alone timing machine. User selectable averaging period. Rate determination using linear least squares, which gives a more meaningful reading than just naively averaging the rate. Automatic signal and noise level determination. There's nothing to adjust. Aggressive noise filtering in the software to keep the hardware simple. Automatic rate detection for common rates. Simple, uncluttered, fixed-size display (1024x600). Scope mode to aid in diagnosis of various watch faults.

If just concerned about the screw falling off again, you can put a bit of glue on it ,which keeps it in place in slot, do not attempt overtightening the screw? I see two chisel marks on both sides of the screw slot. You should check the other side of the bridge for effects of chisel impact. The bridge should be perfctly flat and in no way impede free transfer of power to barrel ratchet. No soldering, just glue and watch out for glue seeping furthure to the movement. So if it winds good it is doing it's job right. Regards joe

I would suggest that you have it serviced. Do not put oil down the pendant tube, it will cause more problems than it solves as there is no saying where the oil will end up.

Hi, This like the previous one you worked on is a high grade eta, 36000bph Eta 2836 beats 28800bph, so different train. They look about the same though. Regards joe

I think this is what you want. Download its in pdf format. https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DefaultDesktop.aspx?tabindex=2&tabid=28&Caliber=2834-2

You are absolutely correct on this and heat shield would be a good idea if soldering is the preferred method of repair. However, remember that when any type of heat shield is used, it essentially works as a heat sink which means the torch has to be cranked up to compensate. Being that this is an 18k lug, only an experienced jeweler should attempt this. I say experienced because here in the states, there are too many "jewelers" that are amateur at best. They think they can handle something like this and what you can be left with is a melted lug.

Hi, slightly raise the three prongs holding the cab in place. Cleaning in wash machine or by solvent are preffered approach, since the incab design is not suitable for frequent removal. Regards joe

Just finished making yet another balance staff. The big problem I had was that after I Jacot to pivots down to size, the balance itself was slightly warped causing the balance to rub against the palate fork plate. I managed to straighten it using caliber and fingers. Works well now. Fun day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

morningtundre is right. Get it gold soldered. The higher the carat the softer the gold. You need to have it repaired properly.

I’d recommend taking it to a jewelers to ask about gold solder. Epoxy could be messy and usually ends up where you don’t want it. Beautiful watch and worth doing properly IMO... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What ever method you choose support the inside with pivot wire or something similar or you risk distorting it.