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  2. No no no! Hands are too much delicate to push on the cushion while working on the back, they can change inclination, bend, scratch dial. Use a universal movement holder big enough to embrace dial rim BUT take care to not strong or the dial could deform. Have a nice journey, I know it could be a little bit frustrating but perseverance is the only way to satisfaction! Inviato dal mio VOG-L29 utilizzando Tapatalk
  3. So I'm working my casing up a naked movement. Making TONS of mistakes. Just ordered my THIRD cheap Chinese 2824 clone movement thanks to screw-ups rendering the first two non-functional. Thank God for cheap Chinese clone movements. Anyway, my question is this: When I have the dial and hands attached, I then wind the movement and let it run overnight so that I can make sure that the hands don't rub on each other, or hit the dial's attached indices. Then I want to turn the movement over, move the click and release mainspring tension, then remove the stem so that I can put the movement in the case. So I take the movement off of the movement holder (dedicated 11 1/2 linge movement holder, best $15 bucks I ever spent on eBay) and... then what? Is it safe to put a running movement face down on a case cushion? If not, then do I just skip releasing he click all together, and let the movement run down for however many hours it takes? Even with the movement not running, would it THEN be safe to put the movement face down on a cushion with the dial and hands still attached? Of will I rink damaging the hands/scratching the dial? Some stuff you just can't learn on your own. Thank God for the internet.
  4. I stand corrected on the date, it probably is correct, I have references of a Thomas Speakman, London making clocks from 1685 dying in 1714. If it has been restored why does the movement door look like the hinge on the bottom is damaged?
  5. Its a 30 hour English Longcase. I don't think its as old as 1700, but I will leave that to the experts. It won't be a chiming clock, but will be a striking clock, that is it will count out the hour on the hour, most likely by striking a bell. Every day you need to pull the weight back up. I'll look at my books and see if I can get an approximate date based on the hands. If the clock has been professionally serviced and needs no work the starting bid is already at the top end of its value in my opinion, if its not been serviced correctly and needs work its value is much lower. They have not posted any photos of the movement which you really need to see, but the rope and lead donut do look new, so it probably has been recently serviced.
  6. Today
  7. Greg you cannot rush these things. Planning is everything! Thanks for your comments.
  8. Got a small collection of sicura, ten or a few more, will post, This one I got used, keeps accurate time. Looks like the bezel rotating or not must have had some painted indicators. Regards
  9. One of the very first makes i overhauled. They have many interesting pieces representative of the 70's. I still have a automatic jump hour in my collection. Thanks for sharing! J
  10. Those cuckoo clocks look real nice. When I was a kid my aunt had a cuckoo clock and every time I visited I wanted to see the cuckoo come out. I'll have to get one someday. In the meantime I have some plans for a scrollsawn one to work with a quartz movement. It should look real sweet if I ever get around to making it ( the plans have been sitting for 10 years same as the movement, dial etc).
  11. Yesterday
  12. Hi Shaz, there’s a lot to learn and there are plenty of top blokes on here who will help. You could also invest in the coarse, it’s very good.
  13. It says it’s a chiming movement but only one weight so what would power the chime train? Unless it’s the little round donut thing but that doesn’t look very heavy. Also in the 1600’s was there much paperwork? Working with deeds the earliest I’ve come across was 1750’s and it was in Latin.
  14. Read the discription, what do you think is wrong? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Grandfather-Clock/264292329793?hash=item3d890ce941:g:8uUAAOSw4LVcvBH1
  15. Speaking of testing... This is today's "Watch of Today", a 1972 Timex sprite. I don't think I've actually worn a watch this size since I was in short trousers, although the watch in question probably looked a lot like this but without the date. It may in fact have been the same vintage, as this one started life in 1972, and as I recall my childhood watch had a dark blue or black dial and a dark green strap. This one seems to have survived the day keeping reasonable pace with the Swatch, so I think we will call that a success.
  16. It looks like solid brass? If so, you can just take the old laquer off with paint remover, then polish it and redo the clock with laquer you buy in spray cans, wipe it over with mineral turps first to take off any resadue. Don't leave it raw brass as it will tarnish quick and you will get fingerprints all over it.
  17. The distinction between capacitor and rechargeable battery technology seems to be becoming pretty grey. Strictly speaking a lot of the "capacitors" in watches are technically more akin to batteries. Supercapacitors and rechargeable cells technology is colliding. The Panasonic watch cells in particular are described by Panasonic as coin type rechargeable batteries, but Sieko describes them as energy storage devices. Other technologies exist or are being developed that produce "supercapacitors" which are more like a typical capacitor, all be it with a limited voltage range which is similar to the charged voltage of a lithium cell but with capacities in the farad or tens of farads range. Current supercapacitors are however typically of the order of a tenth of the energy density of a similar sized rechargeable lithium cell. The technology is developing apace, and I suspect in 5 to 10 years, watches may have their "energy storage device" integrated on to the same die as the rest of the electronics.
  18. Hi and welcome Superfly, brilliant friendly forum, enjoy.
  19. Love the Seiko divers. I have a SSC017 and looking to build an SKX soon.
  20. We discussed this recently, but it is interesting to see in that PDF. Page 5 Paragrah 3 - Handling of lubricants. 1. Write down the date of receipt of the new lubricants. 2. Change the lubricants every six years. Now I guess that makes sense, based on the idea of servicing the watch every 5 years. If the shelf life of lubricants is generalized as 5 years, then they will need to be replaced every 5 to 6 years. I guess this will be more a sort of half life than an instantly goes bad at 6 years. As experience tells us, some watches manage to limp along with no change of lubrication for considerably more than 6 years, but best practice suggests that lubricant performance starts to take a hit after 5 years or more.
  21. There were some guys selling watch cases on watchuseek forums.
  22. I have a Seiko 5 with the 7S26 movement near 30 yrs now and never had it serviced. Of course I dont use it everyday but I did lots of cycling with it and it just keeps on ticking.If anything I need to give it a bath.
  23. Hi rst199, welcome to the asylum, I think you will fit in nicely.
  24. If I remember correctly I did a google Gif search.
  25. Check the 1: Balance pivots are okay and not worn or to short. The later have seen lots of times. So measure the balance and compare that with data . 2: Endstones are clean and have no damage. 3: Hairspring touching the balance bridge or balance wheel arms 4: Jewels are clean and not damaged.
  26. I'm from Toronto. What part of Ontario r u from?
  27. I bought a bunch of junk watches at an auction and most of them were solar, mostly Citizen and Seiko. Out of the lot, I got 2 to work after sunning them for a couple days. The rest I presume all need capacitors. I read somewhere that watch capacitors dont like being fully discharged and tend to give up the ghost. I have the rest sunbathing and they're not coming back to life.
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