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  2. Looks like a fun project. I suspect there is little that would stop it passing modern electrical safety standards, so long as it is earthed, has the correct rated fuse, and a suitable mains cable attached. How does the speed controller work? Some of these old speed controllers use an interesting arrangement of compressible carbon disks as a variable resistor. I have an old Singer sewing machine that uses this arrangement, and a slightly newer Kenwood Chef mixer that uses a triac speed controller. Both are 1970s vintage, and both work well. I would inspect any capacitors associated with the motor assuming there are any, and perhaps replace those with modern suitably rated ones, but the rest I would suspect is fine. If the motor runs, then it will probably keep running. If this is a brushed motor, you might like to take the opportunity to clean the commutator with a bristle brush (not a steel wire one) and inspect the motor carbon brushes too. If the brushes are badly worn or damaged, they can kill the commutator pretty quickly.
  3. When working with small metal parts, (not necessarily watch parts, but this applies with those too), I will superglue the part to something I can easily hold, for example plastic card stock, or some other metal, then file away, drill, etc. then dissolve the superglue in acetone to remove the part.
  4. A bit of a classic Timex. So much so that Timex recently released a Snoopy version of the new Miyota automatic based Marlins, and a bunch of other self homages in the Peanuts Charlie Brown, Snoopy & Friends range. This more petite version, I'm guessing from the mid seventies, is the one I remember from my childhood, blue dial and all. It is heading in my direction as a "non runner" (no surprises there), and I was the only bid at £1.93
  5. I have recently purchased a National, Electric Watch Cleaning Machine. Attached is a photo for reference and identification of the model type. As can be seen, it has a fairly typical design, reminiscent of many other types, particularly Elma Super Elite. In fact, I do wonder which came first - the National or the Elma. My musings on this point later. This is a very old machine, circa late 1940’s, 1950’s, but they seem to turn up sometimes on eBay, in various conditions ranging from the “beyond hope” and only really suitable as a donor for parts, and the “old but serviceable” and might-be-worth-a-punt-on machines. This one fell into the middle somewhere, as it was a bit tatty and the heating element did not work. On the plus side, it had all its original cleaning fluid jars and lids, and the motor and speed control gave smooth, controllable spinning and no play in the bearings. I went to visit the seller to inspect it and we did a deal on the spot. This is not always possible on eBay, but as the seller had listed it as for collection only (due to its weight), it was a possibility on this occasion. Once I had it home and gave it the once over, I decided that I would have to either do without heating for the drying stage, or find a replacement element. At the same time, it was very obvious that all of the original cabling was not safe to leave in place and it would all have to be removed and replaced. Any other electrical parts deemed unsafe would also be replaced as I inspected them. So - the idea of a restoration (of sorts) was born. Now - it is not my intention to restore it to the point where it could pass current electrical safety standards, but I will be making it as safe as possible, without losing any of the essential character of the original machine. This is not going to be for resale, so being safe to use is an acceptable compromise, in my opinion. I will however, perform testing on it once the electrical work is done, to make sure that the essential aspects of earth leakage, earth bonds and polarity etc. are passed. (PAT Testing included.) Whilst this is not likely to turn into another example of a superb restoration of an Elma Super Elite (as seen elsewhere on these forums), I hope at least to have at the end of it, a perfectly serviceable watch cleaning machine, and a restoration story - of sorts - of a vintage piece of English watch making and servicing machinery. So first off - the before pictures. This one is a good view of the machine and its cosmetic condition, as purchased. The base is a heavy, cast alloy jobbie, with its original crackle paint job beginning to flake away in places, where the years of cleaning chemicals have attacked it, but generally sound. The jars still had residues of cleaning and rinse chemicals present. The first wash jar (front left), was particularly grotty and can’t have been cleaned for years. Fairly ironic not to clean the thing, that cleans the things! Maybe it was just left unused and unloved for many years. The mains cable was a cloth-bound type I have not seen in years and could well have been original as it still had the old UK wiring standard colours of red/black/green. Also adding to the vintage-ness, was a very old, Bakelite three pin plug. This must have been one of the first of its type as I have not seen one in brown Bakelite before! (And I am 62...) Anyway, that’s enough for now, as I’m not even sure anyone wants to read much about such an old machine. If anyone is interested though, please add comments and I’ll add to the story as I make progress. At the very least, I hope I have found a potential solution to finding/ making your own heating elements for these old machines, which could also include providing replacements for Elma Super Elite, RM80/90 HCS511 etc. Machines. More details later...
  6. Wood is surely more sustainable and cheap than brass... I noticed that sometimes people like clickspring (makes videos on tooling and clockmaking) use some kind of superglue to hold metal together. At 6:54, if you get bored...
  7. I've just bought a small amount of the Horotec Episurf-Neo, which is advertised as a 'next gen' epilame treatment. Directions for use say 30 second dip, 60 second dry at air temperature. So no heat required. I too am looking for a cheap DIY alternative to the special dip bottle. I've been experimenting with the little filter baskets from the water inlets on washing machines! Haven't found the perfect solution yet, but I'm working on it!
  8. Just to let you know, I got a mainspring from Jules Borel. Thanks again!
  9. One problem I've had with that is that after I file it to a "D" it's difficult to hold in a pin vise.
  10. Hi RY looks like an up hill task, careful application of a fibergass brush will probably clean up the plates a bit, You have a bit of a job on there it will be time consuming I wish you well on your endeavour keep us posted on the progress.
  11. Hi As Tmuir explained the top 2 are rolller removing stumps used in conjunction with a staking tool or roller removing table. No 5 is also a roller remover, No 7 Is a tool by Kenrick and Davis need a better look at the ends before defining its possible use Nos 3 maybe a roller remover fork, No 4 again need to see the ends It is possible its for tightening cannon pinions
  12. Interesting, maybe I'll try that then. I guess I kind of assumed they were necessary to do it correctly but perhaps I overestimated it. Thanks for the advice either way
  13. Oops, hit the "Submit" button instead of the "insert Media" button! So first off- the Operating Lever was badly rusted as was the Flyback Lever and Sliding Gear Spring. These parts are not salvageable. Quite a bit of rust was left on the plate too after removing these bits. That's too bad as the top plate has a nice Geneva Stripe pattern on it. Hopefully I'll be able to clean the residue off. Bits of rust had made their way all throughout the movement. The biggest concern thus far is the Center Wheel though. It had some rust damage on the top pivot. I'm going to try and clean this up but I may have to look for a replacement wheel. Under the dial, the keyless works saw quite a bit of rust staining. Amazingly, almost all of the rust here came from the stem and pushers. The gears for the keyless work, including the had only minor damage. Underneath the top plate was quite a bit of rust residue. The Main Plate had quite a bit of rust staining as well. Some of this will clean up, but the silver plating has been damaged as well so there is only so much that can be done. The chronograph buttons and the stem are in a bad way. This is what they looked like after several hours in Coca-Cola (well, Diet Coke actually). Here's the full inventory of replacement parts needed thus far: Operating Lever Flyback Lever Sliding Gear Spring Minute Recording Jumper Stem I can probably turn replacement shafts for the chronograph pushers on the lathe but since one button was damaged as well (or at least very well worn) I purchased replacements off eBay. A replacement stem is coming from Jules Borel for $13.50 and for $300 I got a lot of New Old Stock parts from a seller on eBay. This included the Operating Lever, Flyback Lever, Sliding Gear Spring, and Minute Recording Jumper plus seventeen additional parts and five coil springs for the pushers. It was a good deal considering most of these parts can't be had from the normal supply houses anymore. So that puts the total cost thus far at $1014.50. I've also put about six hours of work into the project- most of it on cleaning rust and removing rusted screws. This morning I decided to purchase replacement buttons as well even though the cost is a budget breaker. They'll be about $90 a piece but their New Old Stock as well. I should have some more pictures up shortly as I begin reassembly.
  14. Hi One suggestion is to fit the brass pin in a pin vise and polish the rough end in the same manner as you have used already, assuming that the new pin is over size and can be polished back
  15. Okay, time for an update- I've disassembled the movement and been able to take an inventory of the damaged parts. Things are not quite as bad as they initially looked although there is one area of concern. Here's the pictures:
  16. For newbies interrested and after getting feedback on tweezers brand. Placed order for the following. 5306-1AM-PS-1 Dumont Style 1AM Brass 0.12/0.2mm 0203-3-PS-1 Dumont Style 3 Dumoxel 0.04/0.08mm 0203-5-PS-1 Dumont Style 5 Dumoxel 0.01/0.05mm Not sure if I made right choice on size. We make decisions amd learn AJ
  17. Mark has done a video on this. I followed his approach and I've been successful so far--though I'm variable on getting it right the first time. Key is to get the right consistency: neither too thick or too runny. (Hope it's okay if I post a link to the video?)
  18. That couldn't be more explanative and informative. I'm amazed of the effort done in the research. My order record says I have replaced the escape wheel from a 1950. Therefore, I just ordered a spare 1803 movement to make it right. Thanks again, much appreciated.
  19. I have an old Waltham pocket watch movement which is missing the impulse pin (roller jewel). I have a limited number of actual jewels and since this is just a practice movement I thought I'd try to make one out of brass. I've seen this several times in old pieces--usually a very sloppy job. So I got some brass stock of the same diameter as the "D" in the roller table, filed it and burnished it to a high gloss. Then I took a small, very fine diamond file and filed it half flat to form the "D" I then polished the face using progressively finer sandpaper on a steel block. This works fine--so far! Problem is separation of the piece from the stock. Again I used a small cutting file to do this but it doesn't leave the end very pretty. So what I've done so far is to fit the good end into the roller table. I then plan to shellac it in place and see if I can very carefully adjust the length and clean up the end. Has anyone done this before? Any suggestions as to how best to do it?
  20. Horosolv looks to be the same as One Dip, which is what I have. Both are a modified carbon tetrachloride. I think it should be ok. I've soaked balance completes in it and haven't had any problems. Don't soak in any alcohol because that will dissolve the shellac. I also use Zenith hairspring cleaner which doesn't leave a residue like One Dip. https://timesavers.com/i-22336011-zenith-hair-spring-cleaner.html
  21. I don't think grease will help, pay attention to what Ancyclient wrote above, the die must press on the perimeter only. You have a lathe so no problem for you to make a better die if needed.
  22. I'm counting 12 on both pinions there. Maybe start by sleeving the bore of the new pinion, it looks much bigger than the old one. That will allow it either engage more deeply or shallowly depending which way you're turning it.
  23. I use cyanoacrylate very often, it's super handy. For something like this case I might use a friction chuck, usually plastic (pvc or delrin), that the case fits onto. Typically a short spigot that friction fits an inside diameter and a square shoulder to butt up against. Of course it only holds for light cuts with sharp tooling. There are fairly sophisticated chucks that can be used but friction chucks are the traditional method, in the past they were generally wood.
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