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Which is closest to the ones you have?

I agree with you completely for older watches, but the Revue 30 dates from 1910 onwards. They were still being made up until at least WW2, and there is reasonable parts interchangeability in my experience, assuming same jewel count. Very early Revue 30 movements will be less tolerant of replacement parts being fitted without adjustment than the later ones. Escapement parts were the last to require hand fitting to eachother in each watch and are thus unique to the movement but the other parts from even an early Revue 30 should be interchangeable within watches with the same jewel count. Since the escape wheel is part of the escapement there is no guarantee, but it’s likely an escape wheel from another 7 jewel Revue 30 will fit this watch. The escapement will need adjustment (pallet stones, safety action etc) may need adjustment to set up the escapement optimally, though. Best Regards, Mark

Thanks for the tip. I'll have another look just to be safe. But, shouldn't there be like a splined or geared end to unscrew the tube? This one is just straight tubing. So, I tried contacting Cousins UK asking if these pushers come with the tube or not and unfortunately they couldn't help and their website has no documentation if it does come with tubing. That said, do they come in complete, ie tube, gasket, pushers? I'm not sure which of these two would be more appropriate: Thank you.

Well, when you first posted some time back, I downloaded and ran it through my slicer to get a print time. A bit long for me. Your new idea would solve this. I am anxious to see your progress!!

Just arrived, i thknk i know what most of it is for, though there are a few obscure items , some watchmaker made by the looks. I love the arbor vices, and not quite a complete screw polisher among the lot. The six in the last picture I'm not sure about but i have an idea about 1 or two of them.

Hi. Breaks like this can br fixed with conductive paint like the paint used to repair a car rear screen heater. I have used it successfully, you don’t need much and unlike solder there is no heat 6020A-1.pdf

the problem with vintage watches and yes quartz watches can be vintage is availability of parts will be a problem. I have a link below where we can cross reference the coil and I was hoping for more. Another problem for vintage parts are everyone on the group gets used to ordering from online. Conceivably the physical material houses that still exist out there might have the part and you'd have to reach out to them and see if anyone has one. this is because they don't list every single part that they have online with the exception of cousins where everything they do is online work just doesn't exist but the other material houses can have stuff not listed. Otherwise just set up a search on eBay and sooner or later it will possibly show up if you're lucky. http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=SEK_6020A

Hi welcome to the forum. Enjoy

the bestfit book refers to Revue as wittnauer and the fingerprint we have this.

Maybe a little off-topic, but it still amazes me that most people (and myself before I got into this hobby) don't realise that the movement of their watch was (in most cases) not made by the name on the dial of the watch. This is especially true of many 'fashion' watches which use the cheapest of cheap movements ($4 each) which are completely out of proportion to the overall cost of the watch ($++100s). Usually the actual manufacturer is stamped somewhere inconspicuous on the movement, usually around the balance, and this is what you need to find so you can locate spare parts or servicing manuals etc. This is like buying a top of the line Rolls Royce Phantom and learning it has a BMW engine..... oh wait a minute, it does! (6.75-liter, 460-horsepower BMW V12 engine - reference)

I have an image of what the case is supposed to look like disassembled. then an interesting website https://www.mybulova.com/vintage-bulova-catalogs there's all sorts of interesting things here for anyone in watch repair. but for the particular subject these are the two I recommend. You can see page 7 is where I got the image of the case. Then the word apartment technical manual is really a training manual of watch repair covers wristwatches and pocket watches everybody should have a copy of this.

they are the same movement and under the same umbrella, sometimes you will see both company marks stamped on the main plate...... https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.opswatches.com/a-complete-guide-to-watch-movement-manufacturers/&ved=2ahUKEwiXydnwsdqFAxVfRTABHaPZDPo4ChAWegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw1REXmYw__k9RBspLm7cmDV

I agree, the bezel needs removing. If there isn't a gap between the case and bezel for removal, it's probably screw on. If so you need to grip the bezel itself.

Looking at the picture, the case screws appear to stop the movement moving forward (towards the crystal) indicating that this is the way the watch needs to travel to remove it from the case, hence it appears to be a front loader, this is just a 'rule of thumb' and as ever there are many exceptions. Hence, I would be fairly confident that the front bezel needs to be removed and the movement taken out the front of the watch. Look on the bezel for a small slit, similar to what you would see on a snap-on case back to remove it then the watch movement should fall out the front of the watch.

Welcome to the forum, enjoy.That is watch have not serviced before. Maybe the front bezel unscrews.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. What happened you have already made 7 posts

I was just thinking, maybe a better solution for my design would be to have a standard base, and then use insert rings for each movement? This would reduce plastic used and print time as well as storage of the different holders? Something like this:

Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.

Look carefully at the tube end?? It appears to me to have a fragment thread visible? Either that or a step just away from the end? I can imagine a chamfer, but a step seems odd - but I've never seen the tubes used on these.

This is a very valid point and a subtlety that I was unaware of until fairly recently, learning all the time, the video below explains this point well:

You don't have to use his special tester. Any good multimeter would work.

Yes, it looks like GT Revue 30. Doctor, You can not replace escape wheel by the dimensions You listed. One needs to know much more things like number of leaves of the pinion and it's diameter, the position in high of the table and the pinion, the hight between the pivots, the exact pivots diameter... And then, even if suitable wheel is found, one will need to know how to adjust the pallets position correctly. Restoring antique movements is something different than replacing parts. In older movements parts are not interchangeable, this means spare parts do not exist. Here the case is different, but still escapement adjustment will be needed if a wheel from a donor is found. So may be it will be easier to restore the donor for You...Restoring antique movements usually means making of the parts needed and this requires knowlage and working on lathes skill. In this case repivoting of the wheel is the natural solution, but there is a long way that one must walk untill getting ready for such work.

I was looking at Essence of Renata, a chemical used a lot for cleaning hairsprings: "Specially prepared solution for degreasing watch and instrument components. Indispensable for degreasing hairsprings." Looking at the MSDS you can see this is just pure n-Heptane, so could be an option for those who don't want to use the chlorocarbons or hexane? HF6013 - Horological Essence COSHH Safety Data Sheet Horological Essence_0.pdf

Great!!

Welcome from a fellow Seiko enthusiast, there are lots of us on this forum.