Documentation, Books & Service Sheets
Discussing watch repair documentation, books, parts lists and service sheets
66 topics in this forum
-
- 1 reply
- 1.5k views
-
- 3 replies
- 3.1k views
-
- 4 replies
- 2.3k views
-
- 12 replies
- 3.2k views
-
- 2 replies
- 2.9k views
-
- 0 replies
- 1.9k views
-
- 47 replies
- 25.6k views
-
- 7 replies
- 3.4k views
-
- 2 replies
- 2.3k views
-
- 2 replies
- 2.5k views
-
- 5 replies
- 5.3k views
-
- 8 replies
- 3.8k views
-
- 5 replies
- 2.8k views
-
- 5 replies
- 6.9k views
-
- 11 replies
- 15.5k views
-
- 6 replies
- 3.2k views
-
- 1 reply
- 2.8k views
-
- 22 replies
- 4.3k views
-
- 2 replies
- 2.7k views
-
- 0 replies
- 2.7k views
-
- 1 reply
- 4.9k views
-
- 9 replies
- 4.7k views
-
- 3 replies
- 3.4k views
-
- 0 replies
- 2.7k views
-
- 4 replies
- 4k views
-
Topics
-
-
Posts
-
By HectorLooi · Posted
Yes @SwissSeiko, most of us here are just hobbyist and some horological products are simply too expensive. For example, cleaning fluids. I think even you find L&R cleaning fluids expensive. But I haven't found anything that shines up parts like #111. So I just bite the bullet and fork up the $$$. Here in Singapore, a bottle of #111 is $180SGD. ($134USD) The Rinse #3 is the same price. Oils like 2ml of Moebius 9010 is around $45SGD. Imagine if you had to fill your car engine with 5 quarts of 9010! I have been using odorless kerosene to preclean my parts before putting them into the #111. The kerosene does such a fantastic job that I may use that in place of the Rinse #3. But I can do without the #111, but now its role is just a brightening agent. So my cleaning regimen will be kerosene, #111, kerosene and IPA. I see how that works out. I might even re-distill my used IPA to save even more. -
By SwissSeiko · Posted
What works for you, is good enough for me. You and I have great interactions on here, and you've taught me some things! I guess I should approach things with the thought process that most of the users on here are probably doing this as a hobby. I find myself reading some posts and thinking, that's definitely not how I would do it. But I do this for a living, I have overhead costs, bills to pay, taxes, tooling costs ect., and to many on here, it's probably just fine to do it as is necessary to work. So I'm probably a little overzealous when it comes to finishing. You should know, we(for sure at least me) appreciate you. If someone chimes in on my posts, it's usually you, and you're a good chap! -
Hi. Just curious. Is there an official service center for orient in your area? I had a problem with my orient mako before. I was regulating the movement and lost focus on what I was doing. I accidentally hit the balance wheel . I had the same issue in finding parts for it so I ended up sending it to the official service center here in the Philippines. -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
I think it was HectorLooi that posted some information at the time that we were discussing what materials to use for cleaning jars in an ultrasonic machine. It was decided that steel jars transmit the cavitation bubbles better than glass or plastic, which was considered the worst as it absorbs their energy. So I've tried a few different cleaning solutions, mostly non-proprietary watch stuff. There is a thread I made last year experimenting , actually I might have tagged it onto someone else's thread, I can't remember. Just mirror residue and evaporation rates. 🤔 Elma pro ammoniated, paraffin, ligher fuel , Ipa, meths, and I think break cleaner was in there as well. Elma and paraffin have a very slow evaporation rate, probably days. Both have wetting properties and are far reaching, paraffin being very much so, if you're looking for a deep cleaning solution then paraffin soaks well and finds every nook, cranny and crevice. When I use paraffin which is usually if I hand or US pre clean then i place the parts on absorbant tissue afterwards to soak up the excess then spin them off and use IPA or break cleaner to rinse them off after that a rotary wash with elma and ipa for rinsing . I don't use a US that much, really just if any wheels and pinion leaves are really gunked up, which is when I hang them on the little wire tree. I kind of base how i will clean by how dirty and gunked up the movement is. If it's bad the procedure will follow : soak in paraffin for a couple of hours, peg out plate and bridges and hand clean what I can with a small brush to remove the bulk. Then onto the USM, some parts that can be hung go on the tree like wheels etc, others that can't go in a slow rotating mesh basket, all in paraffin, the USM loosens the crap up . Then put them in a rotary basket, spin them in paraffin, spin off the excess, then in elma then 3 rinses in IPA. That's like the full valet, if the movement is really dirty. The parts that don't get that treatment are the balance complete and the pallet fork, which I really like to clean by hand. Screws and springs I also won't put in a machine, too easily lost, these are easily cleaned by swishing them in a jar of whatever you fancy . If I get a really stubborn sticky hairspring, that will be removed for cleaning separately, brreak fluid is good for that or tetrachloroethylene. Thats one way to get rid of the mother in-law, at 85 yrs old mine is heart attack territory.....🤔....I could accidentally have an envelope with certain contents fall out of my jacket pocket onto her dining room table...accidentally....🤔 -
By eccentric59 · Posted
Yeah, that's the guy. I told him it's cheaper if I just send the pictures to my mother-in-law directly. 😮
-
.thumb.jpg.cb17a66989f1e796fd4217db2e9ca9df.jpg)
