Jump to content

Relax Zone: Chat About Anything Here

Talk about whatever you fancy within the forum rules, not just about watches.
BUT: If you wish to start a topic relating to watch repair then please find the appropriate section here.


SECTION RULES

This section is for those who wish to relax and chit chat about whatever.
BUT PLEASE: Do not post topics here regarding watch repair, you can find an appropriate section for any watch repair topics here. Thank you for your understanding.


622 topics in this forum

    • 18 replies
    • 1.4k views
  1. Grandfather folk song.

    • 3 replies
    • 732 views
    • 2 replies
    • 552 views
    • 3 replies
    • 271 views
  2. Making Leather Straps

    • 7 replies
    • 1.6k views
  3. Ugly Watches 1 2

    • 33 replies
    • 4.2k views
    • 7 replies
    • 498 views
    • 9 replies
    • 1.1k views
    • 4 replies
    • 674 views
  4. Oh What a Weekend!!! 😭

    • 1 reply
    • 420 views
    • 7 replies
    • 786 views
    • 21 replies
    • 1.2k views
    • 25 replies
    • 1.9k views
  5. Previous post

    • 1 reply
    • 1.5k views
  6. Away

    • 4 replies
    • 1k views
    • 8 replies
    • 538 views
    • 2 replies
    • 591 views
    • 67 replies
    • 6k views
    • 4 replies
    • 1.6k views
  7. Brewing

    • 16 replies
    • 1.1k views
    • 6 replies
    • 747 views
    • 11 replies
    • 792 views
    • 2 replies
    • 798 views
    • 7 replies
    • 1.4k views
    • 21 replies
    • 2.3k views


  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.    
×
×
  • Create New...