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Hi I just inherited an ascot Krippl watch, it was manufactured in 2009 and was bought ten years ago in a u.k store, although the watch is ten years old all it needed was a battery. The watch is in excellent condition, someone once remarked to me recently the watch looked like cheap crap. I inherited another Swiss watch and the similarities to the ascot is uncanny, both are stainless steel backs and waterproof. The ascot watch was bought in a Lidls store. When I was in Berlin recently I never saw any ascot watches in a Lidl store. It's a pretty robust watch and has got the manufacture date and serial number on it. They are highly collect able as they are sold on e bay which was a complete surprise. So the person I had spoken to recently binned the ascot off didn't know what she was talking about as I did my research !
I'm a beginner. I've been unusually successful in bringing this AS 1950/51 back to life (just dirty and oily). I now want to polish out the crystal scratches. How do I safely remove the bezel so it's not impacted? I've not done this before. Bezel still twists and looks like there's a plastic ring underneath.
Do I just pry at that notch with a screw driver? How do you get it back on? This is not a necessity. So if any risk, I won't attempt it.
First, I've watched Mark's video and read lots of webpages on alignment, but I still have a question:
I was working on one of my old Seiko's(5139) that I have assembled from three parts watches. I got everything cleaned and the train assembled. I visually looked at the Balance Complete and it looked good. After assembling the train and installing the Balance, it would only swing after I moved it and immediately back to rest. I then looked at the impulse jewel for problems and discovered it was completely missing—not broken but cleanly missing.
I had a balance wheel from another balance 5139 that I swapped to the balance cock and hairspring. I carefully aligned the new wheel with the old wheel before removing for the swap. I marked the new wheel with a Sharpie pen to indicate where the collet should be and the resting place of the impulse jewel. I then installed the new wheel in the exact position as the old wheel. I then adjusted for beat errors and the +- condition. Amplitude was about 252. It looked like I had a good runner.
I assembled the dial and hands and then it was quickly apparent the watch was galloping and running very fast. In a 60 second period it was running 70 seconds. Also, it would stop on occasion as it appeared to bind.
At this point all I can think to do is disassemble the train and visually align the impulse jewel with the pins. Is there another way to align the balance without disassembling the train. It is not a big issue to take it apart, but for future reference I wanted to see if there was a way to align without disassembly. By the way, there is no way to view the jewel and pins—even intense light and high magnification provides no view of the area..