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    • Hi all Anyone has a service manual with oiling instructions of the Seiko 5106? Many Thanks Claudio
    • Hi from warmish Edmonton, where the winter is almost done - for now! I'm working on an old grandfather clock for a friend, probably 18th century, that is weight driven. This was overhauled about 20 years ago apparently, and the watchmaker used "catgut" for the cords. These have now hardened and are unusable as they are so stiff. I went on the Perrin's website and they offer catgut but state that this is usually used for clocks with wooden pulleys, however the clock I am working on has all brass pulleys. My question therefore is, should I use catgut, or should I use nylon or other synthetic? I don't think the owner will have a preference for catgut from an authenticity point of view and will be fine with whatever I use.  What would actually happen if I used catgut with brass pulleys? Would nylon or other synthetic damage the brass pulleys over time? If you can give me your thoughts of the pros of cons of both, I'd appreciate it. Thanks as always. Roger Adams
    • I’ll apologise in advance... That statement really piqued my interest. If my maths is right the watch is now right once every six days, instead of twice a day. So it was technically a more accurate timepiece when it wasn’t working at all... I know, I’m a knob, but I find maths interesting!   For the dial issue, what the other people said. Redial, brass based, similar style. Good luck and keep asking the questions, most of us learn as much from the questions other people ask as the ones we do ourselves!     Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    • agreed....doesn't have to be fancy, worth a try
    • You can use a K&D staff remover, do the same job for a fraction of the price