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Your Walkthroughs and Techniques

Post descriptive walkthroughs of watches you have stripped down and serviced and/or repaired, parts you have made or techniques you wish to share.

This is an interesting section where we post our challenges and how we have over-come them. You can also post walkthroughs and share your techniques.


SECTION RULES

This section is strictly for those posting real step-by-step walkthroughs of actual repair or servicing techniques relating to watch repair and/or horology in general. The idea is that we help each other by describing or sharing our repair techniques, or telling a story of how we have progressed.
If you are not posting step-by-step walkthroughs, such as - you would just like to showcase a completed repair job, then please choose a more appropriate sub-forum for your content. If your post is not deemed to be a legitimate walkthrough then a moderator will move your post to the appropriate section without notice. Thank you for your co-operation.

  • You must be a member with at least 10 posts on the forum in order to contribute in this section

362 topics in this forum

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  1. Favre-Leuba 253 Service 1 2

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  2. Had to Remove a Screw

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  3. Fossil Watch Fix

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  4. Citizen 67-9119 cal.8110A "Spider" 1 2

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  5. Dorsa with Lorsa 237

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  6. Lubrication Resources

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  7. Zodiac 70 - 72

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  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I think if you want to play Billy big b.ollocks then you have to have something up your sleeve, anyone that knows how to fight, plays dirty. Lets face it a lot of folk that voted for Brexit just rolled uk their sleeves to say up yours EU hoping for good changes. We have idiots for leaders and probably none of them clever enough to clean the shitty stick they were given. I didnt vote, what will be will be.
    • I voted leave too, my reasoning was the the EU is undemocratic, no elected officials. I don't regret it but I  am sad that both sides acted like petulant toddlers.  Shameful.  I'm not on other forums but if I was and left this site, would you shun me? Of course not, we aren't petulant toddlers.  
    • This is a type of tool that may be suitable to remove the bezel - though note that I'm pretty sure the watch should be face down - not face up, as in some of the photos of these tools on amazon & ebay! If you try one one of those, put the movement screws back in first to avoid accidents. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Removal-Professional-Remover-Watchmaker-Diameter/dp/B09XCH4QVN?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A296NCMMFVXSDN&th=1  
    • Hi, I’m constantly asking my wife to help me with removing the stem in order to complete casing. To expand, this is not a challenge for me when the setting lever is secured by a screw (older calibers). However when the setting lever is attached to a spring loaded setting lever axel, like on more modern calibers, I simply don’t see how to apply enough pressure on the button to get the stem out short of putting the movement face down with the dial and hands attached, which I’m loath to do in order to avoid damaging the dial/hands? what technique should I be using? thanks  
    • Many thanks for your advice (being borne in mind at present) & offer Dell. When I was given the clock the plastic anchor was loose on the arbour (it had split at the 'hole') &, after repairing this, I have been trying to determine whether the spindle (pin) should be perpendicular when the pallet is sitting on a flat surface; or whether, when installed, its L-R extremes (or alternatively its tick & tock points) should lie at equal angles from the vertical when moved with spring absent. I can get the clock to run but in every such configuration the top block has to be turned anti-clockwise (from above) by quite a bit in order to be 'in beat' & it always runs fast (despite the pendulum being set to as slow as possible). This makes me wonder if there is any particular feature of/fault in a torsion spring clock which determines which turn direction (if any) is necessary to get it 'in beat'; & whether there would be a different set of settings that would get it running nearer to time at somewhere around the mid timing/inertia position which would then allow tweaking of the fast/slow setting.
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