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  2. 1958 - 1959 marlin - not a two piece stem. lift the set lever, pull out the stem. Here is one of mine -
  3. what you've done is very impressive and if you read what I had above I basically suggested this. But still does not make your watch a chronometer. Wikipedia below lists the Swiss chronometer standards. As I stated above I am not sure that the general run-of-the-mill Seiko has a chronometer grade hairspring and or balance wheel. For instance if you look at ETA's manufacturing sheets for watches they'll list the specifications of the different grades. As soon as you go to the better or chronometer grade it's a different hairspring and balance wheel. conceivably than you may have a tough time passing timing specifications at the extreme temperatures that chronometers are supposed to run at. what would be a fun test now is to pretend this is a Rolex and time it the way Rolex does. I'll have to get you a worksheet to fill out. The only catch is Rolex does not time at different temperatures so conceivably you could pass or equal a Rolex at least at room temperature. then I didn't read every single technical word but in the past it was sad in that the only watches that can get Swiss chronometer status are Swiss watches. I think they've excluded other countries probably because they didn't want to look bad. To understand this look up what a grand Seiko is a beautiful timepiece that keeps beautiful time unfortunately does not have a beautiful affordable price like typical Seiko's would. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/COSC
  4. @CaptCalvin - I don't have a spare movement on hand, I was looking at buying a 25 jewel out of a Montblanc Meisterstuck which seem to be plentiful and relatively cheap. Here is an example with some photos. @Bauertime - I will do some reading on addressing the hairspring, if it's a single part that needs to be addressed I can give it a go, but the watch has unknown service history so I'm not sure how worn the remainder of the movement is. @bjd1020 - Thanks for the help! Yes, the concern is the blank space in the day slot. Is there a great deal of variance in movement sizes between 7750s that lack additional complications?
  5. I cleaned them and I was going to oil them with the 1A oiler.
  6. I've been using this sheet for oiling, it's the 13-2 and no. 13 is the barrel bridge. Looks like a scrap S726 will be my option as there is no part number so I can't search for it on Cousins website.
  7. These are best left alone, lubricate from outside with a very fine pin applicator.
  8. Hi Peter I have attached the Series 3X tech guide and the NH36 tech sheet. The Tech guide has all the parts and the oiling plus assembly information hope you find it useful. jdms suggestion of sourcing bits from ebay may be the best course of action of see If you can lay you hands on a Bombay special from India or check out cousins uk. cheers Seiko NH36 (1).pdf Seiko NH3 Series.pdf
  9. Today
  10. I take it the jewels are not readily available. First time trying to install the shock springs, lost both jewels. Not a good day.
  11. @jdm Hi jdm, is there a short list of parts that are (or are not) compatible between the NH and 7S series? Also, what do you think of the reliability between the NH35 and the other major Japanese and Swiss movements. Thanks. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  12. Best is to get the cheapest 7S26 "for parts" and take it from there, that will give you more parts as well.
  13. Hi Nucejoe I have dug up the AS5100 tech and the 5200, the lemania and the Omega are already posted so a comparisson could be made cheers AS 5100, 5101, 5102, 5103, 5104, 5106, 5150, 5151, 5152, 5153, 5154, 5156.pdf AS 5200, 5201, 5202, 5203, 5204, 5206 (1).pdf
  14. I've lost the cap jewel (NH36) that goes in the barrel/train wheel bridge. Seiko doesn't specify the part number, it looks like it's part of the bridge. Any idea where I could get a replacement?
  15. This is probably exactly how they are setup with these Omegas too. I use to take a shot when working on watches and by a chance I found one when I changed the balance staff on one of these.
  16. You might this helpful. http://gmpf.com.au/pages/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Pigeon-racing.pdf
  17. Never say never. Almost any half decent movement can be made to perform at "chronometer" specifications with enough effort. Whether or not it's worth the effort though is up to you.
  18. My rule of thumb is that you want to stay above and away from 220 as that's when the effects of balance poise errors get flipped and magnified. Your movement dipping in and out of 220 isn't doing it any favors in terms of positional consistency.
  19. Yes if not reversing wheel then it's probably a wig-wag mechanism that's not wig-wagging. Either way it's a clutch mechanism that's become seized in one way or another.
  20. Hmm, that's what was in there? What's the movement diameter? 0.12 is still pretty strong for anything I'd call a "ladies" movement. For example a Peseux 7001, at 10.5"' takes a 0.11 or 0.12 depending where you look, but at 21,600 does need a bit more power. A typical 10"' LeCoultre from the same period as your patek takes a 0.10 or sometimes even thinner. These are what would be considered smaller mens movements. On edit- Ah, ok, you actually have a barrel with a 9mm inside diameter? Ok that's not what would typically be called a ladies movement even if in a ladies watch. The one you just posted coud work but it's anyone's guess if the T from a Waltham spring lines up.
  21. Hello, I found a code Any opinion, do you think it will work? Can I find this somewhere? 10x TibiV sr
  22. Hello again, Nickelsilver was very right and thank you Today I bought a micrometer Results: 1,12 -0,12 - 280 - 9 Has a hole and at the end it has tong Thank you again BR Tibi V sr
  23. The standard is with the roller centered with the arms, it the most aesthetically pleasing, also means the arms are not obscuring the fork when setting up the escapement, and makes visually checking the amplitude easy. As the roller is not poised, it does have an effect on the balance poise. So balances are always poised with the roller in place. For fun, reverse the position of roller and hairspring 180 degrees on a watch with a good rate in the vertical positions. It goes way out. On 3 arm balances it can really be anywhere. If in doubt after replacing a staff, bet on placing the roller jewel opposite where metal was removed to poise the balance.
  24. To highlight that sequence of events I wrote "makes the pallet move", meaning "initiates the movement of the pallet". Of course the pallet also transmits significant power to the impulse jewel and certain parameters can be optimized for a nicely "self starting" mov't, but all that I've omitted for the simplicity of discussion. I have been searching on (digital) old texts about the importance of this, but haven't found anything so far. Intuitively it seems to me that with a perfectly poised balance there should be no difference in performances no matter how they sit, but likely there something that escapes me? Not to say that it would be acceptable for a factory or repairer to assemble in a inconsistent manner, and before considering that three and four spokes balances also exist.
  25. @JohnR725 Thanks for the information and encouragement. Much appreciated. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
  26. Impressive artistic impression in your presentation already. Should not underestimate your aptitute handling tasks as you do, no doubt on your way to acheiving masterhood. Best wishes.
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