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  2. @NucejoeHi Joe, thanks for the welcome!
  3. Hi ITProDad - Thanks for the input, all good advice for most movements. What I'm working with is a different kind of balance assembly. I'm attaching some diagrams from the Timex service sheets. Had no trouble with the hairspring, which should be the touchiest part. It's the balance screw - it's made of butter-soft brass, and it's a tight fit. Trying to avoid carving out the slot without putting too much downward pressure on the screw - which can damage the cone tips of the balance staff - has proven to be beyond my current level of expertise. All I know to do now is close it up and move on. Maybe look for a donor in my "morgue". But I need to know how to approach this from the start the next time I run into one of these.
  4. Today
  5. Hello i am trying for the love of God to repair a 6119c, I bought another movement for spares, I have watched a number of videos on some one else dismantling and reassembling the same movements. I used an ultrasonic like i do with any other movement and cleaned them both up, I put it back together and then the day wheel disc and the date dial, once i put the dial on, they seem to sit 1/2 off each other. any ideas or feed back would be good.
  6. Balance wobble thoughts: 1. Balance staff pivot may be broken. 2. Jewels are reamed out. 3. Balance pivot jewels not seated properly. 4. Balance pivot jewels cap springs could be upside own or bent. 5. Balance cock not seated properly. thats all I can think of.
  7. What's worse is there's still too much endshake in the balance and I can't tighten this screw anymore. It runs, but it's wobbly.
  8. Reading through a service sheet for the Rolex Daytona and the movement has a 'regulation nut' under the balance bridge. You can adjust this to get the correct endshake. How is this measured? Is a special tool used?
  9. Hi and Welcome to WRT forum. Regards Joe.
  10. Yesterday
  11. And how do I tell the size needed for the basket? Measure the grey wheel? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Alrighty! I’ve posted some pics of the watch cleaning machine I have. I’m looking to confirm the basket size I’ll need. Let me know if you need any other pics and thanks again x 1M!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Hi, I'm Broderick and I'm fortunate to be working as an intern at a local clock shop. They hired me based on my clock hobbyist skills, but they really wanted someone to do watch repair and I'm loving this more than anything I've ever done for a living. Mark's videos have, of course, been instrumental to my learning and I'm already able to contribute significantly for my employers. But I'm also still just beginning what I hope will be a long and satisfying avocation. Thanks to everyone for making this forum a friendly and accessible resource.
  14. Very cool.thanks for showing us the results.
  15. You might need to buy a donor movement.
  16. I'm just finishing up a vintage Mickey Mouse watch with a Timex #24 movement. I performed cleaning per the Timex 24 service manual, which includes removing the balance and hairspring assembly. For future reference I need help in dealing with the too-soft brass V-Conic screw. I am not in the habit of rounding out screw slots, yet after carefully shaping my screwdriver tip and working as slowly and carefully as I could, I managed to mangle the balance screw slot anyway as the force required to turn the screw was apparently greater than the integrity of the brass Timex used for this part in this movement. I've seen photos of a #25 movement which also employs the V-Conic assembly, but did not appear to have the same soft brass balance screw. If anyone here has experience with this and can offer advice, please comment. Thanks!
  17. I am not a pocket watch expert but in lieu of someone with better knowledge posting a reply I can at least make some hopefully useful comments... The three wheat sheafs and sword symbol on the case tie this to the Chester assay office which, with the letter 'O' date this to 1897. Whilst I can't identify the movement maker for you I don't believe your steer towards Elgin is correct. The layout of the movement you've found doesn't match but also realise this was a US maker and your pocket watch seems very 'English' if we consider all the markings. Also crucially note that the escapement design is the English Lever type. As a suggestion use the google image search facility and see if any of the above gets you any closer with relevant search terms e.g. english lever 1897.
  18. Hello, I recently serviced Seiko 7009 with 7S26 movement. Watch was general in poor condition, movement was dirty and there was no oil on jewels. Timegrapher had dificculty to read the amplitude and beat error but visually amplitude was very low. I took it on my bench, cleaned and oiled with Novostar B oil. After that amplitude wasn't satisfactory circa 200deg. I read on net that this movement has generaly problem with amplitude. Besides it get quite good accuracy I could leave it but... I took a look of the balance hairspring - little bented and I think there could be problem. I don't have too much experience and skills with work on the hairspring but I tried to get it better shape. It took me almost 2 hours and I had to take off the hairspring few times. It's not perfect shaped hairspring now but it's better then it was. After that I put the movement on the time machine, look guys what I managed to achieve. Glass up Glass down I think it's quite good right now. I decided to leave it at this moment. What do You think? Is the Novostar B is right oil for this caliber for everywhere use? Should pallet fork jewels be lubricated or only the pallets? I'm looking forward Your opinion cause I am a beginner and aprecciate good advices. Thanks
  19. Hi Mike and welcome to the happy factory,
  20. Think your option is a better choice. I only search 7S26 and found that it had the same number. But as you say the C is the movement that is closest to the NH35 .
  21. Barrel and center wheel are different across A, B and C versions, details on my sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRN2UULQKTfKmhRStZhDdIOIQrqd6sPB-g6x2SKyQQjOvTBjG_7TQXQhAT4f1WqAX5QAPkIimi-3jqd/pubhtml I think only the C version is interchangeable with the NH3x. I am ready to send one to Giuseppe, but if he wants to buy from Cousins I suggest that for 15 pounds more he gets a complete new mov't, and use the current one for practice, resell or even build a custom watch.
  22. Perfect!!! I was searching under NH35A. They indeed have it. £16.90. I will order then. Thanks a lot!
  23. welcome to the best forum. judgeing by some of our posts; we can use an egineer. vin
  24. Have you search Langendorf ? Have some Lanco parts . But not sure i have 1027. . Can have a look. If so i PM Have a 1127 . That should have the same setting lever?
  25. Cousinsuk has it . Often the 0 isn't used when seaching seiko parts . i looked at 7S26 movement . That uses the same barrel. And you are not alone. Did the same on my first 7005 Seiko . Have the same construction. Have barrels if you need.
  26. NOT TO WORRY; it is a problem caused by the internet. and authors. like "crown gear" or castle gear or "hunting case" or just "hunter". we can live with it. vin p.s. i like the above posted "time zone watch school" closssory. spelling is also a problem with the older guys.
  27. Hi Mike, Welcome to WRT forum.
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