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  2. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. No nothing like that. Here we all try and help members, so enjoy this forum.
  3. Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.
  4. Today
  5. Hence my posting, to "visually" support what you said and to give VW a hold-on-to "handle"
  6. FLwatchguy73 - By no means am I an authority on the Luch Electromechanical, but if you check out this thread on the WatchUSeek forum, there’s some useful info: https://forums.watchuseek.com/f10/luch-3055-opinions-discussions-2700305.html it’s definitely a fascinating model, and I really like the styling. But they can also be stubborn and quirky. If you get a good one, great! Otherwise you’re looking at a project and a learning experience. Fortunately I like learning, and I can be stubborn too. When I was an IT support guy for our local school district, my motto was “Numquam apparatus esse victor...” essentially, “Never let the machine win.” That applies equally to PCs and weird old watches. ;-) Gryf
  7. Hello I'm just started learning about watch repair for hobby, very happy to found this group
  8. I'll start off the 1st one. This my Waltham 12s pocket watch. Beautiful white gold case. Fully jewelled. I was a non working watch which I got for a bargain from ebay. I found that the mainspring was broken. I temporarily fixed it by annealing the end of the mainspring, drilling a hole for the catch and shaping it to fit the barrel arbor. It worked fine. So I proceeded to clean it while I went to order a new mainspring for it. Somehow I got distracted and forgot it was still soaking in my ultrasound. By the time I remembered, the shellac from the pallet stones had disintegrated.
  9. That is a drawback to having guns. They do frown on one for using them!
  10. I'm sure all of us have a watch that we have put off completing the repair. The "One day I'll get to it" watch. It is usually a watch early in our career/hobby. The one that was beyond our abilities at that time. The one that required a special tool that we didn't have. The one that requires a replacement part that is as rare as "unicorn poo". Amid the Covid 19 lockdown in so many countries, now is the best time to revisit these projects that we have put off for so long.
  11. Yesterday
  12. Hey Thanks guys. I ordered from ofrei. Cheers gary
  13. One more part to come... http:// ETA 7750: Part 3 - Reassembly: Escapement Lubrication, Chrono Bridge, Automatic Bridge, Motion Work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Thank you. Glad to be part of a watch forum at last. I hope this isn't a place with cantankerous opinions about things that are mere preferences... like the best watch ever made (the one on my wrist), where watches should be made (wherever makes a good watch affordable to me), and the relative airspeed velocity of an African sparrow...
  15. I will definitely leave the originals as-is but I may use replacement that are less oxidized. Not sure where to source the proper size though. Blueing is a skill that is far away for me haha.
  16. Thanks! I’m glad to hear this may be salvageable. It’s 35mm for those who are wondering. Hopefully none of the screws are rusted to the point where they are seized.
  17. Ran into this once myself. I opted to use the screw without the clamp and figure out how deep to screw it in based on how far the caseback needed to close. With one watch, the case screws were to broad at the head so I had to file them flat on one side of the round head rim to make something looking like a D instead of an O. It worked, and I have been satisfied with the results. I learned this from casing instructions for a skeletonized movement in a regular case with no dial. The case screws are different in length and head diameter than the clamp screws that I have seen. They will likely accompany the movement if it came in a pocket watch case but mave have to be ordered otherwise. just depends on how high the screw you have will stand above the movement to make contact with the caseback's inside rim.
  18. Agreed. Nothing wrong with knowing the time during a casual swim for example
  19. Somewhere in the universe there should be a cross reference guide for Omega that explains how you're supposed to modify the numbers to find things. So as noted above by canthus I have more or less the same link below. Then with the crystal number I found some additional specifications for the crystal. Also found another seller selling the crystal at the second link.. 063PZ5315 | GLASS PLEXI ST RING GLASS PLEXI ST RING REF :063PZ5315 063 DIAMETER D1 :29.62 MM 063 EYEGLASS :WIHTOUT 063 HEIGHT TOTAL H1 :3.60 MM 063 PROFILE :CONCAVE 063 SHAPE :ROUND 063 TYPE :ETANCHE http://www.ofrei.com/page_168.html https://timeconnectioninc.com/crystals/2329-omega-crystal-063pz5315.html
  20. A bit of Googlefoo suggests that the Kered is a French brand that used movements from a variety of makers. Yours I reckon houses a Duromat 25 or 26 jewel auto which is a variation on a Durowe 7520. The Sekonda is almost certainly a 2609.HA, bullet proof and potentially quite capable once serviced. Not a bad haul at all for the money.
  21. I would leave the hands as-is unless you are skilled and blueing.
  22. Don't bother trying to fit a generic crystal on the Cosmic front-loader cases. You'll end up with it not mating with the case and dial correctly. Get the correct part.
  23. In Endeavour's drawing, look at Fig. 4 "depth of lock" which refers to one of the aspects which I was talking about.
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