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Shock Spring for Bulova 11 AL


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Hey all. New to the forum and to watch repair.

I'm working on reviving a 1965 Bulova 11 AL. It was not running when I got it, and after a clean and oil, it's now running pretty strong*. However, in the process of stripping it down, I did break the shock spring on the mainplate. I was lucky enough to find a replacement on eBay, which is on its way, but as I did a test on a similar one, I ended up breaking it on removal. So, I'm obviously not very good with the things. I've attached photos of where the eventual one will go, as well as a photo of what I bought (spring in tact).

Any advice on the best way to remove and then install these? Any help is appreciated.

* I say running strong, only when facing up, as the lack of stone (which I still have) on the other side keeps the balance from spinning when upside down.

Thanks,
Seth

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You can buy proper tools for this type of work. If you have a good cleaning machine in many cases, it is not necessary to take them apart.

I expect some on here will be very eager to criticise my info.   :D

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Thanks OH and Rogart63. I think the decision I will have to make is whether it's easier/safer to try to remove the spring from the donor mainplate and then install it in my watch, or just swap everything over to the donor. I'd prefer to just swap the spring, but after breaking two of them, I'm a little nervous.

Thanks for the other thread. I did indeed see that, it just didn't give any master tips for removal. Probably because there aren't any master tips. But the covering in film/rodico for installation is helpful, as is your graphic for removal.

As for cleaning, I can't afford the space or money for a cleaner, so am doing things by hand. Hopefully next time I can just get the stone out for cleaning without breaking the spring or needing to remove it completely, which is obviously a pain.

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I wanted to follow up that I successfully removed the spring from the donor plate and got it installed in my Bulova. It's now running whichever way it's facing and I'm quite pleased. Thanks for the help here. I also found this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiAh4TkN25s

Which was a huge help, mostly in giving me the confidence that it wasn't impossible. It definitely was trickier for me, but I got it in:

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I did employ the technique that I found elsewhere here to lay a layer of cling wrap between me and the movement to prevent a fly away spring. It ended up not being necessary, but made me feel a lot more confident.

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Well done Seth. Trading via this site is not permitted, but if you are in the uk and advertise the remainder of your donor movement on ebay, you might find that someone would buy it to obtain a clutch wheel :-)

Is it a trade if I just give it to you? DM me your address if that's not a violation. Unfortunately, however, I'm in the U.S., so you'll have to wait for me to get an international stamp, plus travel time.

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    • Just a note for those who come searching for information on this topic in the future.  I did eventually find the Mark's video on how to replace these springs, as someone observed, he does in fact make the replacement look easy.  (It actually is relatively easy once you have the knack of it.) If you're enrolled in one of Mark's online courses, the demonstration of how to replace this spring is in the Bonus Videos section of his course site, and is called "C2B1 – Sea-Gull Style Shock Springs".
    • If the metal was twice as thick, it wouldn't snap so easily.  The thickness is governed by the space available so you can't use thicker metal.  If you glued two pieces together, the likelihood of snapping would be reduced.  That's my theory anyway, could be wrong. 
    • there are various approaches to learning watch repair. A lot of people want to jump right in and every single watches something to be repaired restored. But other times like this it's disposable it's here for you to learn and when you're through learning you throw it away. yes you definitely should try this you have a learning movement you need to learn and the best way to learn is by doing something.
    • Sorry, the friction will be so great that the wheel will barely turn, if the movement will start at all, the amplitude will be verry lo.
    • If I can’t re-pivot the wheel, the logical thing to do is to descend the pivot hole.  Plan is to either stick a suitably sized hole jewel (from a barrel bridge or something) or fashion a blob of epoxy on the underside of the escape wheel cock so the wheel sits on its one pivot on the base plate and the staff with the broken off pivot (which I’ll polish as best as I can) becomes the upper pivot. As long as it doesn’t foul the 4th wheel it should work? I know it’s a bodge job, and if this were a rare movement, or belonged to someone else I would not do this. I’m just interested to see if I can get the thing to run. 
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