Jump to content

Broken fixed pin link ?


Recommended Posts

Hi new here so a big Hellow to you all and hopefully I can get enough advice to help me get my sons watch fixed !!! the watch is a Scuderia ferrari 2 tone s/s watch strap / black face. cut a long story short the watch was dropped from the fifth floor level off our hotel in Ibiza a few weeks back ! anyway found the watch which had only a snapped strap and the second hand had stopped working. so okay looking at the strap I thought it would be a simple case off removing a link ( broken one ) and just having the strap slightly shorter which would not have been a problem , unfortunately the link that broke was was one off the non removable ones on the strap ie fixed pin type. the pins have snapped so they are flush within the sides off the link and so cant be pulled out.. what now ? is there any way off removing these broken fixed pins ? 

any help / advice would be very much appreciatted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Hi new here so a big Hellow to you all and hopefully I can get enough advice to help me get my sons watch fixed !!! the watch is a Scuderia ferrari 2 tone s/s watch strap / black face. cut a long story short the watch was dropped from the fifth floor level off our hotel in Ibiza a few weeks back ! anyway found the watch which had only a snapped strap and the second hand had stopped working. so okay looking at the strap I thought it would be a simple case off removing a link ( broken one ) and just having the strap slightly shorter which would not have been a problem , unfortunately the link that broke was was one off the non removable ones on the strap ie fixed pin type. the pins have snapped so they are flush within the sides off the link and so cant be pulled out.. what now ? is there any way off removing these broken fixed pins ? 

any help / advice would be very much appreciatted.

Pics are required for help. The biggest issue is the watch has stopped & this should be the first issue to be addressed. If the strap can not be fixed a new one should not be to difficult to source and fit. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the welcome guys, okay pics attached. in answer to the last reply can live with the second hand not sweeping, the hour / minute hands are working fine which I am okay about considering we thought the watch was going to be in several pieces / smashed screen etc !!  could replace the strap just wondered if there was a way off keeping the original and removing this fixed pin link ? 

watch1.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay thanks watch is no longer made so guess its just acase off getting a similiar size / style strap !

pity I thought there may have been a tool that would remove the broken pins but guess they may be in there for good !!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the watch isn't running properly, there is no point in fixing the bracelet. Do you know what movement (miyota, rhonda, ETA) is inside? The best bet is to replace it. One can be ordered from any watch parts house for about $20. If you really must try to fix the bracalet, You will have to find a few donor links. The short piece can be removed from the lug and then you'd have to remove two pieces from the long end. It might be easier to simply replace the bracelet with a similar one.
JC

Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bracelet looks like an easy repair to me. Use bracelet pliers or a hammer and a pin punch to drive the broken pin from the narrow part of the broken link. Then find a sting bar to replace the pin. You may need to drill out the hole to take the spring bar. Ensure there is no debris in the larger part of the link. With a spring bar fitted in the narrow part, depress the spring bar ends and manoeuvre into the larger part. This may take patience and bionic fingers.

Cheers Neil

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The bracelet looks like an easy repair to me. Use bracelet pliers or a hammer and a pin punch to drive the broken pin from the narrow part of the broken link. Then find a sting bar to replace the pin. You may need to drill out the hole to take the spring bar. Ensure there is no debris in the larger part of the link. With a spring bar fitted in the narrow part, depress the spring bar ends and manoeuvre into the larger part. This may take patience and bionic fingers.
Cheers Neil
 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

That's no easy fix, then! [emoji375]

Sent from my SM-G925T using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

???
Nothing difficult in what I suggested. 10-15 minutes work.
Or were you being ironic?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ironic. Since he is new to the forum, I don't think @jono400 has those tools (bracelet pliers, extra spring bar, dremel drill with microbit, etc), so it wouldn't be any easy fix without them. 

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi again guys sorry not been around to acknowledge all your kind replies but again a big thank you anyway. do have one off those cheap Chinese watch strap repair kits so got the basic tools. 

noirrac1j - Thank also for your kind advice, sorry not sure if I am following you correctly ?! the broken pin is still within both ends off the strap ie. there is a small length left in each side plus the bit in the centre on the other side off the strap, appreciate I could knock or dremel the centre pin out but not sure how I would go about getting the two other broken bits out as obviously there is no where for them to go by using the punch on these ? would a Dremel with micropunch Break up the two bits off pin remaking enough to replace with the new spring pin ? as I say they have broken flush so no pliers or whatever would be able to pull them out . sorry as a newcomer possibly missing something obvious to which I appoligies ??!!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Jono,

I think this isn't such an easy repair, but you can try to drill through the link with the two broken plugs with a small drill bit...the problem will be that the material is stainless steel and the drill bit may get hot and break before the hole is drilled. After that, use a slightly larger drill bit to drill through the other link and get a small spring bar with the ends that are same size as the holes....after that you have to try to squeeze the spring bar ends in place.

J

 

P.S.

http://watchfix.info/Bracelet Repairs/Drilling Pins Out.php

59556de9d8790_watchbraceletrepair.jpg.85f046a6c280d30bdd8305a9e3c746ba.jpg

Edited by noirrac1j
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

My apologies. I regard myself as an inexperienced beginner, especially when I read of the heroic deeds of others posting on here. But I must have learned a few things and gained a few tools along the way.

From your last explanation, Jono, it's not such an easy repair. The pieces of the pin still lodged in the out part of the link were probably pressed in an the ends polished flat. You may be able to punch these out. But it's getting to be a lot of work for a bracelet not worth much. On the other hand it's good practice!

Good luck whatever you decide.

Cheers Neil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys will with your help keep at this just a bit longer before replacing the strap ! okay have now cut thru the last link and removed what was left which as you will see from the picture leaves two protruding pins one each side, tried carefully pulling on the pins with plyers but neither side was  for moving so instead off keeping at it and no doubt snapping one off the pins and being back to square one again !! I thought Iwould stop and see if there was any suggestions on here on what could possibly be used to remove the remainder off each pin ? would some sort off oil loosen the pins to make extraction easier ?

cheers,

john

 

 

image.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay thanks appreciatte your reply, unfortunately we are talking about one off the fixed / secured links not one off the push in / push out type that are on the majority off the strap ( there is no hole at the side off the strap like the other links to simply push out the pin   ) as I say in an ideal world would simply pull out the remaining pin on each side with plyers unfortunately it does not want to easily come out and again dont want to risk snapping one off the pins taking me back to square one again !!

 

just wondered if anyone had sucusfully managed to remove a fixed link pin broken like my picture above ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Okay thanks appreciatte your reply, unfortunately we are talking about one off the fixed / secured links not one off the push in / push out type that are on the majority off the strap ( there is no hole at the side off the strap like the other links to simply push out the pin )

The hole is there, but covered with a polished cap. Removing it and/or the pin stumps may be indeed quite difficult, e.g. fabricating special tools, drilling, etc. If you like the watch much I suggest you consider wearing it with a strap.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's a tip that sometimes works.

Put the watch somewhere cool for an hour or so- not the fridge just noticeably less than room temperature.

Then breathe gently on the area where the end of the pin must be. Because the pin and the bracelet are different pieces of metal the condensation pattern will be different (if it works!)

Mark the centre of the pin with a centre punch or a hardened nail. Then you have a chance of driving or drilling out the pin.

If that fails at least you now know how to tell where pieces of metal are joined. Amaze your friends and treat yourself to a new watch.

[emoji41][emoji851][emoji41]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry guys been away for a while and away from computer. again appreciate the continuing replies. unfortunately still no joy with removing the pins. guess it's a new strap, pity as honestly thought I would have got it in the end ??!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello everybody, sorry for the late reply. Thank you all so much for your help and your tips. I got lucky and found a replacement wheel bridge for cheap which actually ended up being in decent condition. I decided not to do anything about the mainspring barrel pivot since I didn't have the right tools and the barrel didn't have much endshake anyhow. I am happy to report that the watch now runs great, I have regulated it to about +-10/s day which is fine by my standards. The timegrapher result looks decent as well, although beat error is around 0.6ms which could be better I suppose. Amplitude reaches over 230 quite consistently which I'm happy with also. My lighter fluid has also been replaced by balance spring cleaning solution and now the springs don't stick to themselves anymore - who would have thought. I'm super happy with this watch, it might not be worth a whole lot but it's awesome that I could restore it and it makes me wear it with pride. To me it's a genuinely good lucking watch, it'll be my daily driver for a while. Thanks again to everybody for their input! I couldn't have done the repair without your help.   Here are some images for those interested, the bracelet isn't original but I don't really mind:    
    • Balance-hairspring system is oscillator with big Q-factor. When all in the movement is OK, the rate (frequency) is verry close to the own resonant frequency of the balance-hairspring. But in some cases, the movement (with foult) will force the resonator to work on pritty different frequency, sometimes faster, and sometimes slower. When this happens, the amplitude is always weak. So, the first thing to ask is what is the amplitude. If it is more than 180 and the hairspring doesn't touch itself and anything else, then for sure it is 'short'. If the amplitude is weak, then the first thing to do is to understand why and rectify the problem. At this time no point to check timekeeping. But, if one doubts that the hairspring is not correct, then He needs to calcullate the rate of the movement, then to 'vibrate' the balance-hairspring out of the movement and to measure the free oscillations frequency (period) with timer in order to ensure that they comply with the rate. If we have pictures, then it will be easier to tell something about that wheel.
    • So much work has gone into this! Thanks again @Jon. I will go back and check my adjustments from last weekend. A few questions for you, if you don't mind. In the reset position, I can understand the problem if the gap between the hammer and the minute counter heart is too big (slide 77) but what is bad about both hammers being in contact with the cams (slide 76)? I read somewhere that Landeron recommended grease on the runner cam, but the minute counter heart should be dry. Is that so, and why? How many tads in a ligne?
    • Could you glue two pieces together for rigidity and separate after forming? 
×
×
  • Create New...