Jump to content

My newest work space...I have to quit moving!


DJW

Recommended Posts

Since I joined this forum I've moved half a dozen times. Each time I have to fit what I have to work on watches and whatever little space that's available. This time I'm in the smallest place yet (460sqft.) but have the perfect little niche in the corner for all of my watch making tools, supplies, books, Etc. All that and a South facing window B) plus, I can keep an eye on my beloved car that sits right in front of that window:biggrin:

IMG_20170609_175554024_HDR.jpg

IMG_20170609_175522593_HDR.jpg

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

A nice light room even if its small. The L & R varimatic is the best cleaning machine I ever had.How do you manage to work on your lathe tucked in that corner with all the other stuff around.

It's tight, but not terrible. It may not look it, but there is just enough room to sit comfortably at the lathe..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

By the way, what's the tool in the back left corner of the bench?

I think you're asking about my plastic Crystal lift/compressor? I don't use it that often, but it's nice to have if I have a very tight plastic Crystal to install..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 I'm very excited to pick up an L&R on Monday and graduate from my jewelry cleaner

 

The only issue I've had with this machine is the seals drying out. There is a place online where I could buy new ones, but as long as I leave it in the down position with no load on the hydraulic system I don't have a problem with fluid leaking out of the reservoir. 

After the machine completes the drying cycle the hydraulic ram lifts the head up about three or four inches so that you can remove the basket with the watch components. This is the final position that the watch cleaning machine ends it cycle. The problem with this position is that the hydraulic pressure keeps it at this elevated position. There is a spring inside the shaft that constantly pulls the head back down towards the machine itself. So therefore there is a constant positive pressure on the hydraulic system. If you have leaky seals like I do in my machine, it will slowly bleed off fluid out of the seals until the head drops all the way down back into the drying position. Because I turn it off at near the end of the drying position the hydraulic system is not under load and I don't lose any fluid. I would recommend keeping your machine in this position as well as there is no stress on the hydraulic system or seals...

When you want to clean a new watch, all you have to do is turn the machine on and the head will lift up to the final position at that point. Then you can attach your basket and press start and off you go. You just have to remember to turn off the machine during the drying cycle so it stays in that position. If you forget and it right raises up to the final point I just cycle all the way through back around to the drying cycle and then shut it off then.. obviously with the basket removed so that my freshly cleaned and dried watch Parts don't get a quick bath!:wacko:

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

how is the weather in Seattle?

It's been beautiful lately! Hot as hell on Sunday..93 degrees:blink:...After the winter we had, I'll take it. We broke a record for rain- 45 inches from October 2016-April 2017...Geez!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm sure you will get help on here soon.  Kkramme we like new members to make an introduction before posting. A little about your self such as where you life and what got you interested in Horology  
    • I'd be grateful for recommendations of good sources of advice on getting clocks with balance spring - as opposed to pendulum - escapements 'in beat'.....
    • Well I am in a bit of a quandary. I can't find the correct colour for the dial. I even wrote to Hettich a while back hoping they would give me the colour code for the dial. The reply that I received was "We don't make those anymore." I am thinking now to silver the dial and use a water transfer decal to put minute markers and the HETTICH logo (which is the very font that this forum uses) and the Made in Germany down the bottom. Not sure of the success rate of the water transfer method, but I have no other solution for the markers and logo. Handpainting is just not an option. In trying to get the top piece of the clock polished, it has progressively lost its sharp edges. My stupid hamfisted effort. I am thinking of purchasing a replacement piece of brass and drilling new holes in it for the corner posts. Why I attempted to repolish using wet & dry and not simply using a paint remover to remove the old lacquer from the brass, I don't know. You whistle and I'll point at the idiot. I also need to purchase some sheet spring steel as the two small ratchet springs that arrest the wheel that supports the weight after it is lifted by the electromagnet are worn. The two from the donor clock that I purchased are worse. I am hoping that I will be able to manufacture new springs without having to fiddle about with tempering etc to the steel. I have some ideas on that front. How many things until the clock is no longer the original? Like an axe. Heard a woodchopper on tv once saying that he had replaced the head on his axe twice and the handle three times, but it was the same axe that he began woodchopping with. 😉 I must post more often or read back through what I have previously written. Keep repeating myself. Sigh.
    • I use the exact OD and it fits in with a little force and a pleasing 'click' so it's snug and wont rotate within the holder, but that depends on how you have set up and calibrated your printer so you may need to play with the settings/dimensions a little to allow for any discrepancies in your printer calibration. PS I just finished (2 days ago) a new revision which automatically prints the movement OD on the bottom of the holder, I'll see if I can upload it here Here is rev 4 remember to change the .pdf to .FCStd so it will open in FreeCAD - also you may need to install the LiberationSansBold font and tell FreeCAD where it lives on your PC, or change the font to something you already have on your system. Para Movement Holder V4.pdf Examples below:
    • Only someone on this forum would ever understand the Oooooo I just did
×
×
  • Create New...