Jump to content

Seagull movement repair


Recommended Posts

In many cases Chinese mov.t can't be repaired becase lack of spare parts. And professional often refuse to work on them for this reason and few more. Unfortunately in yhid case the original Seagull mov.t is quite expensive, so you are not in the best position to have your watch repaired.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

In many cases Chinese mov.t can't be repaired becase lack of spare parts. And professional often refuse to work on them for this reason and few more. Unfortunately in yhid case the original Seagull mov.t is quite expensive, so you are not in the best position to have your watch repaired.

Depends what is expensive? A seagull ST2130 cost $92 on ebay. think you can find it cheaper maybe? Compared to a ETA 2824-2 i think it's fairly cheap? A service would cost a lot more then $92? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Depends what is expensive? A seagull ST2130 cost $92 on ebay. think you can find it cheaper maybe? Compared to a ETA 2824-2 i think it's fairly cheap? A service would cost a lot more then $92? 

Yes, it's cheap compared to the overpriced ETA, but expensive compared to an equivalent Seiko or Miyota mechanical, or to most quartz movements.

We don't know if the watch needs repair as the OP said, or just service. Owners of cheap watches can indefinitely postpone the latter, but a repair which costs more than a new watch leaves them with the dilemma.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

In the past I have simply checked over and replaced with new movements. By explaining the situation to a customer they usually understand. 

Maybe as time goes by and more brands use these movements (then watch the price increase!)  A proper after-sales network will be set up allowing for replacing parts.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Theoretically, the ST2130 and the ETA 2824 have parts that are interchangeable, so it shouldn't be to difficult to have it serviced and to have parts replaced... Problem you may have is finding a watchmaker willing to take a chance on servicing it and sourcing parts for a ETA 2824 and "Hoping they fit". A new movement will definitely be a less expensive option, but some folks like to keep their watches all original and service the existing movements. 

One thing I think a number of people forget, or don't take into account, is that any mechanical timepiece will need service at some point. And it's not going to be inexpensive. Especially if its done by a trained watchmaker. They have to make a living too!:biggrin:

And, I prefer the term "Less Expensive" watch as opposed to "Cheap" ... And, i would not assume because someone chooses to buy a less expensive timepiece that they automatically choose not to pay to have it properly serviced. Yes, at some point there is a dilemma of paying more for a service than the watch may be worth or just swapping out a movement, but the owner may have an emotional attachment to that watch and may want to keep it as original as possible and in good working order. So they may choose to spend more money than it may be "Worth" to repair or service it..

Sorry for rambling...:unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 And, i would not assume because someone chooses to buy a less expensive timepiece that they automatically choose not to pay to have it properly serviced.

I couldn't agree more. The vast majority of the watches that I rescue, service, ressurect or whatever are "less expensive" watches picked up at boot sales or from eBay. Things like Sekondas and Caravells which were aimed fair and square at the budget end of the market. It always amuses me when I find a greater number of service marks and codes in these watches than I do in the more expensive examples that come my way.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I couldn't agree more. The vast majority of the watches that I rescue, service, ressurect or whatever are "less expensive" watches picked up at boot sales or from eBay. Things like Sekondas and Caravells which were aimed fair and square at the budget end of the market. It always amuses me when I find a greater number of service marks and codes in these watches than I do in the more expensive examples that come my way.

I think the marks are from the time when mechanical watches were the pretty much the only alternative, and maintaining objects was about 100 times more valued than now. And the other reasons is that they broke more often than the quality ones.

Anyway, the single post count OP appears to have lost interest by now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also factor in that there were way more watchmakers about, they were quick and (mostly) good. but their prices had to be super-competitive so it wouldn't have been an expensive proposition to repair a modestly priced watch. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chinese watches.

Poor quality steel, screws that break and springs that don't. They also rust. Movement spacers made of cheap plastic which did not hold the watch properly.

The poor steel was also present in watch bracelets where the links were stainless steel but the pins were iron resulted in frozen links and caused bracelets to break.

My experience with them was more than 10 years ago but the experience has made me avoid them when I could.

The last one I looked at had a clone Miyota. Quality seemed acceptable to the extent that I was wondering if it was a licensed copy made in China. Not marked Miyota though.

Anilv

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

Chinese watches.

Always worth to mention for the casual reader that not all Chinese watches and movements are in the same league. For example the leader Seagull makes good movements, both in terms of design and execution, in some cases more expensive than Japanese. However they grade them and keep the best ones for the watches they produce themselves.

And then there are the complete watches and movements that they make for the European brands, legally or not. These are also very good.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've remained silent on this thread, and at the risk of upsetting everyone, the thing that worries me the most the the apparent absence of Mark. The moderators do a great job and the members also pitch in, and the site seems to run itself, but it is a concern for the future of this forum when the owner is absent for all intents and purposes. Like many of the comments above I would hate to log in one day and things be closed down as I rely on this site for ideas and knowledge and also cheer me up. maybe the Moderators could reach out to him, assuming he does not read this thread, and express our concerns and let us know the plans going forward? some kind of WRT ark
    • That was the exact reason for me starting this thread watchie. Still we haven't worked out how the regulars are going to hook up if it goes tits up. I honestly think something should be arranged to stay in contact, we all help each other so much. 
    • Yeah ive watched that a few times before,  i couldnt find my old school dividers to scribe it up 😅 Yep thats the guy i bought a roll from . Thanks Nicklesilver that answers that perfectly and more or less what i thought an experiment over time would prove . The jumper arm is quite thick along its length, i left it that way intentionally, i thought the original was probably very thin, i didnt see that it was already missing. Setting isn't particularly stiff as such just positive, i still need to take it out and polish where it mates with the stem release. 
    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
×
×
  • Create New...