Jump to content

Hamilton Pocket Watch - broken mainspring


Recommended Posts

Hi

I am working on a Hamilton pocket watch with a broken mainspring. I am wondering how to measure the spring so that I can get a replacement.

I'd imagine length, width and perhaps thickness as well as barrel diameter.

Any help I can get is welcome. 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll need the height, thickness and length of the spring plus the inside diameter of the mainspring barrel. 

Once you know this you can go to a site like Cousins UK (other parts suppliers are available!) to see if you can find a match: https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/mainsprings-by-size-watch-pocket

Mark has actually done a nice informative video available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZfFkv0FLX4

 

Edit: Stuart ... we must have been writing a reply at pretty much the same time as yours only appeared once I'd posted mine! :-)

Edited by WatchMaker
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, StuartBaker104 said:

Hi Dave,

To save me posting the same thing again, see here. 

If you know the movement type, you can use the search tools on Cousins website, and they also have the GR catalogue scanned in there.

If you put the model no or serial numbers down I will look in my book and give you all the dimensions.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for your help.

I'll have a look at the Waltham reply.

It is a Hamilton 925 and I've found a short video regarding replacing the pallet fork but it would be nice if there was a complete strip-down video of it somewhere. I'm not sure how I should proceed with removing the balance assembly for one thing. The watch need to be dismantled so that it can be cleaned and lubricated.

Again, thank you for your help.

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave, if you have snags finding the exact size mainspring as I did on an old pocketwatch not so long ago I was given some advice of going abit smaller on different measurements of the spring, I will try to find the post as it was on this forum, basically I think I went a tad smaller on one measurement and although not the exact size works perfectly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good to know, thank you. As long as the T ends fit I guess the spring could be shorter.

I was wondering about lubricants as well. Would D5 and grease used for a wrist watch work? Can the train pivots be lubricated with 9020 or even 9010 and the pallet jewels/escape wheel with something even less viscous?  

I don't think the watch will be used every day so I don't think it'll get high wear. 

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dave,

There is a table in this link http://www.m-p.co.uk/muk/acrobat/hse/moebius-hs-sheets/moebius-specsbook.pdf which shows the recommendations from moebius, but many will have their own opinions on the topic.

The bhi lubrication guide is also helpful http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a bit tricky getting the pallet fork into the opening where it engages with the balance wheel.

I lucked out with all the other wheels. All the pivots went in their respective holes. One good thing is that there is lots of room to fiddle with things and I got a good tip regarding making a small forked tool with pegwood to guide the pivots.

I ordered the spring - just waiting for it. I look forward to having it going again.

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bit confused there... you should fit the pallet fork before the balance wheel.

I may be teaching grandma to suck eggs but... To be sure that everything is running freely, normally you would fit each wheel on its own and make sure it turns smoothly, then fit the train wheels together with the barrel. With one click on the mainspring you should see the train wheels turn freely and then recoil - again this tells you that everything is running freely. Then fit the pallet fork and give the mainspring a turn... the pallet should flick back and forth with a small nudge.  When you fit the balance, align the roller jewel with the pallet fork, then align the balance cock with its alignment pins. The balance should spring in to life and then you will know that you are not doing any dmaage as you tighten the balance cock screw. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a good video on YouTube re the Hamilton 925. There is a neat way of replacing the pallet fork in the video using painter's tape.

Just go to the YouTube site and put this suffix in after com.

I put it together the other way around because that's how someone taught me to do it. I think this is a good way to do it as well but both ways need a little patience lining things up.

/watch?v=81yo_cwdBkU

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/2/2017 at 1:10 PM, Folkvisor said:

There is a good video on YouTube re the Hamilton 925. There is a neat way of replacing the pallet fork in the video using painter's tape.

Just go to the YouTube site and put this suffix in after com.

I put it together the other way around because that's how someone taught me to do it. I think this is a good way to do it as well but both ways need a little patience lining things up.

/watch?v=81yo_cwdBkU

I like the wooden screwdrivers he uses in the video :unsure: The other pegwood tools look handy, too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, I made a pegwood screwdriver as well; since I was working on a friend's watch and didn't want to scratch it.

I also like the idea of backing off a screw until it clicks into place. I've always done that with screws that go into wood on a piano but I've never done it on a watch. I think it's a good idea for larger screws but, with screws as big as a speck of dust, I'm just glad to get them in...

I'm still waiting for a mainspring for it but the watch works if you put pressure on the wheel so I just hope I can fit a new mainspring without incident. I've never done it before...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎28‎/‎04‎/‎2017 at 6:45 PM, Folkvisor said:

Hi

I am working on a Hamilton pocket watch with a broken mainspring. I am wondering how to measure the spring so that I can get a replacement.

I'd imagine length, width and perhaps thickness as well as barrel diameter.

Any help I can get is welcome. 

Dave

sorry Dave for taking so long but I have been away

 

WP_20170504_21_07_43_Pro.thumb.jpg.6ba26c381d1e71d46408184199686cf5.jpgWP_20170504_21_08_15_Pro.thumb.jpg.e1f2594aa57d745223ea64cf6fbf4564.jpgWP_20170504_21_10_20_Pro.thumb.jpg.2d9197dc6785483ca4a50313c96bca38.jpg

is this any use to you

cheers kaz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the spring but the cleat on the barrel arbour is being stubborn about grabbing the end of the spring. I am bending the spring slightly so it will 'hug' the arbour and I think I've almost got it convinced.

Also, it looks like I may need to file the hole in the top plate of the barrel a little so that the T will fit better. 

Replacing the barrel wheel is going to be fun too...

Always something but never boring.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
    • Hi! I am in the process of restoring a rado captain cook mkII. I want to remove the rotor, but I am not sure how to and need some help. As you can hopefully see on the photo there are 2 screws. The left one has two positions, the right one looks like a regular screw. I have tried turning the right one, but it does not give even after using more force than I would expect. Anyone know the function of the left screw with the two positions and how to remove the rotor? Thanks!!
    • Welcome to the group Stirky. You can search for just about every subject in the craft here. Don't be afraid to ask if you can't find the answer that may have already been covered ( some ad nauseum LOL ). You don't have to buy Bergeon to get good quality. There are many decent mid-range tools available that will last you a lifetime. Cousins would be a good place to start . Cheers from across the pond ! Randy
×
×
  • Create New...