Jump to content

Citizen tube replacement


Recommended Posts

By any chance have any of you guys replaced a Citizen watch tube. It is a diver case No. 824164 fitted with a 8200A movement.

I have refurbished this watch and thought a new crown would resolve the poor fitting but of close inspection the tube thread is knackered.
I have read they are soldered in which is a real problem (I think) anyway see pics.

New & old crown

IMG_1213.thumb.jpg.5a4f9cc4d0523d69dca4d3c402b3bdf6.jpg

Tube that need replacing

IMG_1227.thumb.jpg.667399bad8c157b108ea44b5806fc8af.jpgIMG_1225.thumb.jpg.32209ffa20c1c6b2ec5afe0f0283b7a3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, clockboy said:

Thanks pushing the old one out is going to be a real challenge I have no ideas at present


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have just removed a tube from a scrap Citizen just by inserting a broach & twisting and it came out. However this blighter is different. I have looked at it closer with a microscope & it looks like the threaded part is inserted over a tube or the tube is threaded. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I can now give you a heads up on how these tubes are fitted & replaced. It was the most difficult job I have done in a long,long time. Despite a long time on the internet doing research I basically found nothing of any help. I received no help or advice from this forum or other forums apart from one bit of advice on another forum that suggested it was friction fit which was incorrect. 

So after a lot of experimenting and measuring with some scrap Citizen watches I found that the tubes are friction fitted to their standard watches BUT their Diver style watches to improve water resistance are a screw fit. I removed the old tube by putting a slit into the top of the old tube with a slitting file and twisting it out. 

Unfortunately with this watch a previous repairer had stripped the original case thread and had glued it in another tube and then packed it with a clear silicone. 

The Citizen diver style threads put in these cases only have a depth of 2mm. After a lot of thought & weighing up all the options I decided to try and tap the remainder of the case with a 3mm thread & screw in a longer crown tube that was 4mm long. The tap used had to have a 0.35 pitch not the usual 0.50 pitch for the tap to work and the hole required for the tap is 2.6mm. This proved to be another problem as the drills I purchased marked as 2.6m were actually only 2.52mm so I had to broach out some extra. 

HOWEVER despite this working fine on a scrap piece of metal I just could not get the thread to take in the watch case. I don,t know if it is because the case is a cast metal. I really don’t know why.

So plan B was to but a friction fit tube in but the problem I now faced was I had made the original hole bigger trying to tap the hole. So I fitted a friction fit tube & used Loctite 243 a micro seal at the top of the new tube. I then held it in place overnight to dry.

Unbelievably on test the case is actually watertight up to 5 bar. All I can say is I just got lucky and the loctite 243 really does do a lock & seal.

I am not 100% not happy with the result because I finished doing the same really as a previous repairer had done which is a bodge job which is not my style.

If I encounter this problem again I will just friction fit a tube and use the magic Loctite 243. If the original thread is OK then it would be a very simple job to just shorten a screw in tube and just fit.

See some pics  taken during repair

TUBE REMOVED

59104532390fb_tuberemoved1.thumb.jpg.23ee4187554888a8163f9a32509a9301.jpg

LIP ON THE CITIZEN REDUCES TUBE THREAD TO 2MM

591045d247ab5_Liptoreducedepthoftube2.thumb.jpg.6c47e53a6f3813e354d51c23a6a46587.jpg

FRICTION FIT TUBE HELD IN PLACE FOR 24 HRS.

59104600bc3b1_Tubeheldovernight3.thumb.jpg.da3d8a65002022c706c76d2c8ff389b5.jpg

WATERPROOF TESTED UP TO 5 BAR (50 METERS)

5910463221c62_watertested4.thumb.jpg.7326ce67bbefd1c932b7a5c861a51ca5.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...