Jump to content

Robert Roskell Pocket Watch - help with ID please


Wesley881

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I picked this up yesterday at an antique store for $30 US.  Parts are moving freely save for the balance, which has a bit of a wobble.  The movement looks to have gotten a healthy dose of penetrating oil, which the vendor may have applied to try and get it to work.  Doing some co**BLEEP** research on it, there are apparently plenty of fakes in circulation, but that's not my primary concern.  This is my first key wind PW, and it has some new attributes I've not been introduced to.  First, it has an anchor escapement, which I thought was more of a clock-specific type.  Second, the jewels are clear - glass?  Not sure.  And the count looks like 10 from the engraving on the case, so I'm assuming 5 pairs following the drive train to the balance wheel.  It was wound tight and I was able to relieve the mainspring.  Before I do any dismantling I wanted to present it to you folks and see if there is anything right off the bat that I should be aware of.  All in all, I think it's a nice addition to my collection, working or not, and it has plenty of character.  I think the 'C' marking on the case denotes export, it may have belonged to a William Somebody as there is a name inscribed on the inner case back.  Let me know what you think, I'm looking forward to learning more about this one!

Best,

C

20170403_050420.jpg

20170403_050435.jpg

20170403_050450.jpg

20170403_050520.jpg

20170403_050537.jpg

20170403_050604_001.jpg

20170403_050653_001.jpg

20170403_050743.jpg

20170403_050804.jpg

Inside_case.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

UPDATE: I dug around on the NAWCC Message Board and was able to find some tell-tale signs of a 'Swiss Fake' Robert Roskell, which were also confirmed by a watchmaker I reached out to yesterday.  

1. No markings on the plates whatsoever.

2. Spring winds clockwise

3. Name is engraved on the outside of the inner back casing instead of the movement.

That being said, it's mid-19th century curio that I now have the confidence to practice on.  Got the balance freed up last night and it looks like it will run fine with the correct-sized shim under the balance cock, maybe 5 layers of aluminum foil.  Definitely not a wasted expenditure for some new experience.  The silver case and chain polished up very nicely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

UPDATE II:

So I found that I didn't need a shim under the balance cock when I tore everything down.  I got to thinking about the 10 jewel engraving on the case and it seemed fishy...  If there are 5 pairs of pivots along the power train, what about the impulse jewel and the 2 caps?  That would make 13.  That's when I discovered the cap jewel had been knocked out of the cover on the bottom pivot of the balance.  To boot, the single screw holding the cover on was stripped (why not put two when there's plenty of room?  Poor design).  Given that this isn't a watch of extreme value, but worth getting running for my own education, I needed a solution that didn't involve drilling and tapping, or trying to set a new jewel in a worn out cover.  I suppose I could have reamed the cover and set a larger jewel, but that wouldn't solve the problem of having to add a screw to the other side of the cover and tap the existing hole larger.  Solution - Nail polish.  It's removable, won't be exposed to the sun and the flow during application can be controlled by how much alcohol you thin it with.  Pressing a cap jewel of comparable size out of a parts movement, I was able to set the jewel into the old hole after a little cleaning up.  From here I simply added some dots to the cover and set it in place.  Not the prettiest fix, nor a solution for a customer's family heirloom, but sometimes you have to 'run what you brung'.  Running somewhere around +10 s/d after 24 hours.  As a beginner, I'll chalk it up as a success.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • If frank says these bombè jewels are for balances and similar pivots then they are used cupped side facing the pivot and then capped i assume. In Nicklesilver's reply i guess that cup can also be reversed and used as an oil reservoir leaving the shoulder riding on a less frictioned domed surface. 🤷‍♂️ Hence the use of them on wheels closer to the escapement that have less torque requiring efforts to reduce friction and are also uncapped.
    • Looks that way, if it had any amount of significant jewel count it would say so on the dial.    Looks that way, if it had any amount of significant jewel count it would say so on the dial.  Same answer as Mike regarding the dial, its often just a slapped on name of a retailer but i thought you were way above this understanding Pete ?
    • Light naptha is what you need to be looking for. The carbon to hydrogen ratio is high with heavy naptha, it doesn't evaporate as well as light naptha and is prone to leaving more residue. Try tom's suggestion of the mirror test.
    • Its a big item Michael and a lot that could go wrong with the process of getting it to its new location. I once helped install one of these units into a conservatory that i had built. It was big and bloody heavy and took six of us to get it in safely. If you have sliding doors and you need to remove the whole frame then that may or may not go well. But i would advise getting a professional in if you have little knowledge on the installation of them. The glazing of the doors could well be 6mm laminated glass which again will be heavy very heavy if the glazing units are big. The glass would also need to be set up and packed correctly to open the doors properly more so if they are unframed and the sliders are upvc. Seems a shame but if no one is biting and that may be due to having no warranty i guess the only takers might be someone that installs them for a living and knows how to repair. If its fibreglass just be careful, i sometimes have to cut fibreglass baths out and they are nasty to work with . Thick gloves are definitely recommended,  not fun picking out fibreglass spells two days later that have started to go septic. Good luck with it all matey.
    • I don’t know anything about this product, however assuming you have it if you put a drop on a mirror or piece of glass lying flat on a table and leave it to evaporate if it leaves any sort of residue it is not really suitable for watch part cleaning.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...