Jump to content

Greetings from Norfolk!


egs92

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm Eddie, 24 years old and relatively new to watchmaking. Succinctly, I have aspirations of attending watchmaking school, and am generally here to begin learning new skills, and thus strengthen any application I make to a school in the future.

To date, my only experience lies with the assembly and disassembly of a Seagull ST36 (of which I confess I am struggling with the cannon pinion).

I immensley appreciate the content Mark Lovick produces for people such as myself, and look forward to speaking with other enthusiasts on the forum.

Kind regards,

Eddie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello, here you are just starting out on a very interesting profession and I wish you all the best. Me I've had my time and I'm retired. You will never stop learning there will always be something new. This is a very friendly forum and it has an abundance of info and many on here like to help. Photos are a great help if you can provide them with any problems you have with movements. We also have a section for those interested in clocks.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome aboard Eddie, I was where you are now a few years ago, its a very rewarding career, but can also be very unforgiving.  Take your time, learn as much as you can, and don't ever get yourself stressed, slowly slowly.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Eddie,
Welcome to the forum. I have no aspirations regarding watch repair as a profession but like some others here,I love to tinker.
I was attracted here by Marks videos and his advice helped me to bring a treasured watch back to life and so I became hooked.
Watch Making is a whole new ball game requiring a knowledge of turning your own parts not just buying them which the School will no doubt train you in. It sounds quite exciting but beyond me as another oldish guy retired etc. I am happy pulling them apart and servicing. I wish you well for the future.
Cheers,
Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Just a note for those who come searching for information on this topic in the future.  I did eventually find the Mark's video on how to replace these springs, as someone observed, he does in fact make the replacement look easy.  (It actually is relatively easy once you have the knack of it.) If you're enrolled in one of Mark's online courses, the demonstration of how to replace this spring is in the Bonus Videos section of his course site, and is called "C2B1 – Sea-Gull Style Shock Springs".
    • If the metal was twice as thick, it wouldn't snap so easily.  The thickness is governed by the space available so you can't use thicker metal.  If you glued two pieces together, the likelihood of snapping would be reduced.  That's my theory anyway, could be wrong. 
    • there are various approaches to learning watch repair. A lot of people want to jump right in and every single watches something to be repaired restored. But other times like this it's disposable it's here for you to learn and when you're through learning you throw it away. yes you definitely should try this you have a learning movement you need to learn and the best way to learn is by doing something.
    • Sorry, the friction will be so great that the wheel will barely turn, if the movement will start at all, the amplitude will be verry lo.
    • If I can’t re-pivot the wheel, the logical thing to do is to descend the pivot hole.  Plan is to either stick a suitably sized hole jewel (from a barrel bridge or something) or fashion a blob of epoxy on the underside of the escape wheel cock so the wheel sits on its one pivot on the base plate and the staff with the broken off pivot (which I’ll polish as best as I can) becomes the upper pivot. As long as it doesn’t foul the 4th wheel it should work? I know it’s a bodge job, and if this were a rare movement, or belonged to someone else I would not do this. I’m just interested to see if I can get the thing to run. 
×
×
  • Create New...