Jump to content

orient cal.1946 help


Recommended Posts

Morning guys, I've been trying to source any info on the orient cal.1946 21 jewel auto movement. Ive been unsuccessful over on watchuseek forum where they have a dedicated ( but quite possibly a very cliquey ) orient forum. 

They only seem interested in "what mako are you wearing today" threads etc and not actually helping out. That's my opinion formedover the last two weeks.

Anyway,  I will be in the process of stripping and cleaning said movement soon, now I notice the day date doesn't quick set, I have tried pushing the stem/crown in aka seiko, but it does nothing part from operate a lever that protrudes out of the movement around the 2 o'clock position.  The day/date will change when hands are rotated but that's it.

I've looked on the bay for a spare movement that I could look at but they all seem to have a pusher on the case for quick setting the day/date, my particular one has not got a pusher.

Is there any specific nuances this particular movement that I need to know before I start?

Any info greatly appreciated especially from anyone that's worked on one of these before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dammit I don't have one sitting around, ohwell not to worry.

I've worked out the quick set for the day, wind on till day changes then carry on till say around 2 o'clock then reverse the hands then go forward again till around 2 o'clock and the day changes, continue doing this till desired day is displayed.

But I can't find anyway of quick setting the date, any one got any ideas on this one

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If that is the seahorse type movement you can wait till the date changes at 12 then move the hour hand back to 9 you may get a slight click then wind forward past 12 again and keep repeating. My Glycine works that way as well.
Cheers,
Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 03/04/2017 at 7:14 PM, transporter said:

Dammit I don't have one sitting around, ohwell not to worry.

I've worked out the quick set for the day, wind on till day changes then carry on till say around 2 o'clock then reverse the hands then go forward again till around 2 o'clock and the day changes, continue doing this till desired day is displayed.

But I can't find anyway of quick setting the date, any one got any ideas on this one

Sorry transporter,

I thought that my suggestion was different from what you had advised but if both methods produce the same result I guess its back to the drawing board

On 09/04/2017 at 8:03 PM, Vich said:

If that is the seahorse type movement you can wait till the date changes at 12 then move the hour hand back to 9 you may get a slight click then wind forward past 12 again and keep repeating. My Glycine works that way as well.
Cheers,
Vic

Cheers,

Vic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Snap! I recently finished my Gruen 510 movement - though the case for mine is in a rather sad state; I'm going to try re-plating it (in nickel, it's not a gold one).   Re. the screws, I got a few of the one gram mixed batches from ebay. I've only needed a couple of screws for things so far, both rare, minuscule types - but both in the mix, after enough time sorting through them! The ones such as normal bridge screws are quite common in those lots.  
    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
×
×
  • Create New...