Jump to content

Cleaning the copper plating on Omega movements


Recommended Posts

I bought an Omega 1022 for parts, and the bridges and plates are discoloured.

From what I've read, the coating is copper, over a beryllium bronze base. 

Apart from ultrasonic cleaning, is there a way to safely clean/polish these parts ?

Acid is usually used to clean copper (vinegar?) but I don't know how thick/robust the plating is.

Any suggestions ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Jury is out on what Omega actually used to plate their movements one side of the argument says that they used a beryilium copper alloy on the brass plates and the other side says that the movement where plated with pink gold. It is most likley a copper alloy because gold cannot be plated directley on to brass without using a barrier layer of nickel.

There is somone one who sent parts of for analysis to determine exactly what the coating was but a lot of people have argued that these results are not definitive the results can be seen at the below site,

http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/rgold/rgold.html

It does state that the plating is between 1 micron and 5 microns thick so not very thick at all so any polishing would have to be done with none abrasive cleaners or you will soon see the yellow brass showing through.

I know that if you put a copper coin into coca cola over night it will turn it bright and shiny and belive me I am not suggesting you do that for one minute but I have some scrap copper plated  movements I may try it in the next few days and see what happens and post the results.

Personally I would just clean them and live with the tarnish and discolourisation.

Edited by wls1971
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, RyMoeller said:

Interesting read.  Seems pretty definitive to me.  :)

The results state that "This tentative identification would need to be verified by elctron-probe micro analysis" this hasnt been done as far as I know and some have stated that the age of the parts could account for no gold content being found on the movement parts, they all so say why would a watch company plate parts in copper alone when this would tarnish quicker than the brass metal underneath it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/28/2017 at 7:31 PM, Geo said:

I can highly recommend this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLOCK-CLEANING-CONCENTRATE-NO-1-250MLS-/250475705782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a5183f5b6dilute as recommended and use it in an ultrasonic bath at 50 centigrade.

Here's a couple of watches cleaned with the above.

 

 

The vinegar and cola didn't do much good, but I bought some of the stuff you recommended and I'm impressed how well it cleaned up the plates.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
×
×
  • Create New...