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Hi everyone i'm Andrew 38yo Italian and i've lived in London since 2001, moved to the UK from Turin italy for a change of career.

Passion for time machines, watches & Clocks is always been in me since i was a little kid and i loved my Grandad huge Grand Father Clock and his vintage Gold Rolex that he always praised..

I have a small collection of watches i gathered trough the years nothing fancy but very dear to me, I always commemorate a special event or occasion with a watch and in the last decade the passion has grew stronger in finding more and more about who makes them there history of the names and the technologies involved in creating these amazing machines.

Always been mechanically minded since a small age, loved lego, meccano... rc cars to small motorbike engines to making a career in fine sports cars as a tuning mechanic.

So now for some reason life got me in a boring job for the last 9 years and i keep thinking, what if .. how hard is it .. where do you learn how to fix, repair, dress up or modify watches?? and by researching on how to, i stumbled across the youtube channel and this forum witch i though it would have all the answers for knowledge and suggestions i need...

I love my watches, and i think i will appreciate them even more if i can service them, fix them work on those mechanics like i did and do with my cars and motorbikes.

 

Guys i like what ever advice you have to give from former watch makers or just lovers of time keeping industry like me!!! 

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The latest advice is to look for an ETA 6497 or 6498 movement, either Swiss or one of the Chinese clones. Even though those movements are found in watches, they are really pocket watch movements. Large, and relatively easy to work on. These are also the movements used in Marc's Watch Repair Lessons, and there are lots of resources available for a beginner.

Have Fun!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Andrew and welcome from me,

great forum here with good advice freely given.  My idea of a basic movement would be three hands, hour, min and seconds no day, date or chronograph stuff.  You may try a pocket watch as the parts are a bit larger but just the ordinary type no fusee etc.

lastly good luck,

Cheers,

Vic

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Hi Andre...

I'm new here too and also appreciate timepieces.   I'm really not in a position to offer constructive advice but, I'm compelled to suggest you invest in a Timegrapher unit.   The one I purchased is:  "YaeTek Watch Timing Machine Tester Tools Multifunction Timegrapher" from Amazon.com at a cost of $145 US.   I believe this is a fundamental piece of diagnostic equipment that will benefit anyone interested in mechanical watches.

 

Ray

 

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    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.   I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
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    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.    
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