second hand face is detached

[adiorio110]

I have a watch face where the second hand face is detached ,

Is there a proper procedure or glue to use?

[94marconi]

Bit of a sticky wicket that one...It appears to be a single sunk porcelain  dial from a pocket watch no? If it is, then the sub dial was soldered in place and then the dial was fired. To repair the dial can be re soldered but will the heat to do so crack or discolour the porcelain? A better option would be to use a high quality two part clear epoxy. All of this would depend on the value of the dial be it monetary or sentimental...If the dial is indeed porcelain, then the line edge would need to be addressed and sealed on the face side as well to prevent hairlines from forming. The one thing going for you is the fact it is such a clean break. Wonder how the damage happened?

Hopefully some one with dial experience will chime in...curious myself as to the best way to proceed.

Ron

 

[adiorio110]

94marconi

Its a shame because there are no cracks in the dial a little nick  on the outside edge that may be covered in a case. Im thinking crazy glue LOL

Edited February 22, 2017 by adiorio110

[94marconi]

I would be more inclined towards the epoxy myself although the gel types of cyanoacrylate super glues are tempting to use for their convenience. Another concern I have heard of using modern glues is the aspect of off gassing contaminating the parts inside the watch...where are our dial experts when one needs them...

Ron

[oldhippy]

Shellac would have been used years ago.

[Watchtime]

I agree with Ron on this, the 2 part epoxy would be the best choice.

[adiorio110]

I agree with Ron on this, the 2 part epoxy would be the best choice.

Any particular brand or type ?
Is gorilla epoxy good?

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[adiorio110]

Shellac would have been used years ago.

Do you mean for the repair and/or the initial installation?

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[szbalogh]

As Oldhippy said, shellack..... or soledering tin. 

 

[adiorio110]

As Oldhippy said, shellack..... or soledering tin. 
 

I'm pretty good at soldering if you don't think it would hurt the enamel I would try it.

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[szbalogh]

Just now, adiorio110 said:

...  if you don't think it would hurt the enamel... 

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It won't, since enamel is melting at around 800 Celsius.

[frenchie]

Epoxy would be my choice too. I would let it cure fully, and then let it air out for at least a week or 2 to make sure all the gases have evaporated.

With soldering, I'be afraid that the expansion of the base metal would cause the enamel to crack.

[adiorio110]

With soldering, I'be afraid that the expansion of the base metal would cause the enamel to crack.

That is a good point

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[adiorio110]

Quote

 

2 hours ago, frenchie said:

Epoxy would be my choice too. I would let it cure fully, and then let it air out for at least a week or 2 to make sure all the gases have evaporated.

With soldering, I'be afraid that the expansion of the base metal would cause the enamel to crack.

Looking at the video szbalogh posted  it looks like they solder it in after enameling is done. But it is a nice clean dial, I would hate to literally toast it.

 

[Watchtime]

any epoxy for metal can do the trick....test a small drop on the back on the enamel to see whether it effects the color of the enamel.

[dadistic]

Believe it or not, but I've read that some folks use Elmer's to reattach enamel subdials. Easy to try and easy to reverse.