Jump to content

"Rough" winding on Calibre 11 when micro rotor installed

sstakoff

By sstakoff
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

sstakoff WRT Addict

sstakoff

Posted
Posted

Have a Breitling Calibre 11-i (Same as Heuer, Buren, etc) - Chronomatic with the micro rotor. Part numbers below reference the technical docs, which can be found here:

https://www.calibre11.com/catalogues/vintage-heuer-catalogues/1969-calibre-11-technical-manual/

 

When the micro rotor is removed, the watch winds very smoothly - as expected. However, with the micro rotor installed, the winding is somewhat "crunchy". With the rotor removed, when the wig-wag pinion (1500) is out of contact with the winding-up wheel (1480) and reduction wheel (1481), winding is smooth. If I engage the wig-wag pinion with the winding up wheel, this will result in the clutch on the coupling wheel (1521) slipping as it should. The heavy feeling comes from the clutch action. The real question here is whether or not the wig wag pinion is supposed to remain engaged or if it's supposed to move out of the way when manually winding. I have tried lubricating the wig wag with the technical manual recommendation of 9020 (visco lube) and also with a more modern D-5. Same results. I have also lubricated the coupling clutch with the recommended KT-22.

It is possible that the feeling I sense is perfectly normal and expected for this calibre - I'm just not certain. Would appreciate any insight.

 

Stu

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
sstakoff WRT Addict

sstakoff

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, SSTEEL said:

Reverse wheel lubrication dried up?

Don't think so. This type of watch has an external click for the wind-up and reduction gears. I did a full cleaning and lubrication of all components.

Edited by sstakoff
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Marc Distinguished Member

Marc

Posted
Posted

That gritty feeling when hand winding is perfectly normal and is simply a function of the 3 pronged star type ratchet system.

I did a walk through on a Hamilton Cal.92 (Buren 1281) here;

It does feel odd but it is no a fault.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • joelcarvajal
      Gamblin Gamsol for cleaning?

      By joelcarvajal · Posted

      Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Zedster
      Movement inserted from crytal side

      By Zedster · Posted

      Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • nevenbekriev
      Main spring

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
×
×
  • Create New...