Jump to content

Balance staff replacement without staking set??


Endeavor

Recommended Posts

I've noticed that the top-pivot of my Landeron 48 balance staff has a wear groove in it. Of course, I could leave it, but since the movement is in parts and I like to learn as much as possible from it, I was wondering whether it is possible to change the balance-staff out without a staking set ? Obviously more risk, but is it possible at all ?

58a41edcf1fb2_ScreenShot2017-02-15at10_22_58.png.4e5c458d9be5a4dd00e29cfbe0aa5006.png

Any old tricks of the trade ........ ? Which hand tools are needed ?

Hope to hear ......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The simple answer is no.

 It's the one part of a watch movement that I wouldn't recommend trying to repair without the correct tools.  You first have to remove the hairspring and roller table then either cut off or break the riveted area where the balance is located on the shaft.  This is where you need a lathe, staking set or platax tool to do it accurately and safely.  

The new shaft then has to be fitted precisely aligned with the wheel and then riveted, this you will need a staking set to do correctly.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got agree, you really do need a staking set, at the bare minimum a set of stakes and staking table. That's how I started, then I got a staking tool, that made everything so much easier, I had to drill out the tube to fit my stakes as they weren't a matching set, but now work perfectly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you @Geo and @transporter for your answers. I just had another look at staking sets, but time didn't make them cheaper :(

I was hoping that it could be done, one way or another and despite the increased risk, by hand. Looking at Mark's video, making a visual judgment (please correct me if I'm wrong), the hairspring and roller could be removed using fine edged lever-type hand-removers (?).

Transporter: What do you mean with a "staking-table"? Would a "staking-block" do? https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/36-hole-bergeon-1902

If so, 3 punches are needed. 1) to remove the staff 2) to "initiate" the rivet and 3) to flatten the rivet.

I'm also not sure if the Landeron 48 staff is friction fit or riveted type. That's another leaning point ......

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Endeavor said:

Would a "staking-block" do?

As You know i am brave watch butcher but to replace a balance staff... even i had no guts to try :startle:

The correct way to remove the balance is to cut the staff from the support side on the lathe. By simply pushing out the balance staff from the balance can distort the balance and scrape the balance hole making it bigger, so the new staff with the same size may wobble. 

Staking back would be an easy part, since one can make a simple staking tool and turn the desired stakes. This is actually on my list :)

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As You know i am brave watch butcher but to replace a balance staff... even i had no guts to try :startle:
The correct way to remove the balance is to cut the staff from the support side on the lathe. By simply pushing out the balance staff from the balance can distort the balance and scrape the balance hole making it bigger, so the new staff with the same size may wobble. 
Staking back would be an easy part, since one can make a simple staking tool and turn the desired stakes. This is actually on my list [emoji4]

But if you don't have a wonderful lathe then Staking it out is your only option, unless you cut it out with a drumel tool


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a job in recently which turned out to be the staff had worked loose from the balance wheel, however after looking more closely, the hole the staff normally pressed into had enlarged due to the staff being loose for so long, so no chance of re-pressing that back in.  Ended up replacing the wheel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@david I presume that Uncle Larry is in the States? If so, I have to add shipping cost and the Kings-servants over here charge import duty over the combined amount; purchase price + shipping cost. So, if the paperwork is done as per obeying citizen, that's going to be about the double of in Uncle Larry shop I'm afraid :(

The set has to come from within Europe to avoid that the King takes his share.......

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@david Thank you ;)  The are also a few sets on eBay auctions, within Europe. Unfortunately everything from the States or Canada, or to be more precise, outside Europe, the King-servants are charging import duties over everything with > $20 in value. This amounts up to 100 - 150%! (VAT; 25% is only one part of it, it's the different administration fees who seal the "deal")

Cars in Denmark cost (factory price + 25% VAT) x 200% registration cost (to get the number-plate) ..... but I digress ;)

I will watch the video, thanks for the link !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is another tool that can be used & I have used it with pocket watch staffs. It works by placing it over the old staff & pressing firmly on the balance rim and when pressing the plunger (which is spring loaded) it shocks the old balance staff out. The shaft is the same diameter as a staking tools punch and it is recommended that it is also used with a staking tool. I must admit I have not used it for a few years now but it does work but a bit crude.
The bottom line is use the correct tools if available.

UNRUH-MAX.thumb.jpg.97ac920e983ea814265b502914eb9343.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As i understand the balance is riveted on the staff at the balance shoulder/riveting shoulder. So the staff got altered and the balance is intact.

http://great-british-watch.co.uk/how-to-make-a-balance-staff/

Although, there are balance staffs without a balance shouéder/riveting shoulder. Here, the collet shoulder is tapered and/or the balance wheel is riveted at the wheel arm. So the balance got altered and the staff is intact. See attached picture.

I think the latter type could be simply staked out. 

58a5605f8e2cd_Untitled39.jpg.140f0234e7ca8e547496f49bccfc053c.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to add an important point. Normally removing a balance via punching it out (I use a Platax tool) is OK providing the rim of the balance is securely held and that the balance staff is not made of the old style metal. This is important as the hole that the staff is held by is not distorted/stretched and the rim of the balance is also not distorted during removal the process. I have read in a few BHI reports that some of the old style staffs where made of superior metals. If the staff does not show signs of moving with gentle taps you will have to remove the rivet using a graver & lathe to remove without causing unnecessary damage. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@clockboy Interesting information, but that doesn't simplify things !

Has anybody any idea what kind of material the Landeron 48 staff (say 1950's) staff may be? Has anybody on this forum attempted a Landeron 48 balance staff change-out?

I also understood from a YT-video the a friction-fit balance staff has a blue balance shoulder, this seems to be the tell-tale for friction fit staffs (?).balance-names.jpeg.68ee7babbd9df9bafd9fb91424839de0.jpeg

@Geo Thanks and understood, I'm working on it ..... ........it takes time to find an appropriate deal ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi

As stated there are methods for removing the staff with a staking set and various balance staff removal tools or the Bergeon Platax tool, but neither are recommended because of the possible distortion to the balance. Many people still do it though as it is often works fine.

The recommended ways are to cut the balance out on a lathe or grind the hub away. Bergeon (who else!) used to sell a machine for this - Molfres 5482. I suppose it may be possible to do this with a rotary tool, but you would need a steady hand ;). Even so, as already pointed out you would still need a staking set to properly insert the new staff.

Stephen

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I need to see photos of the whole movement before I comment. 
    • Hi @Jon, so, from one extreme to another the beat error is 0.1(min.pos) to 0.2(msx.pos), and as you mentioned the rate does up and down dramatically. Also checked the position of the collet, and the collet is not central to the jewel on the balance cock. Balance moves freely, per my understanding.   So, after 24h the ampl. fell down by approx 20 deg, which I would assume is expected. After adjusting the endshake I believe I gained around +10 deg. of balance movement. Which is great, and overall the balance is not at 220'ish deg.   What I did next, some might think is non-orthodox, but was wort a try. I too the mainspring out, checked again for endshake and if the pin moves freely, and cleaned everything. Usually when installing the mainspring I would use some barrel grease on the barrel walls, install the spring and put a 2-3 drops of D-5 oil on top of the wounded spring and in the places where the arbor sits. This time I took the spring and applied a ultra this coat of Molykote Dx paste on the whole spring, before installing it in to the barrel, and added some oil to the arbor as usual.  The result improved, at a full wound the balance produces about 230-237 deg. @JohnR725 I'm getting closer to 300 😃   What I am noticing, there is a fluctuation in amplitude. With time it would rise and drop about total 8-10 deg in an interval about 2 minutes. I assumed this ruled out the power transfer from the barrel itself. So I took the gear train out, cleaned and lubed. 
    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
×
×
  • Create New...