Jump to content

seiko 5t52b movement not working


Recommended Posts

Hi All

I am a newbie ...If fact still waiting for my watch course to arrive(should be here Friday). In the meantime I built a little work bench and purchased some tools(posted a few pictures in introduction forum). 

Because I am anxious to start tinkering I decided to replace the battery in a seiko 5t52b movement. I replaced the battery, no dice, so I shorted the AC to the battery positive, still no dice. I know I may be getting ahead of myself but what should I be looking at next.

IMG_1970.JPG

Thank You

Anthony

  

IMG_2008.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

jdm

Thank you for the manual I registered on that site seems I have a few seikos that have the same problem. The manuals section should come in very handy.

I have to order another battery. I could have sworn when I tested it was good ..There is either a crazy drain or I made a mistake. Battery only has .4 volts. So first I'll try another battery. when testing the coil resistance and pulse output I assume the battery should be in the movement. sorry for my complete ignorance. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, adiorio110 said:

So first I'll try another battery. when testing the coil resistance and pulse output I assume the battery should be in the movement. sorry for my complete ignorance. 

Coil resistance is without battery and even with coil removed. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, clockboy said:

In my opinion most Quartz movements are not worth tinkering with. I would take measurements of the movement and see if there is an equivalent replacement. 

Gotta agree with Clockboy on this, there are exceptions depending on the diagnosis/repair, some of the older Seiko quartz chronos are getting harder to find NOS replacements. The newer kinetics are pretty high priced too. Your 5T52 looks like a 7T32, but that would be a guess and case measurement would be critical. Also check the pushers for dirt and sticking.

Image result for seiko 7t32

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks similar to the 7T32/34 movement. Your movement isn't the cleanest is have seen? So maybe there is dirt an rust inside? 

Sound like something is draining the battery? Probably a shortcut? You can lift the circuit board and see how it looks? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all

And thanks for the replies. I am waiting for a new battery before I go any further with the Seiko. In the meantime I received my watch repair course a day early. A donor watch also was delivered, a side wind lever set Elgin. The watch is running and seems to be keeping good time. To be honest with you I really like it and hate to take it apart, it even has my first initial carved into it, but I guess some have to be sacrificed for the better good. Wish me luck. Here are a few shots of the victim.

  

IMG_2017.JPG

IMG_2015.JPG

IMG_2016.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a nice pocket watch that you have picked up.  

Can I suggest that you delete the above post and start another thread relating to this one and keep this thread for information relating to the Seiko.  

It helps others when searching for threads on specific watches. :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Geo

I would be glad to but I can't figure out how to edit or delete post on this forum.

Also I see you were the one who tested the Lamp  8015LED-U I would like to ask you a few lighting questions. Should I start a new thread or should I post in the one already started . It is an old thread started 2 years ago last post was last year.  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/4/2017 at 1:23 PM, adiorio110 said:

newbie

As a newbie how do you feel about painful lessons? In other words if you destroy your first watch are you going to regret it? As Geo commented you have a nice watch that's running more than likely it will not be running after you take it apart and try to put it back together. So this is a full plate American pocket watch things work just a little bit differently on these. They just tend to be very confusing for new people and not always fun to work on especially when you go to reassemble them. If the watch wasn't running it was broken I wouldn't care but I just hate to see running watches destroyed in the name of learning purposes.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can I suggest that you delete the above post and start another thread relating to this one and keep this thread for information relating to the Seiko.  
I don't think that postings can be deleted? Probably that would be useful on some cases.
I agree wiith others, better leave the Elgin alone and get something else to start learning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

As a newbie how do you feel about painful lessons? In other words if you destroy your first watch are you going to regret it? As Geo commented you have a nice watch that's running more than likely it will not be running after you take it apart and try to put it back together. So this is a full plate American pocket watch things work just a little bit differently on these. They just tend to be very confusing for new people and not always fun to work on especially when you go to reassemble them. If the watch wasn't running it was broken I wouldn't care but I just hate to see running watches destroyed in the name of learning purposes.

John

I appreciate the advice,  But I never start anything thinking I will fail at it. I WILL put this back together again and it WILL work (that was just some positive reinforcement LOL). 

  • Another point of view might be if  I took apart a watch that didnt work and put it back together. How would I know I did it right. I am not at the point I can diagnosis whats wrong to fix an otherwise broken watch.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

2 hours ago, adiorio110 said:

I appreciate the advice,  But I never start anything thinking I will fail at it. I WILL put this back together again and it WILL work (that was just some positive reinforcement LOL). 

  • Another point of view might be if  I took apart a watch that didnt work and put it back together. How would I know I did it right. I am not at the point I can diagnosis whats wrong to fix an otherwise broken watch.

That's a good attitude that you will need to keep if your going to do repairs. I would agree that a running watch is better to work on, but you don't get any diagnosis experience. Before trying your hand at teardown/reassembly of a 100 year old pocket watch, you will gain more knowledge working on some broken cheaper donor movements.

23 hours ago, adiorio110 said:

To be honest with you I really like it and hate to take it apart,

What if you accidently bend that hairspring?, It has happened to all of us, your going to feel terrible and PO'd at yourself, plus added cost to replace/repair. Have you priced a good staking tool set? Cuz that's what you'll need to replace that bad hairspring. Put the Elgin away for another day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, WileyDave said:

 

That's a good attitude that you will need to keep if your going to do repairs. I would agree that a running watch is better to work on, but you don't get any diagnosis experience. Before trying your hand at teardown/reassembly of a 100 year old pocket watch, you will gain more knowledge working on some broken cheaper donor movements.

What if you accidently bend that hairspring?, It has happened to all of us, your going to feel terrible and PO'd at yourself, plus added cost to replace/repair. Have you priced a good staking tool set? Cuz that's what you'll need to replace that bad hairspring. Put the Elgin away for another day.

I already did some work on it ...But I think I'll take everyones advice and look for a junker

 

  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having worked with beginners and their watches I sometimes think a better approach would be to let you work on great grandpa's family prized heirloom watch. More than likely are going to destroy it you'll remember that for a long time. I can strangely enough remember all the bad things I did when I started watch repair. I can still hear a jewel cracking the pivot wasn't where it was supposed to be it was a really really pretty jewel in a pocket watch.

 

So start off with a junk watch even a partial watch. Practice taking it apart and putting it back together practice a lot look at what you're doing see if you break anything don't worry if you break something we all did. I can remember being in watch repair school we were given partial 16 size watches to practice with. They were partials because the balance was removed and they were actually a timing mechanisms there's no main spring on these. The balance wheel doesn't get put on the watch until much later on when we can safely take the train apart without destroying it. So practice taking apart putting it back together getting bored asking the instructor what to do next. He suggests do it as fast as you can. So several broken pivots later and I still remember the lesson. Everyone breaks things when they start.

So another option break something that you could replace. It's quite a pleasure when the watch you took apart comes back together and runs. So what makes a really good training watch movement for newbies is something big and something that we don't care if you destroy. So a 6947 Swiss pocket watch cloned by the Chinese they show up on eBay regularly. So big easy to work on if you destroy up by another one off eBay. Then link below disassembly reassembly visually can see what you're doing. Notice there is a variation in the number 6497-1 6497-2 Basically the same except frequency first runs at 18,000 beats per hour the second at 21,000. For training purposes that are both the same I wouldn't recommend taking the mainspring barrel apart. Also don't play with the balance jewels yet especially if the Chinese they skip to step and we should probably go over that before you do that it's not really something you need now in a way definitely not for pocket watches.

Also attached is the tech guide and manufacturing information sheet. Both of them together have a lot of technical information.

http://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html

 

 

ETA 6497-2 Manufacturing Information.pdf

ETA 6497-2 Technical Communication.pdf

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Johnr725

I thought the watch I purchased was cheap enough.. But your right I don't want to wreck it. Only cost me 60 bucks. I found another watch (movement only) it also runs but it is exactly the same as the one in the course I am following, so that is a big plus. It is a side wind lever set, Only cost me 43 bucks I could not find a non working one for a better price.  

Antique Waltham Model 1877 Appleton, Tracy & Co. Pocket Watch Movement

tried to post pictures but was give error message

BTW thank you for those links

 

Anthony

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having worked with beginners and their watches I sometimes think a better approach would be to let you work on great grandpa's family prized heirloom watch. More than likely are going to destroy it you'll remember that for a long time. I can strangely enough remember all the bad things I did when I started watch repair.
Yes.
That made remember when I brought a nice jump hour pocket watch for repa
ir, I must have been 11 or so. It didn't took long for the guy to figure out that someone must have messed with it, now guess who? [emoji52] That was so long ago that watchmakers were a common business, as he had shop the next block from ours. That watch might still be with the family but Mom is not so willing to go check the safebox at the bank, easier would be have Dad cough up the English cased Rolex, thing that for the right money he could even do [emoji2]
Going back to more recent times I then tried to put apart for no reason at all a battery Swatch, having no screwdriver smaller than 2mm, which seemed very small at that time.
And finally to the present time of placing Seiko parts upside down and collecting a cemetery of balance and hairsprings.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Holy gears from hell batman!

Ok. So as the movement is useless as it sits and I was a little bored I figured I'd take a peek inside. I think I met my finally met my match. Does anyone knbow where there might be a step by step guide for this movement?  

SEIKO 5T52b

 

58d5abe8e58d4_Seiko7s2671.thumb.jpg.44b4b1834ab420c46713eb14f3134d22.jpg58d5ac9d68460_Seiko5T52B75.thumb.jpg.4d3158bc0b4c9867901e0561f054b5b0.jpg

Edited by adiorio110
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adiorio,

From the picture it looks like the watch has 3 separate stepper motors each having its own gear train. If all three motors are dead the problem is probably further back in the circuit. Check to see if you are getting a proper voltage to the computer chip. Then check the driver output from the chip to the stepper coil. An oscilloscope could be very helpful to trace out the problem as it can show a picture of the actual pulse that drives the steppers.

david

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • although not in this case.  It was the Lugano Convention and its deficiencies that allowed a Swiss court decision in the first place.  This isnt really a Brexit issue at all.  A decision that affects both the EU and the UK should never have been heard in Switzerland. I bet the authorised service centres in the UK are pretty pleased.  It's a massive shame, though; I believe watch owners should be able to choose to have their watch serviced by whoever they trust.
    • Hi guys I think that old hippy is correct, it opens the gates for china to manufacture aftermarket spare parts. considering that they already do work on behalf of the Swiss I guess this decision gives the a little more legitimacy to tool up and I am sure they will take advantage of the situation either with or without the blessing of the Swiss watch industry  Having read about the protectionist machinations of the Swiss in the history of Europe they were the only ones to get fat at everybody else’s expense. I think the outcome could have been guessed at but ,  fair play to Cousins UK for standing up to them.  Now the question,  will everybody boycott Swiss watches and Swatch, no way they will still fill their coffers.  Me I stick with the Japanese once renowned for cheap shitty watches who came good through industrial effort and don’t for get the Russians that most dismiss as low grade crap. Wouldn’t buy a swatch product ever how about you all.? a
    • Hold the crown when in winding position, move the click away from the crown wheel, and then while holding the crown let it slowly unwind. I recollect that you must remove the automatic device bridge first, but maybe I'm wrong. You can first try without removing the automatic device bridge.
    • nevenbekriev- You nailed it with your description of me and my reaction when the clock started ticking again. I am a newbie.  I love the sound and idea of mechanical clocks but the idea of owning one and trying to keep them running has never appealed to me. My wife bought this one and an antique German wall clock.  When I looked into having someone repair them for me, the universal response was "it's really expensive to work on them, you should just replace the movement". So, I had nothing to lose, I started researching them and opened them up. The wife is happy because she hears the sound of the clocks again. But I have gone down the "accuracy" rabbit hole. In the vertical position, the balance wheel was not floating. It was sitting on the bottom of the frame. I adjusted the lower spring collet and got it floating. It easily passed the 270 degree 3 to 5 minute oscillation test. It took 8 minutes for the wheel to completely stop moving.  I put it the unit back in the movement and checked the safety pin. It does not touch the safety roller anywhere in +/-270 degrees rotation from neutral position. But the amplitude of the rotation with the spring fully wound is weak based on what you are saying. It rotates +/-90 degrees from the neutral position.  No, I did not take the movement completely apart.  That seemed way outside my skill set at the time. There is a reason I became an electrical engineer and not a mechanical engineer. I am much more comfortable with moving electrons than tiny moving metal parts. Will I do it in the long run? Anything can happen. I don't seem to be able to let it go.
×
×
  • Create New...