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Seiko 7S26-0030


clockboy

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Purchased for myself this non working & badly scratched Seiko 7S26-0030 which is a mid sized diver. Interesting project that was on & off my bench for a couple one months. New Seiko parts fitted dial, stem,crystal & bezel. After market parts the hands & mainspring.

The only issue was when I fitted a GR2378X mainspring I had problems with the centre coil around the arbour slipping. I tried to reduce the final bend around the barrel arbour but it still slipped. I don,t know if it was my Bergeon winder which arbours have very fat diameters made matters worse by re-widening the inner coil but it still slipped when under presser. Anyway I purchased a GR2377X which is slightly shorter in length but seemed to have a smaller inner coil & it worked.I polished out the case scratches with a Proxon fitted with cotton wheels and different grades of Dialux polishing compounds 

The strap is a mesh style from “watchgecko” who supply better quality straps.

Before.jpg

Before

After.jpg

After

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it's a real beauty, now! nice job on that refurb.

i bought one about a year ago off of the bay. i got it cheap (60 or 70 bucks IIRC) and it's perfect in every way. it looks as if it were never worn. i wear it occasionally because it is just a hint too small. but it's a keeper.

this size would be good for a lady also, i think. well....unless her name is olga and she tops out at 15 stone.

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    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
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