Jump to content

Greenhorn here!! Hello from Japan!! Cant wait to learn!


Viniebaby

Recommended Posts

Hi, My name is Francisco and I am currently located in Japan! :) From California and nose deep into cycling and have been for the past 10+ years. Having worked on bicycles and car motors with big big components has always got my blood pumping. But now I find myself getting into watches more and more and would love nothing more than to learn ALL I can about them and how to service them! I have recently acquired some Seiko watches here in Japan from an old Watch maker. Seiko SKX009, SNKL81and a 7009-3040. All automatic and all running like a champ! :) The watch maker is Japanese and does not understand a lick of english. I do not speak a lick of Japanese and so it is hard to communicate with the man! HAHA! Is there anyone with a tool list of what I should get, maybe a manual I can pick up somewhere or something someone can help me out with? Any help is appreciated! 

 

Arigato!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome!

I'm jealous that you are in the land of Seiko, and can hang out with old  watchmakers. 

Search the forum for Seiko 7S26, and you will find info for the movement in your SKX009. There is even a repair video available in the Videos and Courses section.

Have Fun!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My essential tools.

Timegrapher. Demagnetiser. Screwdrivers. Tweezers. Some form of magnifying glasses. 15x eyeglass. Oils & applicators. Movement holder. Jaxa type tool. Pegwood. Pithwood. Rodico. Case press. Hand lifters. Cleaning fluid (Naptha) & containers. Parts holders with dust covers. Brushes. Spares. Finger cots. Blower. Vernier gauge. Files. Drill bits. etc.

It's endless, but great fun.

Edited by ftwizard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello Francisco,

Can I suggest you get a book called Practical Watch Repairing by Donald de Carle and perhaps Watch Repair for Beginners by Harold C Kelly. They are old but still quite relevant and a lot of us have these as reference books. Of course traces on the forums on specifics are very likely to bring results as well and if you get in a fix help is freely given,

Cheers Vic

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
×
×
  • Create New...