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Welcome to new members from the Moderators


Geo

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On behalf of "Watch Repair Talk" moderators, I would like to extend a warm welcome to all new members.  

This is a friendly place with plenty of knowledgeable people who have varying degrees of horological expertise, the great thing is they are willing to share that invaluable knowledge and help one another.

To help us keep things running smoothly, I would ask all new members to read the forum rules and place their posts in the correct sections.

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  • 3 months later...
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hi everybody

my name is roger and i live in central france in retirement,  my hobby is collecting watches and occasional tinkering. there

seems to be a wealth of knowledge and experience on this site which will be of great interest to me. well best wishes ti all

and now i will begin searching.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi,

I just joined today having recently realized that I actually have a small collection of modern and vintage watches, and I had better learn how to take care of them - this site looks great for that; also, I stupidly broke the most sentimentally important watch I have and I need some advice on it before heading to an expert.  My vintage watches are all gifts from my father, who likes to collect one here and there; none are high value but all are interesting for their connection to history:

Here is a list and I am posting photos:

 

Modern:

Orient Mako II automatic dive watch (brand new)

Pulsar quartz chronometer (dates from approx 1990)

Seiko quartz dress watch

Vintage:

Lord Elgin mechanical (runs)

Waltham mechanical (runs) 

Elgin DeLuxe Shock Master mechanical (runs but needs a back - it disappeared)

LeJour Chronometer (needs repair)

Duane

Maryland/USA

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Hi, I am new and taking several watch making classes. A retired engineer and finding watch making and repair fascinating. I have assembled a nice collection of tools and lots of junk watches to practice on. The attached pictures are of my still evolving work area 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi everyone 

I am Bazza and I have developed an interest in watches mainly as a result of wanting to get my grandfather’s pocket watch running. When I was young (now in my 70s !) it sat in my fathers drawer untouched. My grandfather died like so many in the First World War, so it hasn’t run for many years. To my own amazement, with help from forums like this and from YouTube, it is now running. It was the pallet fork causing the problem. I think I am now hooked on this business !

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@Jim61; I can't see (unless I overlooked something) that anybody replied to your introduction :o Have you fallen through the cracks of this forum ?? Are you still there? I'm sure the forum would love to have you, as an experienced engineer, onboard !! Please use in the "Introduce yourself here" section the green "Start new Topic" button (top right) to create a new introduction thread for yourself ;)

If I'm wrong and you are already happily cruising along on this forum ...... then welcome from me :biggrin:

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    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
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