Jump to content

Wanted Threads


Recommended Posts

I note that we're not allowed to post sales ads on the forum which is accepted and understood but are we allowed to post wanted/hard to find parts threads at all. For example I'm struggling to find a mainspring barrel and/or a 16s hairspring without having to buy a watch for parts and because they're American (Waltham/Elgin) they seem to cost more over here than over there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As old hippy said, if you need to find a part, you can google it or ask in the forum for advise. Someone might have already had some luck finding it and provide who they have contacted. Other than that, you realize this is just an "experience exchange  forum", mostly educational, and not an e-market site so a section of wanted stuff is not a good feature to have. In addition, as per our rules, it will be a violation. That said, a question asking for input about the part you need or a solution for that matter, is perfectly adequate. I hope this is of some help.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes. I get the idea of the forum, I've been lurking for a few years. I realise I've not many posts but I find it's sometimes better to read (or watch youtube!) and learn than asking what could be considered the usual newbie questions. That's the main reason I asked the question, I didn't want to just post, I'd rather ask in this instance.

It's just that I tend to stick to pocket watch movements and I never buy them working, I prefer the problem solving and I love the damaskeening on the American Walthams and Elgins. This in itself is okay as some parts like balance staffs are fairly common on Ebay as oppose to trying to get some Thomas Russel or Lancashire Watch Co. parts, however, for example, trying to get hold of something like a mainspring barrel for a Waltham is proving difficult. I've asked on NAWWC and the Americans seem reluctant to post and I don't like buying watches for scrap as I end up trying to fix them too and I've got about 20 awaiting repairs at the minute. The Walthams and American stuff on UK Ebay is usually overpriced too I find and there's not many basket cases around.

Thanks for the replies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

According to my Waltham Serial Number Book, this S/N is a Model 1894, Grade 210, Size 12, 7 jewel movement, is this correct? circa ~1920

I thought I might have a barrel I could give you, but I do not have one of those in my parts movements. I will check a few sites and if I find one, I will private message you and give you a link.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...