Jump to content

smiths empire 3 train westminster finally running


transporter

Recommended Posts

Here's another few, first 2 are of the levers on the chime side as they sit between the plates, pictures 3 4  5 & 6 are of the front with the rack etc as it is right now, and the final one is of the strike side wheel locked by the long lever.

hopefully you may be able to point me in the right direction to get these chimes set up, I've never done it before so if you could keep this simple that would be great guys, and thank you.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This vid is not the same movement as a Smiths but gives you a really good idea of how the strike & chime sides work. There are similarities with the Smiths IE it is a rack & snail set up with a westminster chime.

I suggest you watch this vid a few times & then compare it to how the Smiths works.
Once to know how it actually works adjustments & fault finding will become a lot easier.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now what I can see from the first picture, pity the fly wheel is in the way, The leaver to the right has a part that sits under the leaver closest to the plate, it needs to be adjusted by the screw so it is as close as possible without it lifting  up, now turn the minute from its center to the first quieter you will get the warning first then move a little more until and it should lift enough for the wheel to be released and go round once and then drop in the grove again, if this works turn the hand again until you have completed one hour.

Tell me if it has worked. This part is all about getting that leaver at the correct depth.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apologies for not being here tonight gents, late night finishing at work, oldhippy, I get the two levers, so the one on the right needs to lifted so it's touching the one on the left but not lifting it, is this correct?

If this is correct, what position should I have the chiming wheel (the one on the right) ?

After that, where shoud the rack be, and where should the pin be that sits in the rack?

The centre cam, what position should this be in and does the minute hand have to be in line with any part of that cam?

Are any of these questions relevant to setting up the chimes and strikes? Really sorry if they sound dumb or pushy ie not taking notice of what you have said and taken time to explain to me, I hope they are relevant to what you have said so atleast then I won't offend your good self. 

No clock work tonight hopefully tomorrow I can get the screwdrivers out, fingers crossed, thanks again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I get the two levers, so the one on the right needs to lifted so it's touching the one on the left but not lifting it, is this correct? Yes

If this is correct, what position should I have the chiming wheel (the one on the right) ? Do you mean the wheel with the little pin in it? if so look at the video clockboy has posted and you can see the pin so yours needs to be about the same place.

After that, where should the rack be, and where should the pin be that sits in the rack? Part 1 should be under part two and part one should be sitting in the slot of part 3 and the wheel with the pin in it next to the fly wheel should be about where I have put the green arrow.

 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.327451982a95044d4dc12422bae469cb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The part that lifts the hammer must not be touching any of the stars on the star wheel. With some star wheels it is possible to move the star because some are friction tight ( i can't remember on this type) if you decide to try be very careful because if it is not friction tight you could bend teeth or bend a wheel or pinion out of shape. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The center cam, what position should this be in and does the minute hand have to be in line with any part of that cam? No.

This tells you what is what and I've included the strike and chime for you.

 

Are any of these questions relevant to setting up the chimes and strikes? Really sorry if they sound dumb or pushy ie not taking notice of what you have said and taken time to explain to me, I hope they are relevant to what you have said so atleast then I won't offend your good self. 

Don't worry I love helping out. That's what this friendly forum is for.

 

 

 

image.thumb.jpeg.725bec1ca0c354a5d24523409c644257.jpg

image.jpeg.b4277d60bd6c843af16e2d3855213e54.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Huge thanks for the pictures with all the information, it doesn't look like I'm going to get much time to start this this week due to work, so it looks like a weekend task, if not hopefully a Friday afternoon tinkering session.

I shall study what you have written and digest as best I can and hopefully put it all into practice and get it working . Stay tuned for my progress ok

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Old hippy and others that have helped me so far! Right guys this is the story so far, today I have been working on this clock again as I am at my parents home so I have had nearly 8 hours going over this movement.

I finally got the chimes and strikes to work when they should and in the correct order, I put the top cover on and it didn't strike, think I might of caught the silent lever, so off came the cover and reset the time, and gave it a test by forward assisting the minute hand around the dial allowing it to catch the warnings and allowing every chime and strike do their things.

Now I seem to have found a problem where if I allow the movement to go by itself through the time till it hits the warning, then onto the chime, it seems to take too long for the movement to move so to speak and allow the lever to stop the lift of the chiming lever thus allowing the clock to continously chime nonstop and throw in the odd strike for good measure.

I have just now had it do a warning and chime and hour strike by itself under its own steam, fingers crossed it might be self healing 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
    • I recently bought this but not on ebay. I figured if I want something Japanese I better check Japanese auction sites since these don't seem to pop up on ebay. I paid 83 € plus shipping & taxes. I think it was pretty reasonable for a complete set in good condition.
    • Did you take the friction pinion off the large driving wheel and grease it? Although, now that I think about it, that shouldn't have any effect on the free running of the train if the friction pinion isn't interacting withe minute wheel/setting wheel...
    • I did in fact use Rodico to get the spring into general position and "hold" it there while I used a fine oiler to make subtle positional adjustments.
×
×
  • Create New...