Jump to content

Bhi Distance Learning


Recommended Posts

Hi all, Hope you all had a very festive Christmas and best wishes for 2016 and beyond!!

 

I've just started the BHI distance learning course and I'm on the second chapter. I must confess there is a barrage of technical detail to absorb and memorise. So much so my brain just cant handle it and I fear I may not do so well in an exam. This is a worrying feeling as I've only just started. I've only been interested in watches but the course is heavily biased towards clocks and naturally so. Having jumped through the other chapters of the course, I see it only gets more technical. How can a person memorise such detail and attempt to pass an exam? I have no mentor to guide me through clock/watch repairs and thus I fear not knowing the theory through practical.

 

Has anyone recently done the BHI course and got as far as becoming an MBHI? If so how was it for you? The course has changed since 2011 I believe so anyone with recent experience who can give me feedback, would be great! I really need to know how technicians have approached this course and the time frame it took.

 

Enjoy 2016 all!

 

Hiren.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have looked at the courses based at Upton Hall but I thought they were expensive & to specific to one subject so I gave them a miss.

I did sign up to Tascione online course which is based around clocks but the lathe instruction part is very good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree Clockboy, when you start adding up all the tools, materials and course fees, it becomes pretty steep. I've often been curious about the online courses and they do look informative (and more realistic) but there is no qualification to gain. Nowadays to find employment in a watch house you have to have some sort of qualification to be taken seriously... Which is sad because experience works well if not better. Oh well, guess I'll jut put my head down and try to digest all this info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum Hiren and I wish you well with your course. There are many levels of skills on this forum, from those that like to tinker, to professional watchmakers with years of experience. If you require any assistance just shout, I'm sure someone will offer good guidance.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've done the first year, and it was extremely enjoyable.

 

Working on the intermediate year now - the course materials are disappointingly old and generalized compared to the materials for year 1. I know they're working on new coursework for the later years but I don't know if/when it's going to be ready. Also there's no tutor support for years 2-3, which is a bit silly considering the tiny amount of effort it'd require to review people's work and send feedback. 

 

So really, I think years 2 & 3 are geared towards people already in the trade, unless you're very self-motivated and rich (you need a lot of tools!). 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've done the first year, and it was extremely enjoyable.

Working on the intermediate year now - the course materials are disappointingly old and generalized compared to the materials for year 1. I know they're working on new coursework for the later years but I don't know if/when it's going to be ready. Also there's no tutor support for years 2-3, which is a bit silly considering the tiny amount of effort it'd require to review people's work and send feedback.

So really, I think years 2 & 3 are geared towards people already in the trade, unless you're very self-motivated and rich (you need a lot of tools!).

Thanks mate, good to know you're on the second phase. Yes I've told that your tool inventory increases. Sadly not the same for the money in your wallet.[emoji6]

Did you pass the 1st year with the 2011 papers or before that? How did you find the theory exam? I understand you have to service a quartz watch with induced faults for the practice.

It's the theory I'm worried about...[emoji27]

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Hiren I passed in 2013. Theory was fine, actually - only difficulty was that i thought I had an extra 30 mins during the exam - had to write very fast!

 

I did the clock path for year 1, but yes - they give you a quartz watch with some bits bent/broken and some gunk you've to clean out. Pick up a couple of ETA 955.412 movements to practise on. 

 

Also had to make a test-piece over a 2 week period - enjoyed that a lot, but it was stressful!

 

post-148-0-54854200-1452010328_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Hiren I passed in 2013. Theory was fine, actually - only difficulty was that i thought I had an extra 30 mins during the exam - had to write very fast!

 

I did the clock path for year 1, but yes - they give you a quartz watch with some bits bent/broken and some gunk you've to clean out. Pick up a couple of ETA 955.412 movements to practise on. 

 

Also had to make a test-piece over a 2 week period - enjoyed that a lot, but it was stressful!

 

attachicon.gifnoggin.jpg

Thanks mate, good to know it wasn't too stressful for you.

I'm on the second chapter of the technicians course and currently learning about train calculations. The end practical is the toolmakers square which looks fun. Loads of precision cutting involved. Might not make it for next years exam so I'll try for 2017.

 

What is the test piece/component you made? I take it you did some lathe work on this? Did this go in for examination?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@hiren the test piece was the photo i attached - yes, you need a lathe! 

 

The toolmaker's square was good fun too.

@mwilkes .By the looks of things I'm definitely going to need a better equipped workshop. My current one is purely tailored for jewellery production so my current tools wont get me very far! How long did it take for you to finish the first year? Did you go at the course everyday continuously? I really want to finish it as quickly as possible! Doing so I may not do so well on the theory part. I'm struggling with train count at the moment. Stupid empty brain doesn't want to work anymore.  :notfair:   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@hiren it took me about 9 months and some fairly intense cramming in the weeks leading up to the exams. I didn't work through the course in sequence - I focused on the bits I was interested in and crammed the rest!

I was fortunate to have enough tooling - mostly from making model steam engines (a hobby that has ceased since I became a watch junkie)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Hiren,

I'm in working on lesson 8 and 9 of year 1 now, and plan to do exams in May. The course is great, I'm loving it. The revamped year one material is infinitely better than the old version (which I did for a while, 15 years ago). So far, my marks (from the tutor) have been very good, but I won't be able to do anywhere as good on the exam, without references.

The member's section on the BHI has been down for months unfortunately (groan), otherwise you could access the student board there.

Cheers!

Rob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pick up a couple of ETA 955.412 movements to practise on.

 

I don't know how to identify watches on ebay with this movement.. I was thinking of just buying a new one from Cousins to practice on, but that seems silly. Where would you pick up second hand ones?

 

Also had to make a test-piece over a 2 week period - enjoyed that a lot, but it was stressful!

Your piece looks beautifully made! That must have gotten good scores, assuming that you got its dimensions within tolerance.

Cheers!

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Hiren,

I'm in working on lesson 8 and 9 of year 1 now, and plan to do exams in May. The course is great, I'm loving it. The revamped year one material is infinitely better than the old version (which I did for a while, 15 years ago). So far, my marks (from the tutor) have been very good, but I won't be able to do anywhere as good on the exam, without references.

The member's section on the BHI has been down for months unfortunately (groan), otherwise you could access the student board there.

Cheers!

Rob

Great to hear you are enjoying it mate. I'm finding things a bit of a headache as in understanding train count. I'll get through it in time but I really want to focus on this subject with great importance. I'll be doing the toolmakers square soon!  :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon:  

 

Good luck on your exams teegee!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi Hiren,

I've just taken delivery of the course materials and first impressions suggest that this is going to be a great course. I've studied with the OU for a long time and the BHI course units are on a par if not better! Clear diagrams and colour photos - excellent!

I signed up for the Timezone course a little while back but was disappointed with both the materials and tutor - this course is like night and day.

Do you plan to get a lathe, if so which do you plan to get?

I agree with others here in that the initial outlay is big but my other hobby is RC Helicopters and that also has quite a big entry fee .

Look forward to hearing how you get on.

Regards

Bob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got about 30 years experience behind me as a watch maker and a clock maker. So if I can help in any way just ask.

That's great! Thanks so much and yes, definitely will be harassing with silly questions sometime soon.[emoji6]

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got about 30 years experience behind me as a watch maker and a clock maker. So if I can help in any way just ask.

I would love to know what the specific oils I can use for oiling the various parts of a watch. There are so many opinions out there. As well I would love to see the technique for hand cleaning of each watch component. Again there are many different opinions and techniques. I have completely stripped down, cleaned, oiled and rebuilt a Seiko 7548 and will be starting a 6139 any day now. I do have 9010 oil and K22. I do not have any oil for the balance cock.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by jdrichard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...