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About chadders1966

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    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 12/09/1966

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  1. Much appreciated, will do.
  2. Yes, I saw those. I think they would be a good deal for spares if I could press the jewels out. My movement is gold/copper coloured so I couldn't use the bridges directly. The 2451 is an 18000 I think.
  3. No, there is no driving wheel. Someone in the past must have replaced it with the wrong part - no wonder I had such trouble fitting it as it shouldn't be there! I will need to find the correct part. I am still faced with the problem of replacing the jewel though.
  4. That is what the parts list says, but not what I have which is cannon pinion only.
  5. Hi Assembling an ETA 2451, for the first time when attaching the cannon pinion I broke the centre wheel jewel. I was using a holder with centre support, but I broke it anyway - I think I may have used too much pressure. I have a number of questions, please feel free to answer any or all of them 1. Does anybody know the size of this jewel, or have one they can measure? Alternatively I do have an ETA 2571, will this be the same size? 2. Apart from Cousins, where is a good place to order these jewels? I don't want to pay the £50 or so they charge. 3. How much pressure is needed to attach the cannon pinion? I am used to firm pressure, but this one seemed to need a lot. 4. What is the best/most secure method to attach the cannon pinion? I have just been using tweezers. I did read somewhere that it was safer to hold the cannon pinion in a pin vice and push on - anybody do this? Any advice appreciated. Thanks Stephen
  6. Hi Other than EBay there are the other 2nd hand sources in North America - Uncle Larrys, Dashto, Daves Watch Parts etc. I wouldn't have thought it likely you could get the plate only though. If you need a new one the best idea may be to make one. Stephen
  7. Thanks for all the suggestions. I've now put a new mainspring in and the amplitude is much improved, all readings are great. There is something not quite right with it, but as it's working so well I'm just going to leave it alone for now.
  8. Yes, I tried that, it just loses time and then goes completely haywire. What's puzzling is the fact that it is working perfectly when the regulator is adjusted to this extreme position. That's why I wondered if it could have had the hairspring replaced, but I don't know if a watch would work that well if that was the case.
  9. I would think it a bit strange if the regulator is meant to be in that position. It makes a very large gap between the stud and regulator pins, and also would mean the timing is only adjustable to make the watch run slower.
  10. Hi I've got a nice Allaine watch with a Felsa 4007n movement. The watch runs well in 4 positions, amplitude a bit low so I'm checking the train and mainspring, but beat error is 0.2 or less and time consistent within a couple secs -/+. However to achieve this the regulator is completely over on the + side - hopefully you can see on the photos. What would cause this, incorrect replacement haispring perhaps? As I said it does run well and consistently, but I like to do as good a job as I can and this doesn't look right. Thanks Stephen
  11. I'm not sure whether it's discontinued, or just an older model as the construction is different. Anyway I would think all the fittings are the same size. The description for your model actually lists 6012-SD as an accessory, so I assume it will be correct for the 8935, there is no newer version of this piece. S.pdf
  12. No, the part number I gave was 6012-SD. This is 6012-SD: 7058 7059 7060.pdf
  13. Do you mean the plates? That's not what I referred to - Cousins don't sell the part number I mentioned as far as I can see. It fits on the end of one of the stakes and looks like it is adjustable. Was originally for a different press but I imagine it would fit. Stephen
  14. Hi I know it's not what you were looking for but did you know Bergeon sell an offset stake attachment for small seconds/chronograph hands, 6012-SD? I imagine that would do the job on any of their hand setting tools, but who knows what it would cost! Stephen
  15. Hi As stated there are methods for removing the staff with a staking set and various balance staff removal tools or the Bergeon Platax tool, but neither are recommended because of the possible distortion to the balance. Many people still do it though as it is often works fine. The recommended ways are to cut the balance out on a lathe or grind the hub away. Bergeon (who else!) used to sell a machine for this - Molfres 5482. I suppose it may be possible to do this with a rotary tool, but you would need a steady hand ;). Even so, as already pointed out you would still need a staking set to properly insert the new staff. Stephen