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  1. I love the US based vendors like ofrei, and esslinger but do shop around. It has been cheaper for me to order from abroad and have it expedited to the USA. Usually it saves me anywhere from $100-200. Which makes me think our supply houses here are quite inflated with pricing. has some horotec screwdrivers. And they are a wonderful vendor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Fascinating! Thank you! Anyone else own one of these Rowena watches? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Greetings, I just purchased a NOS roventa pocket watch. It comes with a ETA 6497 movement and for the price it was a great deal. So, has anybody heard of this watch brand I understand they basically case a ETA movement but I cant really find any info on them. I wonder if this company basically became Roventa-Henex SA. Any info would be great as this one is a fairly new one to me.
  4. It is a no. 5 presto tweezer. See attached: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. The lever in the 12 position is used to make the watch run faster or slower. The one at 10 is used to change the resting position of the hairspring and thus changing/managing the beat error. It makes sense that when you moved the lever in the 10 position it dragged the other as it would want to keep the relationship between them the same and therefore independent of each other. When you changed the lever at 10 you might have increased any beat error the watch might have. If it is gaining time and it has not been serviced in a while sounds to me like this watch should be serviced. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Surgical eye loupes are great if you can get use to the working distance and low magnification they don't usually have a zoom feature. I personally use a B&L stereo microscope. I use a 8x loupe occasionally like 10% of the time, but I much prefer my stereoscope which i can use at anything between 3x and 75x magnification all while not having my face directly in the movement. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. There are quite a few models of these all similar with slight differences. Usually the model on these is found near and under the balance wheel. I would really just take it out to a watchmaker and have them overhaul it. I own one of these in a pocket watch case they are quite fabulous movements and they keep good time. This is the one I own: Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. Well it seems I might have figured out what was going on with this. Firstly I took a closer look at the jewels on the balance cock and on the plate. The plate was fine the balance cock was just ever so slightly out of alignment. Once that was fixed the balance started rotating much better. After running some tests I began to notice a small tick sound which I discovered to be the balance ever so slightly rubbing on the pallet fork plate. So I fixed the balance arms so they where no longer rubbing on the plate. Re seating the roller jewel proved to be a very tedious task that I have not yet accomplished. I am awaiting a special tweezer that I hope will allow me to install the roller jewel with more precision. Will update next week. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. Yea. Physical books just take up too much space for me, but it seems with this special book I will have no other choice. Will take a closer look at the guard pin this weekend after I fix the roller jewel. There have been a great many issues I have had with this little movement trying to use the best condition gears, jewels, etc. it has been hectic. With this process I discovered that the movements are not even 90% identical the gears and jewels all have various sizes that can be dramatically different from one another. but it has been a good learning experience. Will follow up with my findings this weekend. I kinda need a break for a couple days. It has been a tiring two weeks. I swear I even dream about the possibilities of why it is not ticking... hopefully fresh eyes will do some good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. The impulse jewel was loose but don't think that will solve this. Will fix that as soon as I can get my hands on a roller remover to properly fix it. The balance moves nicely till it comes in contact with the pallet fork perhaps the guard pin is causing some sort of friction? Too high too low? Don't know will have to examine somehow.. if the guard pin is too high do I just move the roller table up on the balance staff? Been working on this one for the last two weeks now for about 5 hours a day before I decided to ask for help, but it is kinda driving me crazy now. I have a copy of De Carle's Practical Watch Repairing and the John Tope's Watch Repairing course. I need to get myself a copy of Fried's book I just wish it was available in digital form. I highly dislike having physical books.. Thanks for the help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Greetings to you all. I have been restoring my Hamilton 912 pocket watch using some part movements. I have replaced all the jewels, installed new mainspring and installed a new hairspring. I have been having trouble getting the watch to start. The mainspring is pushing power through the entire train with the pallet fork removed, but for some reason it is not starting the balance. Any ideas? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. Yep just 1. A Waltham p.s Bartlett 1857. Thanks everyone! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. You are correct the ones of a different color are rubbed in. Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Yep figured all that out a bit ago thanks. I think these are rubbed in jewels since they would not stay on after pressing them back in. Can anyone confirm? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. Yes the spring will snap if made to hug the arbor without the method I described. It will only bend so much before breaking. I took out my test spring after reading the above comments and really started to abuse it as much as I could think of. Twisting the end bending it back and forth many times. It was very strong I am applying quite a lot of force to do this as it has become much stronger. yet it is able to bend in on itself without snapping. I suppose time will tell how well or horrible this actually is. I completely agree that Anliv's comment has merit as it is completely true with the old blue steel springs I tried it on. But for some reason it has a slight different effect with the Swiss alloy using gentle heat. Well perhaps after a couple months/years I can report back on the method and get some sort of conclusion. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk