oli

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  1. I can second that, i bought one a few months ago (with low expectations given the price) and it is doing just the job
  2. Could not agree more, not a good watch to get started on, they were not designed to be dismantled. It is possible to take them apart (I have done one before, stripping everything down except the parts riveted together), but you will find it difficult to put back together. On the one I worked on (see pic) all wheels were on the same plate (with no separate bridges so all wheels have to be perfectly aligned- not ideal for a novice) a good movement to start on would be a unitas / eta 6497, or chinese equivalent to keep cost down for reading, i would suggest Decarle' s Practical watch repairing, i come back to it all the time!
  3. Hi I use the Swiss style, bought from CousinsUK and I am very pleased with it. It was delivered looking slightly different to the pictures on the cousins website, but does the job just as well. the cups are very hard which is definitely an advantage over plastic. the cups are fixed with double sided tape on the stand, so once you remove the cups it is best to replace the tape so the cups are fixed properly (i use dial adhesive spots) Picture if that helps...
  4. Cousins sell 2 different dial enamel compounds (AF Swiss or Bergeon). i have not been brave enough to try them yet, but would like to give it a go at some point. There are also cold enamelling kits available to the jewellery trade, I wonder if this could work on watch dials.
  5. Sorry I cannot answer your question directly, but I thought I would share my experience as it could be relevant. Very much like you, I once worked on a watch which I could not get to run properly. I spent ages looking for the causes, no obvious issue with escapement, pivots, jewels, train was nice and free etc... disassembled, cleaned again, re lubricated, no more luck. After I changed the mainspring the watch worked perfectly. It turned out that the wrong mainspring had previously been fitted (slightly greater width) hence the power was not transmitting properly. It might be worth checking this - never take it for granted that a watch has the correct parts before you start working on it! It may not be an elasticity issue after all!
  6. Have you established whether the hands are loose?
  7. You can always use old fluid for case and bracelets if you have a separate jar
  8. Ditto here, case and bracelets go in the ultrasonic with washing liquid. I only use the cleaning solution for movement parts. Despite pre-cleaning most parts in Renata essence and pegging jewel holes, I still find sediments in my cleaning solution after a few cycles (not a lot, but i don't like the idea of cleaning watch parts in fluid that is anything but perfectly clean!).
  9. I should have mentioned, I was talking about fluid for cleaning machine, which is a bit more expensive than that. Thank you very much oldhippy, that is really helpful (as always! - I really appreciate you sharing your experience!) I am going to give that a go
  10. Sorry I can't help, but just wanted to say it really looks great!
  11. I am looking for some advice to extend the life of my cleaning fluid. Over time I find that I have particles settling at the bottom of the solution. Do any of you filter your cleaning solutions? If so what do you use? I was thinking coffee filter paper would probably do a good job, but could paper dust residue contaminate the solution, in which case it would defeat the object... many thanks in advance
  12. Well that didn't go well! i removed the stud, but as I straightened the spring it broke near where it was secured by the pin (it was very bent/ damaged). So I am back to square one, as i have pretty much the same length of hairspring as before I started. i have just bought another identical clock on ebay, so it will be interesting to see what the hairspring is like on this one!
  13. Thank you gents I am going to move the pinning point of the stud on the spring, to extent the effective length of the hairspring a little, but I get the feeling it won't be sufficient, if this does not work I really don't know what else to do, and would strongly suspect an incorrect hairspring. @ Oldhippy, the hairspring does "bounce" as you say and makes contact as it should, throughout the regulator range when the boot is closed. It is only when I open the boot fully that I get no contact on either side (At the beginning of the range of the regulator) - And the fact that the movement still runs fast despite no contact of the hairspring whatsoever with the regulator pin / boot is puzzling me: it is effectively running with the full length of the hairspring (and should be very slow) Thank you very much for your advice! I shall report back!
  14. When it happens to me I am just thankful if the lost part is still available for sale!
  15. Hi all I am working on clock with a small ABEC/ SMITHS platform escapement. It had a broken balance staff, which I have now replaced. I also fully stripped the movement, cleaned it, reassembled and lubricated it. Now the movement seems to run reasonably well in terms of amplitude and beat error, but it is very fast, even with the regulator finger in the beginning of its range (several minutes a day.) I spent a lot of time observing the escapement, and can confirm that: - the escapement is not magnetised. - the hairspring is true is and not fouling with anything - the hairspring coils looks to be in good shape, with no contact between the coil. It is clean and the coils are not sticking together. So I am at a loss to see what the issue is! I noticed that if I open the regulator boot, so that neither the pin nor the boot touch the hairspring at all, then the clock runs about right (still about 10/15 sec fast). All I can think of is that the balance is fitted with an incorrect hairspring? Is there anything else I should be looking at? Thank you very much in advance