WRT Subscriber
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  1. I am working on this lovely old waltham movement. The bush currently fitted to the 4th wheel is clearly incorrect, the diameter of the hole is much too large. I would like to replace the bush, but I cannot find any equivalent. I looked on the cousins website under watch bushes, and all the bushes I find with the correct size hole are too small in outside diameter, and when I find a suitable outside diameter then the hole in the bush is too large. No more luck looking at clock bushes. According to my measurements I need 2.50mm outside diameter, with a 0.30mm hole. I don't mind making small adjustment either to the bridge hole, or the new bush hole diameter, but so far all I have found is too far out. I would like to avoid using a friction jewel as I like to keep the watch design as intended. I would welcome any tips / guidance!
  2. Nice setup, I like that old varimatic in the background
  3. Mainspring winders are a risky purchase on ebay (I am talking from experience!) Ideally you would want to check that the tooth on the winding arbour is in good condition. If worn, the winder is useless. can't really be checked on photos, and most sellers will not be able to answer the question unless they really know what they are selling. good luck in your search anyway, they certainly make life much easier!
  4. I can second that, i bought one a few months ago (with low expectations given the price) and it is doing just the job
  5. Could not agree more, not a good watch to get started on, they were not designed to be dismantled. It is possible to take them apart (I have done one before, stripping everything down except the parts riveted together), but you will find it difficult to put back together. On the one I worked on (see pic) all wheels were on the same plate (with no separate bridges so all wheels have to be perfectly aligned- not ideal for a novice) a good movement to start on would be a unitas / eta 6497, or chinese equivalent to keep cost down for reading, i would suggest Decarle' s Practical watch repairing, i come back to it all the time!
  6. Hi I use the Swiss style, bought from CousinsUK and I am very pleased with it. It was delivered looking slightly different to the pictures on the cousins website, but does the job just as well. the cups are very hard which is definitely an advantage over plastic. the cups are fixed with double sided tape on the stand, so once you remove the cups it is best to replace the tape so the cups are fixed properly (i use dial adhesive spots) Picture if that helps...
  7. Cousins sell 2 different dial enamel compounds (AF Swiss or Bergeon). i have not been brave enough to try them yet, but would like to give it a go at some point. There are also cold enamelling kits available to the jewellery trade, I wonder if this could work on watch dials.
  8. Sorry I cannot answer your question directly, but I thought I would share my experience as it could be relevant. Very much like you, I once worked on a watch which I could not get to run properly. I spent ages looking for the causes, no obvious issue with escapement, pivots, jewels, train was nice and free etc... disassembled, cleaned again, re lubricated, no more luck. After I changed the mainspring the watch worked perfectly. It turned out that the wrong mainspring had previously been fitted (slightly greater width) hence the power was not transmitting properly. It might be worth checking this - never take it for granted that a watch has the correct parts before you start working on it! It may not be an elasticity issue after all!
  9. Have you established whether the hands are loose?
  10. You can always use old fluid for case and bracelets if you have a separate jar
  11. Ditto here, case and bracelets go in the ultrasonic with washing liquid. I only use the cleaning solution for movement parts. Despite pre-cleaning most parts in Renata essence and pegging jewel holes, I still find sediments in my cleaning solution after a few cycles (not a lot, but i don't like the idea of cleaning watch parts in fluid that is anything but perfectly clean!).
  12. I should have mentioned, I was talking about fluid for cleaning machine, which is a bit more expensive than that. Thank you very much oldhippy, that is really helpful (as always! - I really appreciate you sharing your experience!) I am going to give that a go
  13. Sorry I can't help, but just wanted to say it really looks great!
  14. I am looking for some advice to extend the life of my cleaning fluid. Over time I find that I have particles settling at the bottom of the solution. Do any of you filter your cleaning solutions? If so what do you use? I was thinking coffee filter paper would probably do a good job, but could paper dust residue contaminate the solution, in which case it would defeat the object... many thanks in advance
  15. Well that didn't go well! i removed the stud, but as I straightened the spring it broke near where it was secured by the pin (it was very bent/ damaged). So I am back to square one, as i have pretty much the same length of hairspring as before I started. i have just bought another identical clock on ebay, so it will be interesting to see what the hairspring is like on this one!