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anilv last won the day on June 20

anilv had the most liked content!


About anilv

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  • Birthday 01/01/1970

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    Cars, Bikes, reading, watches.....

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  1. And the more you mess with it, the higher the chances of it breaking due to metal fatigue. All the best! Anilv
  2. WIll this watch be worth it? Well if you really like the watch design and how it looks, then by all means go for it. If you are focusing on the 'Swiss Army' brand and hoping to recover your costs later by selling it then don't bother. This is basically a fashion brand and the quartz movements are usually less that 50Euro. This is the high side, it can be as low as 15Eur. While Swiss Army mechanical watches usually have a decent movement, you are just paying a premium for the brand. I'm not sure is Swiss Army is an actually copyrighted brand for the pocket knives as the maker is Victorinox (and also Wenger). Anilv
  3. Dial looks a bit stark, probably the lack of minute markers doesn't help. I would experiment and try to have a cross hair to break up the dial. Either use a sharpie, or even scribe the croshairs into the dial back to the metal with a sharp blade. My 2cents. Anilv
  4. True Noirrac1J, Also we have to acknowledge that Oris, which was one of the main proponents of the pin-lever (some even chronometer grade!), was one of the main forces behind the resurgence of the mechanical watch in the late 80s. Also without Sicura (another pin-lever brand), we may not have Breitling with us now. Anilv
  5. General answer. 1st step (hardening). Heat red hot and quench in oil. 2nd step (tempering). Heat but not red hot. straw is the usually quoted colour , then quench again. The problem is these processes work on larger items where the piece heats up gradually. A small part like a pivot will heat up red-hot practically instantly. You would need to set up a bed of copper shavings and heat this part on it but it pretty hit and miss. There are some good videos on hardening watch parts on youtube. A replacement would be the way to go. Anilv
  6. I remember I had to kick one off the bench as its loud tick was too distracting, Problem was they did not use jewels to save money, so they used plain holes. This in turn increased friction which required a more powerful spring. The powerful spring overcame the friction problem but led to faster wear if not serviced regularly. Anilv
  7. Hi guys, Wearing a Titoni Cosmo 22 today. Titoni was a popular brand based in Switzerland but with its primary market in Asia. It seems to be still around but not as popular as before. Their 'Airmaster' line was very popular back in the day and they also have a 'Seascoper' diver model. The early model Seascopers go for good money. I have a later one which I'll post here one of these days. I believe the original company was 'Felca' which changed its name to Titoni in the early sixties. I've had this for around 20years now. This watch was brought to me for repair but it would've have cost too much to repair (ETA 2836) as it was badly damaged by water. The owner ended up buying a new watch and this was left with me as he had no use for it. A few years later I managed to get hold of a bunch of movements off the internet and one of these was a running ETA2836. This was serviced and installed in this watch, together with the original Titoni Rotor. The dial and chapter ring were badly damaged. The blue part was touched up a bit by dabbing a sharpie on it. The black parts were the worst and these were refilled with the same sharpie. Hands escaped the carnage and still have the blue line, matching the dial. The seconds hand is not original to the watch, neither is the crown The chapter ring was totally unusable and I sanded it back to bare metal and sprayed it with some silver paint. The sharpie was again pressed into service to draw the hour marks. If I open this watch again I'll re-do it in a darker colour, it's too garish now. I'll probably replace the crown and day-wheel (damaged writing) at the same time. The case-back has the Titoni Sakura flower deeply embossed. I've not touched the movement since I serviced it and with a few shakes it was off and running. It's on an aftermarket bracelet and wears well for a large (@ 37-8mm) watch. Anilv
  8. Don't junk the crystal as a generic one may not fit well. On the one I had I had to reduce the inner edge of the generic crystal a bit to allow the inner bezel to function properly. Some movements have a full balance bridge.. these are nicer imo. Anilv
  9. You need a tool which has two 'prongs'. It seems large enough that you could sacrifice a cheap screwdriver and file the centre off the blade. Anilv
  10. Everyone starts with that first post, some will get the answer they need and we'll never hear from them again. Others will get the 'bug' and develop their knowledge and skills. These guys in turn will be sharing their skills. My take is, it is impossible to separate the wheat from the chaff. The supply of 'affordable' watch repairers is an ever dwindling number. The people who are studying in watch schools will not be looking at servicing Seikos etc at a price the regular watch collector can afford. Less people are being 'apprenticed' to a watch-maker to learn the skills. Watch repair is not a black art. All that is needed is (a) bit of mechanical aptitude, (b) patience and (c) someone to point you in the right direction. So if someone has (a) and (b).... this forum (and Mark's tutorials) can provide the (c). but we won't know from the initial post.. Anilv
  11. found this.. Amazing that someone would actually wear this. Anilv
  12. For it to resonate I would imagine the balance wheels would need to turn in opposite directions? Anilv
  13. Chinese watches. Poor quality steel, screws that break and springs that don't. They also rust. Movement spacers made of cheap plastic which did not hold the watch properly. The poor steel was also present in watch bracelets where the links were stainless steel but the pins were iron resulted in frozen links and caused bracelets to break. My experience with them was more than 10 years ago but the experience has made me avoid them when I could. The last one I looked at had a clone Miyota. Quality seemed acceptable to the extent that I was wondering if it was a licensed copy made in China. Not marked Miyota though. Anilv
  14. Hi Johnnie, I love this movement.. when you get it working you'll see that it winds super smooth and it's pretty accurate too! Does the balance swing freely? Could be it had a 'jolt' and the impulse pin came out of the fork. If this was the case the balance would stop on one side like it hit a brick wall. Its a simple enough movement. I usually keep the barrels separate. I seem to remember one being slightly different but its been a while since I worked on one. Anyway, even if they're identical its good practice to re-install them where they came from as they would have worn together. One peculiarity on this movement is how FL fixed the end of the hairspring, it is screwed to the underside of the balance bridge. To adjust the beat you have to remove the balance + bridge, loosen the holding screw (enough so there's still a bit of friction), install balance + bridge, set the beat-rate by moving the visible end of the hairspring end (you can just see a metal piece with a hole below the bridge above the balance). Remove the balance+bridge, tighten the screw fixing the hairspring end. reassemble. The beauty of this arrangement is that it will not move if the watch is dropped. Anilv
  15. Hi vinn3, I find capped jewels easier as the jewel is usually dished on the inner side, allowing the pivot to be guided into its hole. Of course, the cap jewels need to be installed first. Anilv