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About digginstony

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    WRT Addict
  • Birthday 11/25/1959

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  1. Congratulations and very well done[emoji4] Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  2. Interesting regards oil shelf life. Synthetic has practically replaced the old type oils. I wouldn't rush to dispose of your surplus d5. I would be happy to use in 2017 and service the movement or inspect it 3 years later. As a hobby where low volume of oils is going to be used, mobius 9104 is a far better choice than d5. It's suitable for all d5 applications and is fully synthectic and is good for 5 to 7 years at least. I sort of think regards shelf life while the oil is reducing friction, lubricating, not gumming up, it's good to go. I suspect specific shelf life is more to do with marketing ploys than reality but it shouldn't be ignored Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  3. I've had the best results with UV glue Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  4. I have one without the pendulum. If I remember correctly. When I replaced battery it stopped chiming when I advanced the time. Turned it off and back on again and was fine and must of had clock for a good couple of years now [emoji4][emoji4] Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  5. Congratulations for getting the movement working. I wrecked the cylinder movement i came across. Took the balance off and the watch unwound. Never did work properly again. Take the advice and work on more recent movements with availability of spare parts. Also it's your hobby, the failures just make the successes better ! As Oldhippy said what are apprenticeships for and to master, can take a lifetime. I used to get upset, think this is more to do with pride than reality. Now I just laugh the "Screw Ups" off and move onto the next project. Enjoy your hobby and when things do go wrong, spare a thought for the "Professional " if they screw up, it doesn't only have financial consequences but damaged reputation! Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  6. Could the clock been exposed to any magnetic force. Must be worth a look at the hairspring to see if any "Crud" has found its way between the spring coils? The carving on the case looks really nice. Could it be French or Austrian with those eagles. Looks Frenchy to me ? Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  7. It must be the 700 series. I believe the 7s26 was introduced in 1996. The first numbers on your case back should tell you the movement ie.. 7009A- ???? Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  8. You've done a great job don't get to preoccupied with amplitude on old pocket watches. I was told by a friend with far more knowledge than me on Walthams that 270° swing was pretty much the factory standard ? of the day and an amplitude of 180 isn't that bad for these old watches. As said + or - a few minutes a day on these time pieces is common. Checking for variation of amplitude in different positions is very useful, assessing the condition of the movement. Rates of amplitude, well different manufacturers have different ideas. The Swiss tend to favour higher rates of amplitude then their Japanese counterparts in the belief of greater accuracy of timekeeping. It comes at a cost normally. With the potential of higher rates of wear and more frequent servicing. Now let's consider the virtual indestructible Seiko 7s26 and the abuse this movement can take before stopping. Factory Fresh you can expect an amplitude in its optimum position of around 260 and dropping to no less than 240 in all other positions. As said that's brand new. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  9. I only see 180°. Take the red dot as the central point of rotation. It oscillates 180° returns to its central point and reverses 180° Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  10. No if you watch the video again. The balance rotates to 180° and reverses 180°. When I've tried this I'm probably near but with a mark and ultra Violet light you should be able to be precise.i evaluated my Waltham at 40 lift angle but it could be more. Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  11. That's really great stuff. I will save info in Pdf. I've tried prior to set the balance rotation to 180° and adjust timegrapher. Not being the brightest flame in the fire, never thought to mark wheel arm and use ultra Violet light. Couldn't really see what was going on. Many thanks. This is why I really like the forum, you can learn so much and useful tips Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  12. Oh and that micro adjuster should be in the middle I must of caught it when opening the back but it's been one those weeks Anyway. Hopefully it shows without the correct tech info regards lift angle you will do just as well studying the swing of the balance regards amplitude than info given by a timegrapher Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  13. Most modern movements lift angle is I believe falls around the 48° to 54° so using the preset 52 on a timegrapher will give an accurate measurement of amplitude. Not so with older movement's. It's important to know the appropriate lift angle if we're going to take the information given from the timegrapher seriously. I serviced this old pocket watch a few years ago long before I owned a timegrapher and thought I had everything perfect. The timegrapher tells a different story as regards "Beat error " So they have their uses even on old movement's. The first reading is on the preset 52° The second is at 40° Which is probably about right for this 102 year old Waltham. As can be seen the variation is quite dramatic, with regard amplitude. Though in practical terms this watch is an excellent timekeeper for its period, loosing around 10 to 15 seconds a day. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  14. If you like the series you'll love the cup Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  15. Confused yep. From Walthams the movement leaving the factory in new condition after quality inspection, would, as I was told by an enthusiast, be expected as regards the arc of the balance wheel arm be expected to reach 270 degrees. This was in the says of electronics or even airplanes! Fine tuning of beat was after adjustments made, done by the regulators ear! Listening to the movement. It's very unfair to compare normal present day watches to old vintage pieces of 100 years old or so. Regards amplitude and timegrapher on these old pocket watch movements, it's more appropriate to set the lift angle to 40° than the preset 52° Which will I believe bring the amplitude down to a more accurate figure, if indeed, amplitude even concerns you on these lovely old movement's. As for assessments made with a timegrapher on low amplitude movement's. The timegrapher still has its uses and I'm referring more to studying the dotted lines as the movement is placed in different positions. Though anything readings assessed with an amplitude of less than 180 should be taken with a pinch of salt. Personally I'm more than happy with my old pocket watches if they still tick after being wound. If the OPs balance wheel arm is rotating to 270 degrees . To me he almost certainly has a great watch in great condition. The above is my humble opinion and as the saying goes " Opinions are like **BLEEP**holes, everybody has one." Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk