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digginstony last won the day on January 4

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About digginstony

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  • Birthday 11/25/1959

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  1. Many thanks JohnR725 for your time and trouble replying to my question and information provided [emoji4] Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  2. I'm only a hobbyist so please ignore any ignorance shown but in other threads when magnetism is referred too its always in the context of the watch running fast. I assume this is the hairspring becoming magnetised and the coils sticking together. Are there other parts of the watch that can be effected and what are the sort of symptoms displayed ? Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  3. Yes please report back with any data, as and when. Very interesting Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  4. Tempering is far more desirable than case Hardening but is normally done over a long period of time as opposed to bringing steel to cherry red and dipping into solution (Even Water). I think your conclusion is sound but it seems you are making the alloy more pliable by gentle heat. The term alloy is deceptive anyway as steel is an alloy derived from iron. I have no idea of the compounds used in Swiss alloy it may have chromium and nickle and something even non ferrous but couldn't say. Interesting if anyone Knows? Anliv comments are also valid as some compounds when heat applied can reverse the hardening effect it really depends on the constituents that your dealing with. Over heating will cause the metal to crystallise and will fail long before its expected stress level. Ive never had a mainspring I haven't had to fiddle with a bit in a mainspring winder. I wouldn't of thought what you're doing would have any negative effect on the hardness of the spring yet if no heat applied you're saying the spring can snap? When case Hardening steel it's most pliable in its cherry hot state and only forms a hard layer during the cooling process. You may be reaching a happy medium with what your doing and I wouldn't have any concerns unless springs started snapping on me [emoji4] Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  5. I suspect your Dumostar may have a higher nickle content to achieve their hardness. As previously mentioned, EN21 steel retains flexibility or to be more precise elasticity but derives strength through its nickle content Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  6. You'll find the most experienced watchmaker will need to re-shape (Dress) his tweezers and they apply their craft to this in a most proficient and expert way and is an essential skill that needs to be learnt. [emoji4] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  7. That's funny [emoji2] Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  8. Or to be specific with tweezers employing cheap steel. They would have to be much thicker than tweezers using a quality steel to retain there shape and generally are clumsy. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  9. In this context it refers to the ability to retain shape under normal and unforseen circumstances. Cheap steel has no flexibility to return to shape so constant maintenance would be required. English gunmakers prefer a mild steel (EN21) in their gun barrels! Though this quality steel enjoys a great deal of flexibility to return to shape even when pushed beyond its normal working pressure. Due to faulty ammunition. German makers tended to use a much harder steel. Though could shatter with fatal consequences when pushed beyond its normal working pressure. This rarely happened . It's all a question of getting the right balance. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  10. I can see why you would do that. Stainless incase something doesn't come out or off the way it should and brass minimising risk of scratches and damaged to tweezers. That's very clever ! I will adopt this myself with my brass tweezers. Many thanks for your reply Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  11. Whilst engaged in another thread a question kept coming to mind but it didn't really belong there. So I'll ask here. With tweezers do you prefer stainless steel or high quality carbon steel ? Or do people not really care. My own preference is carbon steel because it will retain its shape well and when "stressed" is easily corrected, which is not the case with stainless Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  12. Sorry that should of been calender jumper spring Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  13. The movement was acquired from a car boot sale in a poor state for £10. I do have a couple of other 7009A movements and 1 being in good condition but I lost the day jumper spring when servicing! So I will exchange the spring from this movement (and be more careful) Also the rotar is very good so I'm very happy with the purchase. Tony Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  14. I can't really say what particular other movements employ this spacer or to be probably more correct "A 2 piece movement holder" I do know the later 7s26 movements employ a single movement ring and the dial fits into this as opposed to the movement itself. In my opinion a much improved design. If on your 5 you remove the movement from the case, you will be able to remove the first movement ring from the rear. Then you will see the second ring lodged between the movement and the dial. It's function is to allow enough space for the complications to work freely and not jam. Careful examination even with some magnification, you will see faint crack lines on the spacer. Hope this answers your question Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  15. Im sure I have a spare dial for this somewhere. I'm not sure what I want to do with this movement. My timegrapher indicates wear. Low amplitude and a scatter pattern when not in the dial up or down position , so something in the escapement is touching. Hairspring looks good and not touching anything. Movement fitted with a 7s26 rotar as well which is good (gold dust) Think I'm going to keep it for parts. It's seen better days. Many thanks though Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk