digginstony

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digginstony last won the day on April 27

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About digginstony

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  • Birthday 11/25/1959

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  1. Lovely watch with a nice clean movement [emoji4] Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  2. I would absolutely recommend Bergeon which is what I use. But I have a set of six Anchor drivers I bought some years ago which I can't fault in anyway Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  3. I can't see an issue arising from this tool. The pins in a bracelet has to be or is desirable to be of softer material than the links . Otherwise wear would ocur on the link holes . Even if the tool bits are soft it should be a simple process to re-shape them. Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  4. Hands up.. I've used a smooth broach to remove a stubborn bit of crud from a jewel hole but it's not an acceptable practice and is very risky. The problem is the last thing you want to be doing, is attempting to ream the hole but more problematic is the jewel being very hard. So if the broach isn't maintained absolutely vertical during the process, the jewel is almost certainly going to chip. The problem you may encounter with bamboo is its a harder substance on its outer skin than pegwood. So it may give the impression of having a finer edge after shaping but will be far less pliable than pegwood when attempting to clean the jewel hole. Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  5. Out walking the dog's and came across this gate. No spring required to to auto shut. Just a chain and weight. Brilliant idea ! Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  6. Can definitely leave your thumbs sore after loading a strong mainspring by hand [emoji4] Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  7. I believe the OP has also changed the pallet fork or stones and the escape wheel (which is where I suspected the fault lied) to no avail. The watch is only a couple of years old and wouldn't of expected trouble of this sort with a Seiko. I note the OP states that he had the watch running within a couple of seconds a day so I make the assumption the case back has been off and regulated and the movement could of been contaminated at this point. If the timegrapher is still displaying fluctuations of amplitude and a wavy pattern , personally I would be stripping and cleaning the whole movement and considering replacement parts have failed to rectify the fault, checking each wheel, starting at the escapement and working back through the train and mainspring barrel, for wear or damage but more particular "Side Shake" which should not exceed one third of the diameter of the pivot. Surely replacing the movement is a legitimate repair under the circumstances and expedient as Folkvisor stated. We're not talking about great deal of expenditure. Anyway best of luck to the OP whichever route he decides to take and please keep us updated, particularly if you locate and fix the problem Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  8. As Clockboy pointed out it only takes the smallest of faults to slow or stop a watch working. You're going to need to strip the entire movement and check every pivot for straightness and inspect jewels. Also throughly clean all parts. If the movement is -30 then -96 then going up, it's pointless attempting any regulation. If the back of the watch has been removed previously to the fault occurring this may be due to ingress of dirt. Note how Mark on his videos where's a white cotton or linen coat. If your leaning directly over the movement with a woolly jumper on you might be horrified how much dust can be deposited into the movement. It could only take one grain of sand to find its way in to cause serious damage over a short period of time. A Seiko movement fresh from the factory should have an amplitude of around 260 dropping to 240 in positional variations. Obviously after some usage that amplitude can drop and 220 is not an unrealistic figure. Accuracy and limitations of the movement... if one of my Seikos were running +/- 10 to 15 seconds I personally wouldn't remove the case back to regulate and risk compromising the integrity of a new watch unless I had another reason to be removing the case back. High quality wrist watch movements are adjusted, normally in five positions (this is not regulating) and is done by the watchmaker, making adjustment to the balance wheel, hairspring etc, and they are normally at the top of their profession. This work is expensive and contribute to the cost of such watches like Rolex. Seiko I believe are adjusted to one position (dial up) which contributes to them maintaining their products at a competitive price. Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  9. If the fault isn't in the escapement and it's not magnetised you have a bent pivot or damaged jewel somewhere. Or accelerated wear for some reason. If you're not undertaking the work as part of a learning process, personally I would take Jdm's advice earlier in the thread and swap the movement "Life's too short" What I can't understand is when you replaced the balance and all was good and then it went bad again ? Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  10. Walthams can also slip on the centre arbor as well, especially if a little wear is present. Make sure it's a snug fit Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  11. Here's another. No its not the Rolex circa 1931 perpetual automatic design. See the date Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  12. A pie pan dial and a domed acrylic crystal. Now that's elegance [emoji4] Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  13. The Maurice Lacroix would be my choice but it's going to set you back about £2600.00 Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  14. Here's a couple and then for something a little more affordable (Ingersoll) Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
  15. Got this gmt for £74 off Amazon. It's not that bad . 300m water resistant and fitted with a TY2846 movement. Not upto eta or seiko but not too bad with a 35 second variation on one position but 5 others with less than 20 seconds. Amplitude a bit on the low side. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk