StuartBaker104

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About StuartBaker104

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    Mostly wristwatches and the occasional clock. Love a new challenge.

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  1. Info on setting in beat can be found here: https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=iClWAAAAcAAJ&printsec=frontcover#v=onepage&q&f=false If things haven't been messed about with, if you remove the escape wheel and just fit the balance, you would normally find that when the escapement is set in beat the pin on the outside of the balance wheel will sit on the extended centre line which runs through the balance jewel and the escape wheel jewel. You've hopefully worked this out already, but always make sure you have released the power from the mainspring before removing the balance! Pictures here http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogcylinder.php
  2. Ok, I give up, quiz over, you can tell us now! I understand why clockboy went for the 922, but this appears to be a cylinder movement. Ernst Westphal has a great selection of vintage catalogues, including one that shows pages of 10.5'" rocker bar cylinder movements all together, but I can't spot this one anywhere. AS movements in this category are 175, 467, 740, 760, 937, 960, 1086 My advice would be to look at the drawings for AS on windingstems.com and pick the one that appears to be the closest fit to the other parts you have You may be able to find some older movement catalogues, but yours definitely isn't in any of the ones I know of on-line
  3. I recently landed an original faceplate for my boley and leinen lathe, but it doesn't have any clamps with it. Been trying to work out a solution without spending too much, and the best I've come up with so far is to modify some of these http://www.faithfulltools.com/p/FAITMC114/Toolmakers-Clamps#_ ...unless anyone has any better ideas or practical experience.
  4. What is the spacing of the holes Dan? I don't know where you'll find the "right" tool, but there are a number of options... Searching for TH3 security screwdriver will get you 3.35mm between the outer edges of the holes. TH4 is 4.45 You could try a pair of mini circlip pliers, or a pair of dividers. You could make your own - take a sort strip of steel, bend over one end and file a slot then round the edges to make 2 pins. Or if you wanted to take the crude approach, 2 tapered clock pins cut to fit snugly in each hole and a pair of pliers.
  5. Is the setting lever sprung? Can you lift it out of the slot in the stem with a screwdriver?
  6. I'm an option 1, to prevent any possible damage to the pivots. I usually place the assembly on a soft worksurface to then turn over. I like to think I am not one of the elderly though... S
  7. I use one of these and I'm very happy with it http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WATCHMAKERS-LATHE-120W-CLOCKWISE-ROTATION-MOTOR-CONTROL-PEDAL-Lathe-not-incl-/351817207808?hash=item51e9f09000 S
  8. If you pull the stem to the time setting position does this give you enough freedom to turn the movement over?
  9. Transporter - if you pm me with an email address I will send you some info about cylinder escapements. Stuart
  10. The gap between the regulator pins should normally be just greater than the thickness of the hairspring, but I doubt this is your problem here. When you say you changed the hairspring, where did you get the new one from? Did it come from another old balance or from a new balance? Either way the hairspring will need to be matched to the balance wheel, and with an overcoil spring that is somewhat harder than with a flat spring. I doubt you will have enough adjustment on the regulator to correct the error you have. Your timegrapher will likely only record up to 999 sec/day error, so you may be worse than that, but you will need to adjust the pinning point to shorten the spring. This will also likely mean the overcoil is in the wrong place, which is an advanced problem to fix. Do you have the balance that matches your new hairspring?
  11. There is more here than I will ever need to know about mainsprings... http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogmainsprings.php, but I also read somewhere once that the height of the spring should be 0.2mm less than the height of the space in the barrel, although this is not easy to measure in practice. The GR catalogue lists 2 different sizes for a cal 27; on the last page of this link https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/7813_GR Pages 171 - 180.pdf and the first page of this one https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/7814_GR Pages 181 - 190.pdf. Cousins parts finder for the 27 recommends the GR3515 In practice I would follow the advice which Frank gives above. Modern alloy springs tend to give slightly more power than their historical steel counterparts. So where you have a choice, go for thinner raher than thicker. The possible length is then an outcome of the available space per the first link above, and a longer spring will give more power reserve.
  12. Rogart, I see original part here http://www.thewatchsite.com/8-seiko-citizen-trading-post/250138-f-s-seiko-lord-marvel-36-000-restore-set-nos-50-a.html or here http://stsupplyonline.com/catalog/5740c-main-spring-p-27145.html or here http://www.julesborel.com/s.nl/it.A/id.22222/.f
  13. It helps to have an approx measurement to start with, 26mm is the most likely unless it's a really big watch. There is a list here to confirm https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/chinese-movement-list and a catalogue here https://www.cousinsuk.com/document/product/chinese-movement-list, but I don't see auto, 3 hands, no date as an option
  14. You are both 100% correct. I could have stood and looked at that all day, but I felt like a kid in a sweet shop... so much to look at but my son was going to get impatient!
  15. What measures do you want to check? Usually I would satrt from the dimensions to work out the calibre! It looks like a DG3806 series, which would be 26mm in diameter. Does it have a small seconds dial or centre seconds?