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StuartBaker104

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StuartBaker104 last won the day on January 7

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About StuartBaker104

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    Mostly wristwatches and the occasional clock. Love a new challenge.

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  1. Just found three of those but decided to buy them for myself, my brother and my Dad. Will let you know when I see more
  2. I love the thrill of the chase... John Senior has one for £1.75 plus postage: http://www.obsoletewatchandclockparts.com/430-click-spring.htm Seiko 66a uses the same part, as do many other seikos: http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=T_bG]JS
  3. Have you got a picture? What is this on? An old pocket watch?
  4. That'll be a chinese TY2867 then. The movement costs £25 plus postage from Cousins, and the only spare parts on sale are stems. So I guess a watchmaker is going to charge double that, plus VAT, plus 2-3 hours labour with the fiddling of adjusting hands, dial and stem to fit (ask me how I know). Parts are unlikely to be interchangeable between movements as what is ostensibly a standard movement is made by different factories to their own tolerances and minor variations. If you can do any work yourself then fine, and with the above info, the repair shop may (or may not) be more helpful, but these watches are available new on ebay for £150 - £200, so might not really be worth repairing.
  5. Jules Borel is showing them in stock
  6. There are 5 different heights for the cannon pinion. Jules Borel lists the "where used" if you click on the appropriate part. http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=ETA_2451 I've no idea why parts lists don't show jewels... you just have to measure up and buy standard parts. If you need them individually Then obsoletewatchandclockparts is often cheaper.
  7. Verging on a new thread here, but still pw mainspring related. You can use the GR catalogue on Cousins site https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/7815_GR Pages 191 - 200.pdf but you will need the movement type which you should get from here https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/guide/company/waltham/serial-number-lookup if that doesn't get you there then post more details, or search at NAWCC.
  8. I always find Jules Borel useful in these situations. http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=OME_565 Just click on a part to see where else it is used, but you will see here 2 versions of the date change wheel - with and without the finger attached.
  9. I assume the train bridge is actually one part, made to look like 3. You're going to struggle to claim on that case wear warranty - I suspect it is slightly more than 10 years old!
  10. Ok, so for a 14mm barrel, the calculator says the mean spring thickness would be 0.17mm and length 439mm. A 0.24 thick spring will give more power, but will have to be shorter to fit the barrel, and is only going to give you 4.5 turns, so unlikely to run for more than 20 hours or so. You aren't going to find a spring this size so you would need to cut one down to get this if you really want to. I would be inclined to use the thinner spring which will give you the right number of turns. Cousins search is working again now... not sure if it was me or them. There are very few 1.95 high springs, so in the 1.9 range, GR5607 is your closest bet, assuming you need a regular hooked bridle end spring, or you could use 5616 which is slightly thicker at 0.18mm. I would still check the barrel depth to make sure you can't fit a higher spring. If a 2.0 will comfortably fit then you could go for GR5853
  11. Bit confused, Cousin's search tool doesn't seem to be working right now, but you can see what they have here https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/upto-200mm-height More confusing are the dimensions you have given. Is this a regular 30-40 hour lever escapement pocket watch, or an 8 day watch? A 41mm barrel is the size of a watch, and whatever the barrel size, 300mm sounds short. You may find that you don't have the right spring fitted, and you need to work out what should be in there. There is an excellent expanation of how to do that here http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogmainsprings.php. I can't remember if it tells you but you need a spring heith with about 0.2mm clearance to the internal barrel depth. Photos would help if you need more advice, and we all love to see them anyway.
  12. Ideal magnification (imho) is 10x eyepieces with a variable multiplier of x0.7 to x4 on the scope head. Then by fitting a 0.5x "barlow" lens under the objective you get 3.5x to 20x with a working distance of about 6". The barlow lens is key to getting the working distance sensible. If you need more magnification it can always be removed for a while. I have to take my specs off even with rubbber eye cups. A ring light, like the one above is the best choice, and a boom stand means you can use it with a lathe too. Ideally, if this allows the head to be set at an angle, it gives a better view for assembly without tilting your watch than the fully overhead arrangement.
  13. I stand corrected on the servicing, see document link here
  14. The first 5 digits relate to the model number, the next 2 the movement and the last 2 the date of manufacture (1973). The movements were not intended to be serviced and parts are virtually unobtainable, but if you'd asked last week, you could have bougt this for it http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-TIMEX-Replacement-Watch-Movement-M-25-In-Original-Container-/381990989165?hash=item58f06fed6d:g:HMcAAOSwopRYkkwH If you want to get it going then I suggest either looking out for a donor with a stem, or fitting a Chinese movement.