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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/20/17 in all areas

  1. Everyone starts with that first post, some will get the answer they need and we'll never hear from them again. Others will get the 'bug' and develop their knowledge and skills. These guys in turn will be sharing their skills. My take is, it is impossible to separate the wheat from the chaff. The supply of 'affordable' watch repairers is an ever dwindling number. The people who are studying in watch schools will not be looking at servicing Seikos etc at a price the regular watch collector can afford. Less people are being 'apprenticed' to a watch-maker to learn the skills. Watch repair is not a black art. All that is needed is (a) bit of mechanical aptitude, (b) patience and (c) someone to point you in the right direction. So if someone has (a) and (b).... this forum (and Mark's tutorials) can provide the (c). but we won't know from the initial post.. Anilv
    3 points
  2. Hi Ry. Two mainsprings well that's a one in two chance of making a pigs ear of it LOL. I will try and read up on this movement before I touch it. Will Google it and see if anything useful comes up about it. Best wishes Johnnie
    2 points
  3. Yes the "machinery handbook" also has "metric threads" and "whitworth" if you are working on a Brit bicycle or an early M.G.. vin
    1 point
  4. I've lost the original information but as I recall VERY small and "Diameter tolerance: ±0.001mm". I'll mail him now and ask. What I really need is an estimate of the range and spread of useful sizes. Most seem to be sub-1mm but they will assemble a set to spec and box it. Suggestions of sizes please. I'd be happy to re-order once I've checked it out and maybe buy a few for resale (not a commercially motivated idea!!!) Roy
    1 point
  5. "in the old days" the hobbyist, would go to the local library first for an answer, a machinist would go to the tech. manual. why in the heck, can't these kids use the internet? vin
    1 point
  6. I have a lot of very elderly Swiss watches and a lesser number of US brands. At present, as a novice, I'm sticking to those that are relatively easy to fix or else have such low value that the outcome doesn't matter. However I just located a supplier who is prepared to make up a boxed set of pins in whatever sizes I need. All the sets I see on the bay contain a vast range of sizes, the majority of which don't have much relevance to watch movements. I'm going to order a sample set, which may be of interest to people here. What would be very useful would be a suggestion about the most generally useful range. Someone here has already posted a suggestion about screw sizes but I may as well order a set containing a representative selection. I'd appreciate a suggestion as to a modest set of useful metric (for the moment) sizes. If I get it made up it will be an easy matter to repeat or anyone who needs it. Roy
    1 point
  7. I want that "Harry Potter" screwdriver that removes screws without touching them!
    1 point
  8. The source is the YouTuber I linked to: Scrappygearz
    1 point
  9. What watches do you usually work one? For Amercian made watches pre 1950 try and find yourself a copy of the 'Illustrated Manual of Amercian Watch Movements' by the E & J Swigart Co. They turn up regulary on ebay US and it lists all the screw sizes used in Elgin and Waltham movements plus some other American movements which is very useful for working up what size screw you need for these watches.
    1 point
  10. When I regulate my own watches, I do dial up and crown down, and try and get it so that the watch will run a tad fast.
    1 point
  11. Hi Johnnie, I love this movement.. when you get it working you'll see that it winds super smooth and it's pretty accurate too! Does the balance swing freely? Could be it had a 'jolt' and the impulse pin came out of the fork. If this was the case the balance would stop on one side like it hit a brick wall. Its a simple enough movement. I usually keep the barrels separate. I seem to remember one being slightly different but its been a while since I worked on one. Anyway, even if they're identical its good practice to re-install them where they came from as they would have worn together. One peculiarity on this movement is how FL fixed the end of the hairspring, it is screwed to the underside of the balance bridge. To adjust the beat you have to remove the balance + bridge, loosen the holding screw (enough so there's still a bit of friction), install balance + bridge, set the beat-rate by moving the visible end of the hairspring end (you can just see a metal piece with a hole below the bridge above the balance). Remove the balance+bridge, tighten the screw fixing the hairspring end. reassemble. The beauty of this arrangement is that it will not move if the watch is dropped. Anilv
    1 point
  12. Unconventional approach... have you tried holding the winding pinion still and unscrewing the crown? If you do this then push the stem in you may have enough freedom to remove from the case
    1 point
  13. I try and answer as many as I can with the knowledge I have. However some questions I don't because I did not have the knowledge and do not always have time to do the necessary research. Some questions are repeated such as "what lubricants should I use" "what is the best starter kit" etc but the answers to these can be found by simply using the search bar. It is annoying sometimes when answering a question but no feedback is given whether the answer helped.
    1 point
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