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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/11/17 in all areas

  1. Just purchased a vintage demagnitizer and it did not work. So into the guts I went. I disassembled the demagnitizer and found that one of the power leads that was previously soldered to a plate had detached. So to repair it, I drilled a hole in the plate and prepped the cable (cleaned) into the hole; then soldered it into place. It now works. Discount on next purchase:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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  2. NOw that is what I call vintage....cool....
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  3. Scuba divers only need to know how many minutes they have used. Set the bezel pointer to where the minute hand is, you'll know how much time you have spent underwater. Knowing how long your tanks can last you can decide when you need to surface. The uni-directional is a fail-safe device, if you accidentally move it, you can only move i counter-clockwise. This means it will show that you have spent "more" time under water. As a result, you would surface earlier if you are purely depending on the minute hand. If the bezel could move clockwise, you might end up longer underwater. As a point of interest, there are also count-down or elapsed time bezel where the numbers 0-60 run counter clockwise. Here you decide how much time you want to spend under-water, eg 10 minutes, set the bezel at the 10 minute mark and the minute hand will head progressively down to zero. Search Google images for 'count-down bezel' or 'elapsed time bezel'.. unfortunately I don't have any of these but alsways thought that made more sense for a diver. Anil
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  4. While the certificate was being sorted, none of the member's avatars were showing for me via Tapatalk so maybe. Sent from my Honor 5c
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  5. good job ! I use one of that type and one even older. the older one puts out a much stronger field. i'll enter photos in the gallery. vinn
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  6. Some times dirt gets in and around the inside of the button and it packs tight, this will prevent the button from sitting correctly to the case.
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  7. +2.5 cheapo eyeglasses from poundshop, and another pair with 20X loupe stuck on with Rodico for setting up pre-position of Accutron fingers. I found using loupe as designed it steamed up all the time causing irritation and annoyance, just when you get the damned things aligned--you couldn't see 'em anymore. All normal dissassembly and reassembly done with just the eyeglasses. Parts examination done at 20x For Indexing I use a £5 cheapo Chinese microscope 100x I modded for the job. Indexing jewels look like two house-bricks on a circular sawblade Works for me!
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  8. 20 is not much compared to some of the USA supply houses... I mostly use CousinsUK, Eternal tool (great screwdriver, and sharpener prices) then have what I need imported to the USA with expedited shipping for much much less. If it is about the same price I order locally from Kasker(great for mainsprings), and Esslinger. Sometimes I get lucky and find some tools on Micromark. I remember saving almost $150 purchasing my DE-415A demagnetizer from Micromark instead of ofrei. There is also the second hand tool shops. Uncle Larry Watch shop, and Dave's tool and watch shop. And finally I most often use eBay for vintage tools that are quite costly new. Hope that helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  9. If you are using a ultrasonic bath rather than a multi jar cleaning machine could you not use water in the bath but then place your parts in a separate container with the chosen cleaning fluid in it and put the full thing in the bath, then you could use a simular container for a rinsing fluid and just transfer the parts. Containers you put your fluids in could even have a lid on to keep the fumes under control. You can also only use a smaller amount of fluid, rather than filling the full ultrasonic with fluid.
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  10. Well I would definitely start with Moebius 9010 (for train wheels and balance endstones) and 9020 (for train wheels) if you are working on Pocket Watches. Moebius 9415 is a must for Pallet/Escape wheel teeth. A quality silicon grease. Moebius D5 is essential (barrel arbor, motion work). Molycote DX or Moebius 9501 grease for keyless work. Moebius 9501 or 9504 for high friction (e.g. Cannon pinion, Setting lever spring and anything at high friction). Moebius 8200 grease for mainspring. Moebius 8217 for barrel wall (automatic watches) It's a lot but at a minimum get 9010, 9415, D5 and 8200 I hope this helps. Recommended Lubricants for Getting Started.pdf Moebius_Oil_Chart.pdf
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