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  1. Hi Balidey, I'm new to the forum and saw this post. Look out for the G10 bug! I picked up my first G10 and within a year had CWC 1980 and 82 fat boys, an 82 and 84 precista (my fave) and then WENT A BIT MAD with the mid size fatboys and 83 and 84 and the slimmer 85, 87, 89, 90, 91, the less common 0555 marine 1995, then 97, 98, 99, a pulsar 99 short hand and then stopped! I enjoy working on them and bringing them back to their original condition. Now have sold most cos I've only 1 wrist, and kept the 80 CWC fatboy, it is in superb condition, the 84 precista, and have spent over a year souring parts - the split stem mainly - restoring a CWC W10. The rarer navigator dial came up cheap, a date window being very handy, not an issued watch but looks nice too. I think that's enough! An older photo of some below! Cheers.....
    3 points
  2. Hong Kong airport Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  3. Hi all, My humble watch collection has only been going for a couple of years now. You will see that the value of my watches is very much towards the budget end of the market, but each one has been bought because I like the look of them, but most offer really amazing bang for buck. I will get photos uploaded at some point, but for now... Seiko SKX007, my first 'proper' watch and what started to pique my interest in what a watch really is, they are so much more than a way of knowing the time. I am not a fan of the rubber straps, so this is on a green NATO strap. I loved the look and feel of this watch, but about a year ago it lost all time keeping and needs a service, so possibly going to be sorted soon. My next watch was meant to be a 'stop gap' while I figured out what to do with my Seiko. A very cheap (I think it was under £20) Pulsar quartz diver. Only bought because of it's similarity with the Seiko. It was head only, so it was paired with a green Zulu strap. This has hardly been off my wrist. It has taken some hard knocks. I then found out about G10 watches, purely by accident. Their clean lines appealed to me. And then someone on another forum had a Fat Boy for sale. A bit more than I wanted to spend, but when I got it I was very pleased with it. Again, head only, so it was put onto the green Zulu from my Pulsar diver. But that is 20mm wide, the G10 with fixed bars was a struggle every time I swapped over, so just recently I have bought a green 18mm Zulu, so the G10 is on that permanently. I don't tend to wear the G10 very often as it is the Fat Boy version. I am tempted to get a 'normal' CWC G10, but I am going to struggle justifying that to my wife.... 'no dear, this is nothing like the other watch. This one is thinner'! So I found myself wanting a Diver style watch that was nicer than the Pulsar, but not another auto. I found my next one on ebay. Pulsar Y652-9020. I fell in love with this and bid up higher than I initially intended, but still got it for a very reasonable price. It has a diver style dial, analogue and digital using the same movement as some Breitling Pluton and Chronosport. But being branded as Pulsar meant I could afford it. The only watch I have on a metal bracelet and I think it will stay on it. Again I don't wear this very often, for fear of damaging it at work. And just recently I felt I needed another Diver style watch that was nicer than my daily Pulsar, but one I won't worry about as much as my Y652. So I picked up a Veteka. From what I found out, it was a diving equipment manufacturer that had some Monnin style watches branded up with their logo, similar to Dive Dynamics. But this has a black PVD coating on the body. The watch was sold as head only and not working, just needing a new battery. New battery didn't help and looks like there is a contact missing in the battery compartment. It has a ETA 955 day / date movement, simple dial with some amazing lume. Really my sort of watch. Naturally it needed a Zulu strap, so it is on a black one. With some advice from this forum, looks like I'll be able to get it up and running soon. And that's my modest collection for now. I am on the lookout for another budget quartz diver. And that too will probably end up on a Zulu strap.
    1 point
  4. ETA 7750 Service Walkthrough The 7750 was first available in 1974, having been one of the first movements to be designed with the aid of a computer. It's hard to believe that the 7750 is still the industry standard movement for chronographs considering it's history. It was developed over 40 years ago by Valjoux, who was then a legendary movement maker that was part of the giant ASUAG conglomerate. But by the end of 1975 production was stopped due to the onslaught of the Quartz Era, and the 7750, along with many other mechanical calibers, was abandoned. Industry demand for this movement was so low that the stock produced in that 1 year manufacturing lasted until 1982! Such was the devastation of cheap Japanese produced quartz watches to Swiss manufactures. History may have forgotten the 7750 except for the local management at Zenith who ignored the orders by Valjoux to destroy the dies and equipment used to manufacture the 7750, instead hiding the equipment away from corporate eyes. You can find many more fascinating facts about this caliber online, and it's well worth the read. ................................................... This walkthrough will be very detailed, and I hope this will give people the courage to tackle this movement. I've serviced quite a few calibers, and this is one of the most beautiful, with a very logical layout. ETA7750 Tech.PDF If you have built your skills with basic movements, and become proficient in servicing them, I would highly recommend this movement to be your first chronograph to tackle. Lets begin. DEMAGNETIZE THE MOVEMENT BEFORE DISASSEMBLY. Remove the Day Indicator and store it in a safe place where it won't be damaged. Unscrew (0.8 Driver) the Jumper Maintaining Plate and remove it. Do the same for the Date Indicator Maintaining Plate Carefully remove the Jumpers Spring, holding it with a piece of pegwood so it doesn't ping away. Next remove the jumpers for the day and date. The jumpers differ from one another, so here is a reference photo so you can see the difference. Remove the Date Indicator and place it in a safe place where it won't be damaged. The last piece to remove on the Date Platform is the Double Corrector Now unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Date Platform and gentle pry it from the movement. Be careful when removing this plate, as there is a fine spring pressed into the plate that can be easily damaged. Here is a reference photo of the screws that hold the Date Platform. Remove the Hour Hammer Spring, once again using the pegwood to hold the spring while removing the tension. Here is a reference photo of the correct orientation of the spring. Remove the Hour Counter Lock. Remove the Hour Hammer Operating Lever. Next is the Hour Hammer, be careful when removing this item so as not to damage the Hour-Counting Wheel. Now remove the Hour-Counting Wheel. Remove the Date Indicator Driving Wheel Remove the Day Star Driving Wheel Then remove the Intermediate Calendar Driving Wheel Remove the Hour Wheel Then the Minute Wheel Remove the Cannon Pinion, which does not require a puller. The last component to be removed on this side of the Main Plate is the Driver Cannon Pinion. To lift the Driver Cannon Pinion I used what Mark used, a set of hand lifter from Horotec (MSA05.007); but you can also use a Presto Tool (30636-1) which will also work well. The dial side of the movement is now complete disassembled. Flip the movement over and unscrew (1.5 Driver) the Oscillating Weight. To remove the Hammer Spring lift it up gently over the automatic work and move it inwards. This will move the tail of the spring in a clockwise motion to the opening in the slots, which will free the spring. Slide out the Clutch Spring. Here is a reference photo of this spring, and it's orientation. Remove the screws (1.4 Driver) for the Automatic Device Bridge, and gently pry it loose. Here is a reference photo of these screws for the bridge. Once the Automatic Bridge has been removed, the two wheels for the automatic work are able to be removed. Below is a reference photo of how the sit inside the bridge. We now begin to disassemble the chronograph section of this movement. Begin with removing the Hammer, 2 Functions. Next remove the Clutch 60s, 2 Functions. Then remove the Minute-counting Wheel, 30min. Remove the Chronograph Wheel 60s, 30min. Gently lift out the Oscillating Pinion, 60s. Here is a reference photo of the orientation of this pinion. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Chronograph Bridge and gently pry it off the Train Wheel Bridge. Remove the Ratchet Driving Wheel. Remove the Chronograph Wheel Fiction. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Operating Lever, 2 Functions. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Lock, 2 Functions. Next remove the Minute-counter Driving Wheel, 30min. Slide out the Operating Lever Spring, 2 Functions. This spring can be fitting in both directions; but only 1 way is correct. Here is a reference photo of it's correct orientation. Remove the Switch. Here I digress from the order the SwissLab document illustrates the order of removal. They show to remove the Chronograph Cam before removing the Hammer Cam Jumper. This in my opinion is not the best way, as all the force from the jumper is pressing on the cam whilst your trying to remove it, and could lead to damage. Instead I move the Chronograph Cam until it reaches the notch as shown in the photo below. Then lift the Hammer Cam Jumper up to the top of the Chronograph Cam, which will release it's tension. Then, just as you removed the previous hammer, rotate the jumper to the opening in the slots, which will free the spring. Now you can unscrew (1.4 Driver) and remove the Chronograph Cam safely without tension on it. RELEASE THE MAINSPRING TENSION Once the tension has been released, unscrew (1.4 Driver) and remove the Balance Cock. Then unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Pallet Bridge and remove the bridge and Pallets. Unscrew (1.2 Driver) and remove the Ratchet Wheel. Then remove the Crown Wheel. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Train Wheel Bridge and gently pry it off the Main Plate. Note that one of the screws is under the Operating Lever. This needs to be moved out of the way to access this screw. The last level of this movement contains the train. Here is a reference photo of the wheel locations. Remove the Stop Lever. Remove the Great Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Remove the Third Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Remove the Second Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Note this has the long lower pivot. Remove the Escape Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Then remove the Barrel. This completes the removal of the train. Flip the movement over so we can complete the disassembly by removing the keyless work. Firstly, release the tension from the Setting Lever Jumper. Then unscrew (1.2 Driver) and remove the Setting Lever Jumper. These are unique screws with pointed ends, and below is a reference photo of them. This will also remove the Intermediate Setting Wheel. Next remove the Setting Wheel Then remove the Yoke. Remove the Setting Lever. Remove the Rocking Bar. Now pull out the Stem. Once the Stem is removed the Winding and Sliding Pinion should fall out of the movement onto your work mat. Disassembly of the 7750 is now complete If you've come this far, congratulation on completing the disassembly. Make sure you pegwood all the jewels and reinstall the Balance back onto the movement for cleaning. Assembly of the movement will be posted as soon as I complete the write-up.
    1 point
  5. The movement is a Felsa 465. Yours is a manual wind correct? Here is mine restored Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  6. See here http://glycine-watch.ch/glycine/history/, and here http://www.glycintennial.com/collection.html Looks like you do have a Glycine 72, which was an in house movement, and the watch is from the 1950s. The first link has a picture of a seemingly identical piece. The lume is most likely radium... so try not to eat it. If you need parts, then you'll probably be best off looking for a spare movement from ebay
    1 point
  7. Well, it's not pretty, 1 due to the condition of the jewel holding area prior to work and 2 no sietz jeweling tool in sight and 3 never done this before. well whilst working on this old unknown ladies size 6 (34mm plate diameter) fob watch I ascertained it needed a new mainspring, help was given on sizing as I couldn't find an exact match by a very helpful forum member Stuartbaker new mainspring fitted and then as another post in this thread mentioned I needed a replacement balance cock jewel. i took a gamble and bought a random mix from red rooster on the bay. As luck would have it there was a few in the mix that looked like they would do the job. so away I went and took the cock apart and started the job IMG_7470.MOV
    1 point
  8. Great video here. Anyone fancy tackling a service on one of these :-)
    1 point
  9. The post office just delivered this Astronaut ll . I got it to compliment my collection of my two other Bulova Astronauts . Bulova has seen to install three different types of movements for each . My first Astronaut is a vintage Accutron with the 214 Tuning fork movement . My second is the Automatic Buzz Aldrin signed limited edition version . And my latest is the Astronaut ll with the Very accurate Precisionist movement ,...what a smooth second hand . Here's a look at the second hand's sweep...... I chose the economical blue model with the blue textured leather strap because of its simplicity that seems to highlight the smooth second hand's sweep . Not a bad price at all.... And you have an option . Black dial and SS coffin link bracelet ,...at yet another deal.... From 2014... And the Watch...
    1 point
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