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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/06/17 in all areas

  1. Anyone watch Unforgotten on ITV this evening ? Body found in river ... wearing a watch...watch is sent to forensic lab to be examined... shows lab technician opening watch with a snap on case opener.... but it is a screw on watch back...
    2 points
  2. 1. Learn to make enamel dials and decorations. 2. Practice making perlage and Geneva stripes. 3. Learn calligraphy engraving. 4. Making faceplate addition to my lathe to be able to make watch cases. 5.... Waking up and getting my hands out of the potty
    2 points
  3. Don't think that's a hacking lever, looks more like the rather badly deformed terminal curve of the H/S between the stud and the regulator. Quite common damage when someone who doesn't know what they are doing plays with the regulator, moves it all the way to the fastest position so that the regulator goes beyond the dogleg to the terminal curve, then moves it back again. The dogleg gets jammed between the regulator pins ans as a result, it gets dragged round causing the H/S to buckle out between the regulator and the stud, pulling the rest of the H/S out of true and stopping the watch. Provided it's not been too badly b*ggered it's a relatively easy fix and the watch is back to running condition.
    2 points
  4. 'I know nothing' I have a problem with this statement... you do know something, that you know that you know nothing..! Am I making sense? Anyway that is sooo much better that someone who (thinks that he) knows everything. Welcome to this support group for for those who share a common madness! Anil
    2 points
  5. ops, I did it again..... I just won another Poljot 3133, a Sturmanskie at that... and also this one is not working... Guess I will have plenty of work to do! I am getting the fix on these... Pictures from the seller are pretty good and the condition is, apparently, pretty good, judging from them. I only hope the problem is easy to resolve...
    2 points
  6. I'm about to place an order with Cousins to buy some tools and oils / greases and was thinking about buying a Bergeon green lume kit as I've got a few watches that are cheap enough for me to practice reluming on, but whilst doing some reading up on reluming hands today I came across a number of references Super Luminova with a few of them listing it as superior to the Bergeon Lume. What does everyone here think? Should I just buy the Bergeon Lume kit, or should I source from else where the Super Luminova lume kit? Thanks Tony
    1 point
  7. Got this very old Elgin Pocket Watch working again by giving it a good cleaning. After assembling it I noticed that the balance was not true to the round so I adjusted it with the truing caliper wrench, without taking the balance off the balance cock. A lot of luck I think. Enjoy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  8. Well I got my mince pies today all the way from england! I want to thank @atimegoneby for his generous gift on this Three Kings Day. Boy are these pies are great!I don't know why they don't have these here in the U.S. Truly a LUXURY!! Thank you! J
    1 point
  9. Oh I do like a good Christmas mince pie! What a cracking gesture Phil.
    1 point
  10. I just use acrylic matt lacquer as a binder. Cheap as you like and has never been challenging to use.
    1 point
  11. One of the problems with a generalized statement like this is it's too generalized. Obviously the older the pocket watch the less likely it is to have super amplitudes. Earlier verge watches barely moved at all and didn't really keep time but that's what they did. Omega watch company has a technical documentation with timing specifications for all of their watches almost. For some of the really old that they don't have a listing for I've attached an image of what they expect. Now this isn't going exactly work for older pocket watches because the escapement designs have changed the newer wristwatches are just more efficient. But we get an idea of what they expected for older watches. Since were discussing amplitude notice they specify what it should be at the end of 24 hours. For the larger watch the expect 180°. This is why the example above 180 is considered okay I have a problem with because at the end of 24 hours is the watch even running? If you could keep 180° from the beginning to the end that would be okay providing the watch keeps time if it's a watch that can keep time. 200 would be better and anything above would be outstanding. The watch would actually keep better time if it Could maintain the same amplitude. But no matter what it still has to be running at the end of 24 hours usually watches with low amplitude drop a lot amplitude and finally come to a stop. So only with modern timing machine with the digital display do we get obsessed with numeric result of amplitude. In the early days if the watch company told us such as Elgin in the mid-50s has a specification they will refer to the number of turns. Data timing machine for the rate but they used turns for the amplitude because they did not have a digital machine. Then also attached timing specifications for basically better grade watches. I was trying to find what a 12 size Illinois non-railroad watch does and haven't got that yet instead a collector of Illinois gave me those PDFs. Then there is the one for the Hamilton but those are basically really nice railroad watches. But notice there is no reference to amplitude. Illinois 12s Certificate of Rating.pdf Illinois 16s Sang Spec Certificate of Rating.pdf Hamilton 992b 950 timing.PDF
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. To be honest even if the H/S is distorted beyond rescue (which I doubt is the case) it would be far from disastrous as it would appear that replacement could be relatively inexpensive if the link below is representative. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3133-BALANCE-WHEEL-spring-spare-part-for-chronograph-POLJOT-OKEAN-SHTURMANSKIE-/282305942559?hash=item41babed41f:g:EBEAAOSwNRdX2sEY
    1 point
  14. Wow, that's a nice one. Hopefully that hairspring will straighten up nicely and get the piece up an running again. I don't think it's a redial although I must admit I'm not an expert on Soviet pieces. The quality appears to be about equal to what I have seen in pictures of other Sturmanskies. It looks about right for it's age. Very nice pickup.
    1 point
  15. Stuart, I'm in the same sort of position as you. I was well sidetracked last year with other interests, so this year I hope to get back to finishing some of the horological projects that require finishing off. I'm frightened to start counting how many watches I have picked up to refurbish!
    1 point
  16. Nice find, I love those sturdy casbacks with the solid closing.
    1 point
  17. As a newbie how do you feel about painful lessons? In other words if you destroy your first watch are you going to regret it? As Geo commented you have a nice watch that's running more than likely it will not be running after you take it apart and try to put it back together. So this is a full plate American pocket watch things work just a little bit differently on these. They just tend to be very confusing for new people and not always fun to work on especially when you go to reassemble them. If the watch wasn't running it was broken I wouldn't care but I just hate to see running watches destroyed in the name of learning purposes.
    1 point
  18. That's a nice pocket watch that you have picked up. Can I suggest that you delete the above post and start another thread relating to this one and keep this thread for information relating to the Seiko. It helps others when searching for threads on specific watches.
    1 point
  19. According to some research I made and forum posts I found on watchuseek, there should be nothing bad about the dial nor the entire watch I bought. Actually, it appears to be one of the earliest models, from the first half of the 80s. On watchuseek.com I found the graph below. The Sturmanskie black and white logo, like the one I got, is no.7 I also attached another image of an identical watch, also found on the same thread over at watchuseek.com
    1 point
  20. Could turn the bracelet around. That should tell you whether it's the case or end pieces that is out.
    1 point
  21. Hi all And thanks for the replies. I am waiting for a new battery before I go any further with the Seiko. In the meantime I received my watch repair course a day early. A donor watch also was delivered, a side wind lever set Elgin. The watch is running and seems to be keeping good time. To be honest with you I really like it and hate to take it apart, it even has my first initial carved into it, but I guess some have to be sacrificed for the better good. Wish me luck. Here are a few shots of the victim.
    1 point
  22. Looks similar to the 7T32/34 movement. Your movement isn't the cleanest is have seen? So maybe there is dirt an rust inside? Sound like something is draining the battery? Probably a shortcut? You can lift the circuit board and see how it looks?
    1 point
  23. I hope you used plastic tweezers to handle the battery?
    1 point
  24. In my opinion most Quartz movements are not worth tinkering with. I would take measurements of the movement and see if there is an equivalent replacement. This table could be useful SEIKOmovementtable.pdf
    1 point
  25. @jdrichard I think I know where you missed it. You say 270degrees in one direction and 270 in the other (again, I am referring to the OP video), hence the 270deg amplitude. But the amplitude is only half of that as you calculate it from the rest position (impulse jewel in-between the pallet fork) to one direction or the other. Like the sine wave - it oscilates between A and -A. About he lift angle, it is not as you defined it, but: I attach the full document from witschi Witschi Timegraph - Training Course.pdf
    1 point
  26. I have a link below to the Seitz book. In the back of the book it lists the various charts of plate balance jewels etc. So I don't see a jewel of the size you have is just a little too big? http://ihc185.infopop.cc/helphand/pdf/seitz.pdf
    1 point
  27. Yes thats a good and better idea & will look at it after the Christmas period. Very busy with family now & not allowed into my workshop by her who must be obeyed.
    1 point
  28. Remember......No sales policy on this forum!
    1 point
  29. Here is a photo of what the wrench looks like and one of what a two piece stem looks like.
    1 point
  30. This should put your mind at rest. Click on this link. http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/sdriver/sdriver.html
    1 point
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