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Finally got everything i needed, now i need to find the time to play around with it...

Thank you Bob, here are some pictures of the diffusor. I think a picture tells more than a thousand words. Below are two pictures I took of my Breitling Transocean Unitime. It is evitend that I need to spent much more tome on preparation to get all the dust form the watch. The camera also reveals all the tiny little scratches. On the other hand it also gives a vivid impression on the really beautiful dial. First photo: F16, 1s Second photo F25, 3.2s That's why the second hand is blurred. Both pictures were taken with support of the LED ring light. I think I do have to do a lot more testing to find the propers light. And I have to do a lot more cleaning / dust removal. Cheers Alexander

Hello everyone, I have found those really interesting stats comparing the two biggest (at least in my opinion) watch brand in the industry. Those data were collection using https://Toolwatch.io Personally, I tend to find Rolex more reliable as my Submariner is way more accurate than my Speedmaster (though this one was bought earlier). What are your thoughts on those two brands ?

I dropped by the local pawn shop today to see if they had anything I might be interested in . I have bought a few watched from them in the past and traded Seiko divers with the guy once . I had traded a refurbished Seiko 6309-7290 diver for this scuzzy looking Seiko 6105-8110....pic from before and after I worked on it ..... Today The guy said he haven't brought in anything he thought I might be interested in . We were shooting the breeze and I showed him the Omega Speedmaster I was wearing when he says , "hang on , I have a watch in the back I have to tag and put on the shelf . " Shut Up...he brings out this watch I had been looking at for a while on ebay , and as much as I like them they always seemed to be too overpriced and overvalued for me to pull the trigger . Now I had one in my hands . I asked what they were asking for it and he shows me the tag for $396.00 , but then says , "I'll let you have it for $200.00 ." I'll take it says I. A Junghans Max Bill design automatic Model #027/4700..

You can find at lot of info in ETA movements here - https://secure.eta.ch/CSP/DefaultDesktop.aspx?tabindex=1&tabid=28 I've attached the tech sheet for the base movement. Cheers! CT_2892A2_FDE_300054_10_1.pdf.pdf

I personally thinks that it is not a question of reliability. You probably cannot compare a Submariner with the Speedy. The original Speedmaster (Moonwatch) has a hand wound chronograph movement that doesn't have as second stop and the Submariner comes with an automatic movement and no choronograph complication. #1 I'd rather compare the actual Rolex Submariner with the actual Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean. I have seen the Omega SPO and found it an excellent choice with the co-axial movement. The new Omega keeps the time as well as a new Rolex (less than 1s - 2s a day. Look at the watch and see which one fits you best. #2 If you look at your watch as an investment you may want to go for the Rolex which I personally consider more price stable. But keep in mind: luxury watches are usually not a very good investment unless you really look at what you buy, i.e. some limited edition which is not followed by another limited edition of the same watch, slightly different though and then yet another. I personally think it is easier to invest in a vintage Rolex (Daytona!) than a new one. But... if economy goes down the prices of luxury watches will go down as well. Which brings us to #1: go for the watch you really like most. My two cents. Cheers Alexander

Well, I guess there are words we can't really explain but are good when stablished. Watchmaker, regardless of origin, IMHO is one of those and good enough for what we do. For, why find a 3-mile word and end up with a full book worth of explanations about what we do, if one word, as stablished in our language -- would do the trick? Here is an example of another "meaningless" word: "rainmaker" is a person who brings in new business and wins new accounts almost by magic, since it is often not readily apparent how this new business activity is caused. So, in the previous example, nobody is actually making rain! Therefore, I go again with the QED which Miamians, here, write, as a joke: "LQQD" due to the misinterpretation -- in Math -- of the acronym immigration has given us -- foreign teachers; we natives see it as language enrichment...and funny -- When written it pretty much resembles someone looking at us: a pair of eyes? ! Smiles, anyone! Oh, OK, not funny! Also, it is doubtful that "moneymaker" refers to the person printing/designing/whatever the money but more like the person "bringing" money to his bank/company/wife account! So, there you have it. We are great at "topicmaking"! Cheers, Bob

For the sake of £10 - I would replace them personally especially if the pivots are corroded.

They don't all have jewels. They used to be cheap enough to just replace, but with the parts problem now, not sure what the price is.

Hello Mark, there is an error when trying to access your link

lol - no problem, i'm sure @UrgurTheGurgur won't mind

Thank You WileyDave . While the Seiko diver and the Max Bill are the best pawn shop finds for me to date , I recently took a trip to the mainland and picked up 3 other watches in pawn shops.... The Citizen Americas Cup watch I picked up in California . They were asking $120 with no battery and I offered the shop $75 and an exchange if I put a battery in and it didn't work . They agreed to that so I located a battery , Installed it , and all the functions worked . The watch is from 1992 and has the original watchband . In Denver at another pawn shop I picked up this clean working Lord Elgin for $10 , and this clean Seiko 7T62 chronograph for $56 with the same exchange condition I had with the Citizen in California .

Thank you. Sorry for the U-Turn...

omega all of the way - and this coming from a guy that likes seiko. it's a gorgeous omega. that blue dial.....

my words exactly. i have an old benrus auto that looks the same - tons of dial with almost no case. it's a great look.

That's how I usually describe my horological endeavours.

it's very difficult to enforce. It would mean inspecting a great percentage of packages destined to individuals. It is probably enough that these are not sold highway side like years ago and the number of scams is reduced.

Ja visst! Jag tycker om din idé. Dave PS "Yes, absolutely! I like your idea. (for the others) PPS - Do watches understand Swedish?

I don't believe so (but I'm a novice). My method is to remove the pallet bridge and pallet before replacing the balance, that way you can see exactly how far out of alignment the roller jewel is in relation to the banking pins- just don't forget to let down the mainspring if you use this method though! With this method you can see which side the jewel is favoring and turn the collet accordingly.

That is one way to get some iron in your diet

I should've made stew out of that rabbit. Dave

Update- this watch has been running for 42 hours now, non stop and with excellent accuracy, wow. Will note the final time once it stops Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have both the cheap Chinese copy of the Etic, and a vintage pass through tunnel type of de-magger and to be honest they both do the job, although I find the tunnel type is probably slightly more efficient (and looks a hell of a lot cooler on the bench although that's just my weird sense of aesthetics). I wouldn't spend the extra cash on the big name brands, a de-magger is a de-magger, essentially a coil of copper wire. You may get a better switch on the expensive one but if that bothers you then consider picking up a better quality switch from your local Maplins or Radio Shack and swapping it out on a cheap unit. You still save your money and get the best of both worlds. As Bobm12 says it may be wise to de-mag prior to re-assembly. If there is that much magnetic swarf sticking to the parts then I would want to make sure that they are clean before it goes back together, that way there is much less risk of the debris ending up back in the watch. I actually de-mag the movement prior to disassembly so that when the parts go through the cleaning machine any swarf is easily flushed away from the parts. I once made the mistake of putting the balance from an ESA 9154 (balance wheel electronic with permanent magnets attached to the wheel) through what looked like reasonably clean solutions in the cleaner, only to find it completely covered in iron filings that it had picked up from previous wash cycles when it came out. It took time, patience, and Rodico to sort out but it made me think about better cleaning practice. It is also good practice to de-mag the re-assembled movement after cleaning as some cleaning machines can induce magnetism. As for de-magging the parts separately that sounds like a right bore. I would replace the balance / balance cock assembly back onto the main plate to constrain it, and then put everything into some kind of container (with lid) and do it all at once like Cad101 has suggested. As for how it got that way, who knows. I used to work in the fabrication department at Lotus Cars and was always advised to take my watch off before going onto the shop floor, mainly because of the spot welders, but leave it sitting on top of a Hi-Fi speaker for a couple of days and you would probably do the trick.

The New York Jump Hour... Hmm. That would have to be the Sicura then...it looks just like an old school parking meter