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  1. 12 likes
    ETA 7750 Service Walkthrough The 7750 was first available in 1974, having been one of the first movements to be designed with the aid of a computer. It's hard to believe that the 7750 is still the industry standard movement for chronographs considering it's history. It was developed over 40 years ago by Valjoux, who was then a legendary movement maker that was part of the giant ASUAG conglomerate. But by the end of 1975 production was stopped due to the onslaught of the Quartz Era, and the 7750, along with many other mechanical calibers, was abandoned. Industry demand for this movement was so low that the stock produced in that 1 year manufacturing lasted until 1982! Such was the devastation of cheap Japanese produced quartz watches to Swiss manufactures. History may have forgotten the 7750 except for the local management at Zenith who ignored the orders by Valjoux to destroy the dies and equipment used to manufacture the 7750, instead hiding the equipment away from corporate eyes. You can find many more fascinating facts about this caliber online, and it's well worth the read. ................................................... This walkthrough will be very detailed, and I hope this will give people the courage to tackle this movement. I've serviced quite a few calibers, and this is one of the most beautiful, with a very logical layout. ETA7750 Tech.PDF If you have built your skills with basic movements, and become proficient in servicing them, I would highly recommend this movement to be your first chronograph to tackle. Lets begin. DEMAGNETIZE THE MOVEMENT BEFORE DISASSEMBLY. Remove the Day Indicator and store it in a safe place where it won't be damaged. Unscrew (0.8 Driver) the Jumper Maintaining Plate and remove it. Do the same for the Date Indicator Maintaining Plate Carefully remove the Jumpers Spring, holding it with a piece of pegwood so it doesn't ping away. Next remove the jumpers for the day and date. The jumpers differ from one another, so here is a reference photo so you can see the difference. Remove the Date Indicator and place it in a safe place where it won't be damaged. The last piece to remove on the Date Platform is the Double Corrector Now unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Date Platform and gentle pry it from the movement. Be careful when removing this plate, as there is a fine spring pressed into the plate that can be easily damaged. Here is a reference photo of the screws that hold the Date Platform. Remove the Hour Hammer Spring, once again using the pegwood to hold the spring while removing the tension. Here is a reference photo of the correct orientation of the spring. Remove the Hour Counter Lock. Remove the Hour Hammer Operating Lever. Next is the Hour Hammer, be careful when removing this item so as not to damage the Hour-Counting Wheel. Now remove the Hour-Counting Wheel. Remove the Date Indicator Driving Wheel Remove the Day Star Driving Wheel Then remove the Intermediate Calendar Driving Wheel Remove the Hour Wheel Then the Minute Wheel Remove the Cannon Pinion, which does not require a puller. The last component to be removed on this side of the Main Plate is the Driver Cannon Pinion. To lift the Driver Cannon Pinion I used what Mark used, a set of hand lifter from Horotec (MSA05.007); but you can also use a Presto Tool (30636-1) which will also work well. The dial side of the movement is now complete disassembled. Flip the movement over and unscrew (1.5 Driver) the Oscillating Weight. To remove the Hammer Spring lift it up gently over the automatic work and move it inwards. This will move the tail of the spring in a clockwise motion to the opening in the slots, which will free the spring. Slide out the Clutch Spring. Here is a reference photo of this spring, and it's orientation. Remove the screws (1.4 Driver) for the Automatic Device Bridge, and gently pry it loose. Here is a reference photo of these screws for the bridge. Once the Automatic Bridge has been removed, the two wheels for the automatic work are able to be removed. Below is a reference photo of how the sit inside the bridge. We now begin to disassemble the chronograph section of this movement. Begin with removing the Hammer, 2 Functions. Next remove the Clutch 60s, 2 Functions. Then remove the Minute-counting Wheel, 30min. Remove the Chronograph Wheel 60s, 30min. Gently lift out the Oscillating Pinion, 60s. Here is a reference photo of the orientation of this pinion. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Chronograph Bridge and gently pry it off the Train Wheel Bridge. Remove the Ratchet Driving Wheel. Remove the Chronograph Wheel Fiction. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Operating Lever, 2 Functions. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Lock, 2 Functions. Next remove the Minute-counter Driving Wheel, 30min. Slide out the Operating Lever Spring, 2 Functions. This spring can be fitting in both directions; but only 1 way is correct. Here is a reference photo of it's correct orientation. Remove the Switch. Here I digress from the order the SwissLab document illustrates the order of removal. They show to remove the Chronograph Cam before removing the Hammer Cam Jumper. This in my opinion is not the best way, as all the force from the jumper is pressing on the cam whilst your trying to remove it, and could lead to damage. Instead I move the Chronograph Cam until it reaches the notch as shown in the photo below. Then lift the Hammer Cam Jumper up to the top of the Chronograph Cam, which will release it's tension. Then, just as you removed the previous hammer, rotate the jumper to the opening in the slots, which will free the spring. Now you can unscrew (1.4 Driver) and remove the Chronograph Cam safely without tension on it. RELEASE THE MAINSPRING TENSION Once the tension has been released, unscrew (1.4 Driver) and remove the Balance Cock. Then unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Pallet Bridge and remove the bridge and Pallets. Unscrew (1.2 Driver) and remove the Ratchet Wheel. Then remove the Crown Wheel. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Train Wheel Bridge and gently pry it off the Main Plate. Note that one of the screws is under the Operating Lever. This needs to be moved out of the way to access this screw. The last level of this movement contains the train. Here is a reference photo of the wheel locations. Remove the Stop Lever. Remove the Great Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Remove the Third Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Remove the Second Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Note this has the long lower pivot. Remove the Escape Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Then remove the Barrel. This completes the removal of the train. Flip the movement over so we can complete the disassembly by removing the keyless work. Firstly, release the tension from the Setting Lever Jumper. Then unscrew (1.2 Driver) and remove the Setting Lever Jumper. These are unique screws with pointed ends, and below is a reference photo of them. This will also remove the Intermediate Setting Wheel. Next remove the Setting Wheel Then remove the Yoke. Remove the Setting Lever. Remove the Rocking Bar. Now pull out the Stem. Once the Stem is removed the Winding and Sliding Pinion should fall out of the movement onto your work mat. Disassembly of the 7750 is now complete If you've come this far, congratulation on completing the disassembly. Make sure you pegwood all the jewels and reinstall the Balance back onto the movement for cleaning. Assembly of the movement will be posted as soon as I complete the write-up.
  2. 9 likes
    Like a proud father, I feel the urge to show off my latest creation. We recently moved to a new house which finally gave me the space to have an office/workshop. I have been working on a tiny little homemade bench the past few years and have been dreaming of a proper bench. Sadly the ready made ones I wanted are way out of my league. My design goals were: Affordable versatile Free standing (i rent the house and cant drill bolts into the walls) Sturdy I got the original inspiration from Dan Spitz. http://danspitz.com/for-sale/ His concept is to make stunning workbench tops. You then supply the legs. However at £2,000 for the top, there was that budget thing again. I did however steal his idea (I don't actually know if he or someone else came up with it) of the routed groove along the edge. It has already proved to be a godsend in terms of catching small screws, and the odd tool. I decided to add a perspex screen on the back and down one side as I am notoriously rubbish at not flicking click springs etc across the room. So, the basics. Worktop: 40mm solid Beech kitchen work surface from Ebay 2000mm x 620mm - £85 Legs: Steel workbench legs from Machine Mart about £40 including shipping Bench support: 2 L shaped steel struts from an old Victorian bed. £5.00 from a salvage yard, cleaned up with an angle grinder then polished. Struts: 30mm square steel tubing from steel merchant £20.00 Danish oil for bare wood: £5.00 (four coats on either side) £20 for bolts and screws. So I made the whole thing for well under £200. The top is extremely heavy and I haven't totally managed to eradicate minimal side movement and ideally I would bolt it to the wall but as I said I can't. Still it isn't going anywhere and I love it. Of course you don't have to make it 2m long but I wanted somewhere for my lathe. I am building a perspex divider to protect the workbench from cuttings from the lathe. Anyway, I hope it might give some of you some ideas.
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    Well after a year of building my skills and discovering good tools vs bad, I finally have a workspace that is comfortable and large enough to lay out all of my tools properly. A lot of advice I gleaned from Mark and this board so thanks to all Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Here we go with part 2. Now it's easy to note, that I'm not a professional as the cleaning equipment is only... ehm... semi-professional. Special treatment for the balance and the pallet fork. The equipment for oiling and grease. Inserting the new mainspring. Reassembling the train bridge. Surprise: Much easier than on other watches, the parts fall into correct positions by themselves. Nice. Barrel bridge and ratchet system. The keyless works. Assembling and oiling the Pallet fork. The return of the balance. A drop of oil for the balance and escape wheel stones. Winding up and...it runs! Oops, some adjustment needed. Better. Reassembling the automatic device. Inserting the screws for movement and dial. Time for the cannon pinion and the hour wheel. Bringing back dial and hands (oh, I love those Maxi dials). Back in the case... ...and completed with the automatic device. Some grease for the gasket. Got it. It's called a wrist watch, so it's for the wrist not for the safe.
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    Well I've finished another project, and my first cylinder escapement movement. As can be seen from my previous thread " movement ID" you can see what i was up against, some very helpful members, Stuart and oldhippy huge thanks for the knowledge you guys shared. i still have no idea who made the movement or how old it is, all I know is that it's now ticking nicely and has kept perfect time with my phone (dial up) for the last 45mins. I shall over the weekend change its position to see how it keeps time. I tried it on the timegrapher but the machine didn't like it, don't know wether my Chinese one is programmed for cylinder escapements, but if it keeps time as it is now I'm not fussed. I tagged L&R ultra fine as members have been asking what it's like, well the last photo shows how well it cleans movement parts, also the picture of the dial is before I tried out some steradent denture tablets, Wow they really work, 3 mins on warm water and no cracks visible( they are still there but all the dirt has been removed making it nearly impossible to see them) I can highly recommend these as a way of cleaning enamel dials. Now some before and after photos......
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    I have some Moebius D5 I bought from Cousins last year. It's a 20ml bottle which I'm unlikely to finish in my lifetime, let alone between now and the end of April 2017 which is the shelf life expiry date of this batch. I haven't been able to find a clear answer to just what the expiry date means for the oil in the bottle. Does it mean the oil should no longer be used from that date? Does it mean that if you use it at the end of the shelf life period the oil will do its job for another two or three years in the watch? Either way, as a tinkerer I'd be content to use it for the next couple of years. That would still leave me with more D5 than a hobbyist would ever need, so I'm planning to keep 2ml and I'm offering the rest of the bottle to other tinkerers in either 1ml or 2ml doses. I have some new small 2ml glass bottles, an unopened syringe and a blunt mixing needle to decant the oil without contamination. You can have it for free, but I'll provide my paypal address in the package if you want to make a voluntary contribution to the P&P. If all of the oil is taken I'll post an update in this thread. PM me with a postal address and tell me whether you would like 1ml or 2ml.
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    Chapter 5... finished article Well its done..the 6119 movement is safe in its new home. Caseback gasket is a tad too big.. I had to poke it back into the groove as I was tightening the caseback. The quality of the crystal is good.. straight on the outside and curved on the inside with no inconsistencies (shown by wavy reflections). The bright green lume is very apparent in these pictures but less so in reality. Only reason I would change it is it doesn't match the hands/bezel dot. Not because of the green-ness. Final pic on my manly wrist! Issues... 1. Crown gasket does not fit. I bought 2 so I'll probably hunt around for another one with thicker section. 2. After-market bezel was a **BLEEP** to get on. I had to use a lot of force to get it on and now that its fitted, its a **BLEEP** to turn. The inner circumference needs to be machined a bit bigger to make it fit but now that its there I won't mess with it as it'll probably pull the crystal retaining bezel off if I try to remove it again! 3. Hands look ok but are flimsy. Summary.. It was a fun project bringing something totally trashed back to life and this was only made possible because of the good parts support for these Seiko divers. This will be a keeper as I don't think I'll find another one at a price I can afford. Hope you enjoyed the trip! Anil
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    Thought you guys may be interested in my latest project. full write up on my blog, but a few pics below Started from this.. to this.....
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    Had an interview today and wore this for luck. I had this overhauled over the Summer and it is a handsome piece indeed. Month, day, weekday are set..the moon phase...maybe I can count the clicks? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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    Lovely, cheap bracelet set from India. The box is beautifully finished with a magnetic lock. The tip stays in place and works just fine, it's not not bulky and heavy like some that I had bought before. Tips and spare handle also available. Cousins B38403.
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    Just purchased a vintage demagnitizer and it did not work. So into the guts I went. I disassembled the demagnitizer and found that one of the power leads that was previously soldered to a plate had detached. So to repair it, I drilled a hole in the plate and prepped the cable (cleaned) into the hole; then soldered it into place. It now works. Discount on next purchase:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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    Unfortunately I do not have an exploded diagram of this movement, with the correct terminology for the parts or the factory oiling procedures. The following is my own procedure for assembly, and I will leave the oiling to your own discretion. Personally I used Moebius Quartz Oil and Moebius 9501 for the Keyless Work. If anyone has a copy of the 1337 Technical Document please upload it to assist others. Assembly I started with the Keyless Work... Lubricate the Stem and install the Sliding Pinion and Stem. Also screw in the Setting Lever Screw. Install the Yoke and place the arm into the slot in the Sliding Pinion, and replace the Setting Lever. Install the Setting Wheel and fasten down. The last part of the Keyless Work to be installed is the Setting Lever Spring. Next install the train... Install the Minute Wheel, being sure to replace the small washer. Install the Intermediate Wheel and the Second Wheel Driving Pinion. Next install the Second Wheel. The lower jewel for Rotor is a blind pivot point, this needs to be lubricated BEFORE installing the Rotor. Install the Rotor. And lastly install the Third Wheel. Carefully install the Train Bridge, be careful to check the free running of the train before tightening fully. Next flip the movement over and proceed to install the Motion and Calendar Work. Firstly make sure the Magnetic Friction Wheels (Cannon Pinion) are very clean. Especially the flat plates between the wheels. Install the Magnetic Friction Wheels (Cannon Pinion) Then install the Calendar Setting Wheel. Next install the Motion Work Setting Wheel. Install the Intermediate Date Wheel. Lastly is the Date Indicator Driving Wheel and the Hour Wheel. Now all the wheels are installed you have to time the Calendar Setting Wheel, Intermediate Date Wheel, and Date Indicator Driving Wheel. This will take some study to setup correctly without the documentation; but take your time and you'll find it will become obvious how these wheels interact with each other. Once you have set the timing up, replace the Calendar Ring and Date Indicator Maintaining Plate. Then gently hold the plate down with a piece of Pegwood, and with the Crown in the second position, work the wheels and test that the pivots are located in their jewels and the timing of the Calendar Work is correct. Once you are completely satisfied that everything is working as intended, screw down the plate. Flip the movement over again and replace the Battery Insulator. Install the Coil. Install the Circuit and Circuit Insulator. Replace the Electronic Module Cover. Next replace the Coil Protector. Install the Battery Insulating Ring. Install the Battery Clamp. Please Note: The Battery for this movement is the 391/381. Lastly install the Dial and Hands. This completes the assembly of the Omega 1337 Movement. I hope this walkthrough gives you the confidence, steps and reference photos to tackle this movement yourself.
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    This particular one is not possible to pin unfortunately. The best remedy is to clean out the old adhesive and apply new. I would use a slower drying epoxy (very very small amount applied using a clock oiler for example). Apply when the glue is tacky enough to hold the spring in place so you can test if it is correctly positioned. Once you are convinced of its correct position along the length of the end of the spring then leave it to set. Do this with the stud re-attached to the index but the hairspring not attached to the balance staff so that you can check the position of the hairspring collet being directly over the pivot hole. This will make it easier for you to observe that the spring is straight and true on the stud.
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    So it started with the purchase of this Hamilton 912. It had a loose balance and upon examination one of the pivots was broken. So off I went to eBay to order a 3050 balance staff. Three came in the mail. I started by removing the hairspring from the balance and then removed the roller plate with Impulse Jewel and safe roller. I then got out my roller remover and punched out the roller and safety roller. Then I took the staff and balance and fit the balance and staff in my Staking set; flat arms on the balance flat against the Staking tools plate. I then got out my NEW staff remover. I then made a YouTube on how to use the tool. After I punched out the old stake I staked in a new one Did a good job. The next step was to put the double rollers back. That is when I noticed that the roller jewel was loose. I got out my combination tools and shellacked the jewel and tested that it was now in good. I then staked in the rollers and moved on the put the hairspring back on. I did so and noticed that the collet was cracked. I had another old Hamilton movement and started farting around with the two hairsprings. Need to use the older one so I cleaned in and installed in and put the balance back in. Now the fun started. When I tightened down the balance cock the bottom pivot of the balance staff was too big ( my mistake) and it cracked the lower jewel. So I went into my collection of jewels and found and Illinois lower balance jewel that was the right hole size and also fit the opening. I installed it oiled in and screwed on the cap jewel. Reinstalled the balance and had to take it off again and take off the hairspring and straighten it a bit as it was touching the balance arm. So once I had in all in place I noticed that the balance was not down far enough to allow the upper pivot to extend into the jewel hole. So I took a slice of watch paper and wedged it into the back of the balance. Finally that did it and with a little work in the Banking Pins I was able to get a beat. About 200degree turn is all I could get, but I had no energy left to try and get more. A new crystal is now on order and the watch works fine. What a day.Paper jammed in.Happy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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    Here is my YouTube video Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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    Final stage should have been with progressively finer sandpaper but I skipped that and went to the final stage..polishing with Autosol metal polish. And this is the result. The gouge at the one o'clock area is no longer visible (in this pic you can see the badly worn case lug caused by the metal band). The holes on the right side of the case have been reduced to the extent that they're not visible to the naked eye. And the nick at nine o'clock is gone ...a few more pics of the case. Crystal has been polished with autosol as well. The case back cleaned up. Well that's the end if this polishing tale. No power tools were used, if you wish to use them be warned that its all too easy to remove too much material. In this case, by hand-polishing I managed to minimise the damage to the case lines.. not perfect but it could be a lot worse! As a bonus, the watch decided to start working again ! I like to think that this was the watch's way to show that it was happy to be all cleaned up but in reality it was probably just the old oils getting warm and allowing the movement to tick. Hope you enjoyed this write-up. Anilv
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    it's the flight rated configuration because I'm a huge fan of spaceflight.
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    Seiko watches have been a personal favorite of mine because of the quality of the materials used and also the quality of the design. I recently purchased a hand-wind Seiko Cronos which was advertised as non-running and I thought I'd share my experience with it. As received, the watch was in decent cosmetic condition but not running. Caseback is in decent shape and the case itself seems to be pretty much unworn. Its Gold-plated but no indication of the thickness. Serial is the 7 digit type used in the 60s so this would be April '61? I popped the front bezel off as the movement comes out the front, you can see some damage to the dial where the hands have grazed the dial. Another pic of the damaged area. Its a shame as the dial is in good condition otherwise. The Seiko calibre 54. These came in 54A, 54B and 54C.. not to sure which one this is as there's not much info about these movements. Decent looking and 23 jewels for a handwind is pretty awesome. A full bridge for the balance-wheel no less...just like Rolex! One of the case screws is missing. The dial side of the movement with the dial removed... not as pretty as the other side, cap jewels present but in a simpler design. With the ratchet-wheel, balance-wheel and pallet-fork removed.. here we see the first sign of a problem. The barrel arbor hole has been 'massaged' to reduce barrel endshake. The underside of the barrel-bridge.. negligible end-shake on the barrel so it will go back in as it is. Some wheels...pretty similar to a lot of other Seiko movements. Dial-side dismantled.. It is at this point I realised that Seiko was not above playing the 'jewel' game. In the picture below, you can see that the jewel for the pallet fork has an oil 'sink' . In these jewels the endshake is controlled by the inner flat surface, rather than cap jewel which makes the cap jewel superflous. Compare this to the escape wheel jewel where the jewel is domed on the outside and the oil sits in the gap between the curved jewel and the cap jewel. Here the cap jewel serves to ensure minimal friction as the point of the pivot rides on the cap-jewel whereas in normal uncapped settings the pivot's 'shoulder' hits the flat inner surface of the jewel. I'm not sure if Seiko did this to raise the jewel count, pallet-fork pivots are not usually oiled so it could be that having cap jewels here MAY reduce friction in this case as endshake is more controlled. Below we see the other side of these jewels, the escape wheel jewel is the one with a flat side. Mainspring looks good. Ditto the barrel The cap jewels have been cleaned, The double jewelled one goes back in one position only as the cutouts match the holes in the dial where you check the pallet/escape-wheel engagement. Diafix settings with the spring in the open position and cap-jewels about to be removed... Dirty jewels.. And here we see the bottom of the train bridge. again we see another jewel which does not require a 'cap'. The fourth-wheel (seconds) jewel is flat on this side and has the oil-sink on the other. This wheel needs to be oiled and hence the cap-jewel is just a 'dustcap'. view of the oil-sink and 'proper' capped jewels for the escape and third wheel. All cleaned up and oiled. Fitting the diafix jewels went smoothly enough.. sometimes they cause problems but not today! Train bridge installed and checked for smooth runnig.. all good but......... The diafix springs were all over the place so I adjusted how they were aligned.. I think it looks a bit better now! (the upper left spring looks like it has one leg out of the groove but its actually OK). Everything running smoothly. Overall it was a nice movement to work on but the most difficult part about working on these watches is getting the clearance of the hands correct. I had to remove the bezel twice before it ran without hands snagging on each other and I believe that it wouldn't take much to get them out of alignment. This movement was used as the basis for some early Grand Seiko watches and while I haven't timed it, it has been running well for the last few days. I really think that the 2 cap jewels I mentioned above are unnecessary and it would have been better to jewel the barrel arbor but even with 21 functional jewels it still is a nice running watch! Hope you enjoyed reading about this as much as I enjoyed working on it! Anilv Ps.. while outwardly clean, the initial rinse in lighter fluid showed how much of dirt was in the movement. Here the balance and pallet fork was removed, the mainspring given a few turns and it was left to unwind in the fluid. I find that this helps clean the pivots but you have to prevent the wheels from turning (I used a sliver of pegwood) until the movement is submerged in the lighter fluid otherwise the wheels spin too fast and could wear the pivots unnecessarily.
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    I’m working on mechanical wrist-watches for two years now and in this time I came very often to one problem concerning watches with a regulator arm. I wanted a watch to run a little bit slower or faster (let’s say 3 seconds), so I had to push the regulator arm a very little distance. On many of my watches these arms have quite a big breakaway torque, so when I increased force and the arm started moving, it jumped a bigger distance than I wanted it to do (of course this led to a timing “correction” of 20 seconds, not the 3 seconds I wanted). Not my idea of regulating, this is just “try and try again, good luck”. Searching some forums on the internet for a tool to do this better I didn’t find a solution for me. So I had a close look at the regulator arms of my watches, did some measurements and finally built this little tool. The tool head grips over the regulator arm while the watch is on the timegrapher and due to the tools long lever arm (which is about 4 inches) I can manipulate the regulator position very precise. Here are some pics of my work on a Rolex 5513 with 1520 movement. The watch ran constantly +4 seconds per day and I wanted to slow it down to +1 second. No problem with the Delgetti-key.
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    If you use method one you don't need to leave the hairspring dangling. I use a balance stand and a bit of rodico and it could sit on its standard for years if necessary. Have attached some pictures for demo. Just remember when taking the balance assembly of the stand to hold the wheel gently incase lower pivot sticks in the rodico. Then release from the rodico. I think people prefer method 2 to avoid having to flip the wheel over when working on the balance. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
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    Finally a slow-motion video of the balance working I took during the work.
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    My thought is, remove money from the equation first. Judge things for what they are, their objective physical characteristics. And then you will be able to judge what is overpriced and what is cheap, with all the large lot in between. Works for tools, for watches, and most other material objects.
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    Hello, I have this Omega watch with a stained dial. It's not the kind of "patina" I find particularly appealing so I wanted to see if I could clean it up with the usual soapy water but nothing happened... Then, by chance, I bought the exact same Omega dial for a couple of dollars at a flea market, with the same kind of discoloration (I also scored another omega (354 bumper) in the process, I'll clean it up and give it to my dad). So it was time to experiment !!!! Before picture : All 3 methods were applied with a Q-tip (cotton swab), gently rubbing the cleaning solution on the dial, and rinsed VERY WELL using distilled water. First up : more soapy water, with different soap concentrations... no change. Second : lemon juice diluted in water, increasing the lemon juice concentration slowly... no change Last : Windex (ammonia based window cleaner) MIRACLE !!!! It took about 30 minutes of work to get this result, doing one little portions of the dial at a time. I chickened out around the writing on the dial, so it doesn't look as good as other places. I didn't want to push my luck. After picture : Share any method you've used and before/after pictures.
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    Omega with water based top coat - soaked in destilled water with a few drops Fairy - brushed lightly every couple of minutes. Before After
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    I can now give you a heads up on how these tubes are fitted & replaced. It was the most difficult job I have done in a long,long time. Despite a long time on the internet doing research I basically found nothing of any help. I received no help or advice from this forum or other forums apart from one bit of advice on another forum that suggested it was friction fit which was incorrect. So after a lot of experimenting and measuring with some scrap Citizen watches I found that the tubes are friction fitted to their standard watches BUT their Diver style watches to improve water resistance are a screw fit. I removed the old tube by putting a slit into the top of the old tube with a slitting file and twisting it out. Unfortunately with this watch a previous repairer had stripped the original case thread and had glued it in another tube and then packed it with a clear silicone. The Citizen diver style threads put in these cases only have a depth of 2mm. After a lot of thought & weighing up all the options I decided to try and tap the remainder of the case with a 3mm thread & screw in a longer crown tube that was 4mm long. The tap used had to have a 0.35 pitch not the usual 0.50 pitch for the tap to work and the hole required for the tap is 2.6mm. This proved to be another problem as the drills I purchased marked as 2.6m were actually only 2.52mm so I had to broach out some extra. HOWEVER despite this working fine on a scrap piece of metal I just could not get the thread to take in the watch case. I don,t know if it is because the case is a cast metal. I really don’t know why. So plan B was to but a friction fit tube in but the problem I now faced was I had made the original hole bigger trying to tap the hole. So I fitted a friction fit tube & used Loctite 243 a micro seal at the top of the new tube. I then held it in place overnight to dry. Unbelievably on test the case is actually watertight up to 5 bar. All I can say is I just got lucky and the loctite 243 really does do a lock & seal. I am not 100% not happy with the result because I finished doing the same really as a previous repairer had done which is a bodge job which is not my style. If I encounter this problem again I will just friction fit a tube and use the magic Loctite 243. If the original thread is OK then it would be a very simple job to just shorten a screw in tube and just fit. See some pics taken during repair TUBE REMOVED LIP ON THE CITIZEN REDUCES TUBE THREAD TO 2MM FRICTION FIT TUBE HELD IN PLACE FOR 24 HRS. WATERPROOF TESTED UP TO 5 BAR (50 METERS)
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    my new toy what do you think .....
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    Hi guys, The Seiko 6105-8110 was probably the one model which brought Seiko credibility as a manufacture of 'serious' tool watches. While. Not the first (there was the Silver Wave and 62MAS before this) it was the first one to be sold in high numbers. The fact a lot of GIs bought them at the PX during the Vietnam war and took them back to the US probably helped. Oh..and a certain movie about the same war featuring this watch probably helped make this an iconic model. While I've had a few pass thru my hands I've never actually owned one. Back in the day they were just another Seiko diver watch and then suddenly everyone wanted one. I missed the boat there! A few weeks back I managed to get hold of a Seiko 6105-8110 which was in a sorry state. So sorry that I got it for peanuts....basically water damage. A missing bezel as well. From Feb 1974 Doesn't lock, the locking pin is probably damaged. It was a struggle getting the back off, a bit of heat round the edge of the case back helped. Dial is pretty bad..the hands did not survive the removal. And the final bit..this is probably beyond any hop of repairing...and I've rescued some serious crap in my time! .....stay tuned! Anil
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    Personally I like to lapp all surfaces that are flat and keep the polishing and/or buffing part to a minimum. On some watch cases this is not possible of course, but the square Seiko that WileyDave shows is a nightmare to get in shape using a mop - but quite easy using a lapping rig. Example of a beat up Seiko that I user as a guinea pig on an early lapping setup. Lapped Far from perfect and with some material missing on some of the edges - this case would need a bit of welding to get back to "as good as new"-state. But surfaces are resonably flat and the edges are there.
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    Well after some consideration I finally shelled out for a beaten up old Bell-matic. It is probably the most complicated watch I have, up to now, that I willl have worked on. It is not too bad I suppose but after bidding on about five of these watches i was surprised by the price they command even in poor condition. This is the pic from the bay Now that I have it I find the dial is not in bad condition at all, I accepted that the plexiglass was bust and it would need a new one (from Cousins) and the case has some need for buffing. However, despite being described as being in working condition there are quite a few faults. I found the crown was decidedly non standard and when wound backwards simply wound off and it transpires that it is in need of replacement. I thought I was in luck when I found one for £2.88 in Cousins but my hopes were dashed when the crown supplied proved to be the wrong tap size being 10 or 11 and not Tap 9 (10/100 mm) which is needed to fit the 354805 stem. Here is a pic of the crown that came with the watch - it is patently wrong. Here is a pic of the crown from Cousins alongside the other crown and it is obviously a better match to the tube and the gasket comes with it. Unfortunately the tap size was wrong but to give Cousins their due they contacted Seiko who confirmed I needed a 55M22NS1 crown (now obsolete) and they had supplied the wrong part and Cousins gave an immediate refund but did not ask for return of the Crown which I consider to be good service though I have now got my fingers crossed for the Plexiglass and gaskets I bought. Well thats my latest project. I am minded to drill out and re-tap the crown as in every other aspect it seems a perfectly acceptable crown. I may have to get some different taps though as the ones I have are a bit problematic on their lead in for the depth of metal to the dead end I will be tapping. I am in no doubt that there will be a lot of work here, the pointers look grubby and I suspect the spring for the alarm is faulted, though I heard the alarm work for a brief couple of seconds - it will need a full service but there are a few teardowns on the net - Christian has done one I could follow and I have found some more - luckily it seems to be a popular watch. Spares are available some easier to get than others but i will have to open it up and find out as I go along. That leather strap is revolting but it is the least of my jobs, date does change with pusher and the alarm ring does move and finally it does tick. Buffing the case should make a difference. Here are a final two pics - that is the best pic of the face I could manage through the bust plexi. I joined a Bell-Matic forum in another place (SCWF) and have accessed a shedload of info and spec sheets (grateful thanks to JohnWN) that will be handy. Just as an after thought heres a pic of some of my current favourites. The little Gradus needs some work and has seen some knocks but I will get round to it one day. I have a couple of cases with other stuff in ranging from the sublime to the ridiculous that I may get round to posting "some day". Bye for now - Cheers, Vic
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    Oh yeah! Finally it opened. Thanks Ray. Thanks Frenchie. It worked after 2 tries. First try, I heated the watch in the oven, then transferred to the vise block , mount the case opener carefully, apply pressure with the aid of a mill press, then apply some torque to open, then hit it with the coolant. Didn't work. The problem, getting it setup took time. Maybe I cooked it too much to. The second time, it set it up ready to open position ( vice block, case opener aligned pressing on the case. Then I heated the whole setup with a heat gun, then hit the back with the coolant and it finally gave. I still had to open it half way using the setup since after cracking the case I still could not open it by hand. Again, thanks for the response . Pics enclosed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Chapter 3... Shopping (where would we be without ebay!) The main reason that this watch was recoverable is that the supply of parts (and consequent competitive pricing) justifies it. The fact that Seiko tends not to change things around for the sake of change makes it easier for the aftermarket as well. After getting my hand on the watch, I basically knew that I would only be keeping the following. 1. Mid-case. 2. Case-back. 3. Crystal Bezel .4.movement ring. 5. crown. The following would need to be sourced. a. Dial b. Hand (set) c. Crystal d. bezel e. bezel insert f. crown seal g. caseback o-ring h. bezel o-ring i. Crystal o-ring/seal j. stem k. movement.. Apart from the movement and stem (which came from my own supply), I started shopping... while there are many suppliers, it basically came down to price (this will be a mongrel after all) and convenience (I would try to get as much from one guy to make it easier to track). All the stuff I ordered has arrived, below are some pics and also the vendor info. The following items were from mountapo_merchant -Case-back gasket... said to fit 6309,6105, 7s26,7002 divers. Pack of 10. Bezel gasket - This is what gives friction between the rotating bezel and the case. Crystal seal - this is the L-shaped oil seal which holds the crsytal in placed. Was a bit warped, probably due to being stored poorly. 6309 bezel.. I bought this as I couldn't find a proper coin-edged bezel on ebay. This eventually gave up its insert when I finally found a correct bezel. Dial... Yes the green is unacceptably 'green'...but I tell you it looked better in the pictures!. Reluming is not my favourite job but I might just have to do it in this case.. Hands... these looked correct.. Other stuff from ebay Crystal from ebay seller 'seikoforever'. Looks ok, I pulled it out and theres no hint of 'ripple'. This can be a problem with cheaper stuff. Hope it fits as I've had problems with other watches where the diameter is ok for the seal but it fouls the retaining bezel. Crown seal from ebay 'vintageseiko4ever' Finally I managed to source a replica bezel from https://crystaltimes.net/. It came with the metal shim the bezel sits on. I did not buy a bezel insert as I had already bought a 6309 type and figured on pulling the insert from that one. This cost GBP29.99 (incl of registered post). A bit pricey but this is something unique to the 6105. Total cost? Mountapo_merchant (misc stuff) = USD59 + 4.50 shipping seikoforever (crystal) = USD16.99 + free shipping vintageseiko4ever (crownseal) = USD7.98 + 4.00 shipping Crystaltimes (bezel) = GBP29.99 + free shipping (approx USD37.20) Total USD129.67. While it's expensive, how many other watches (apart from Seiko divers) can you refurbish with such readily available parts? Try sourcing a 'new' aftermarket bezel for any other Diver watch. Anyway.. i have all I need to put this thing together.. watch this space! Anil
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    Interlude...Movement options. The original 6105 movement is toast. While it is closely related to the 6106 movement, it is different in one major aspect, The 6106 (and others in the 61xx family) have a quickset by pushing in the crown. This would not work well in a diver so Seiko re-desgned the quick-set so that it works by pulling the crown out to the first click. This is only found on the 6105 movement. First option is to source for a donor 6105 movement..a quick check on our favourite site finds one up for sale... at USD200..gulp.. though there is a 'best offer' option I don't think the seller will accept my USD20!!. Second option is the 6106. As mentioned earlier, this will fit but they're not too common. While I have a few, they are in serviceable watches and not 'donors'. I am loathe to sacrifice a running watch for what will still end up as a 'mongrel' watch so this will not be considered for now. Third option is another movement which has close relations to the 6105, in fact it is part of the 61xx series of movement and is my personal favourite among Seiko movements... the 6119. I have accumulated quite a few of these movements (thank you watchcollector/ebay!) so no problem there. Fourth and final option will be the 6309. Since it was the eventual successor to the 6105 and carried the torch well for a long time, this would be an acceptable and some would say 'fitting' solution. I finally decided to go with the third option and dug out a suitable candidate.. a few hours work and I have a strong running movement waiting to be cased up, I left out the day-wheel and date-corrector as the quick-set will not be functioning. While it is possible to leave a slight gap between the crown and case in order for the quickset to work, I prefer to have the crown sitting close to the case. The quickset is not critical for me as I don't see myself bothering with the date. Worst case scenario, the date can be set by setting the hands back and forth from 6pm to past midnight. I may try to 'rescue' the auto-winding bridge from the 6105 movement but as the rotor-bearing is totally kaput on that I need to transfer another bearing in. It looks to be pressed in so should be do-able. I did consider the 6309 option as well. In fact I have a 6306 in a Seiko 5 Sports Diver which would fit the bill and add a bit of a 'hot-rod' element but as the 6119 missed out on being a 'diver' I figured I'd give it its day in the sun! Anil
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    Looking good eh? But lets take a closer look! Notice the part close to the middle was not grinded. I was not grinding long/deep enough. The grinder did not touch this part of the wheel. I missed this before started grinding the external circle. I could start the grinding again but it will do in this watch, since the wheel is mounted with a plate hiding that part.
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    This should put your mind at rest. Click on this link. http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/sdriver/sdriver.html
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    I quite often attend the local auction houses near where I live, and at the sale this week was quite a few lots from a retired watchmakers workshop, so I went along to the auction the day before to see what was on offer, There where plenty of watches for sale in mixed bags, all of uncollected watch repairs, One lot caught my eye it was a bag which contained a 1973 Hamilton G10 military watch, there was nothing else of note in the bag of around 20 watches so I noted the Lot number and looked at everything else on offer. One lot describe as a Omega watch was a bit of a dog it was a record military watch which had a Omega Geneve dial replacing the original Record, It is a shame because with the original dial and hands it would have been quite a nice watch to have but as it stood it was neither a Omega or a original Record so not worth a great deal IMHO, I noted the lot number out of interest as I would be attending the sale. Other lots included a Kendrick and Davis staking set which I wanted, A Favorite jeweling set which I also wanted , A few mixed Boxes of tools and spare parts some of which I wanted and a couple of lathes. The lathes on offer where a Coronet Diamond lathe from the 1940's and a IME lathe with around a dozen collets but no draw bar on inspection I could not get the pulleys to turn and with no obvious lock, I think it must have been seized. The coronet was in good condition and turned freely and had no play in the bearings and came with a motor I noted the lot numbers and resolved to return the next day for the auction. The auction started at 12:00 o'clock Having attended the auction quite a few times the first lot I wanted was lot 196 at roughly 150 lots a hour I thought I would get there about 1 o'clock and have a short wait for the first lot I wanted. Sadly the auctioneer was working faster than usual and I got there at lot 209. I did get there in time to see the franken Omega/record watch come up it went to a telephone bidder for what i thought was a staggering price of £245.00 before commission. So I waited a hour for my next lots to come up, I got the staking set for £40.00 and the Jeweling set for £40.00 which I was very happy with. The Lathes came up next, I have wanted a lathe for quite sometime but only want one to practice and experiment with at the moment so I thought if I can get the coronet cheap I will give it a go. The bidding started at £10.00 so I thought not much interest I will bid, I got the lathe for £40.00 too, the IME went for £90.00. The next lot I wanted was a box of tool's, on the viewing day I had looked through it contained quite a few small boxed tools, such as a pinion puller roller remover and Bergeon crystal lifter a couple of vices taps and dies, and various other useful tools, so I got that for £60.00. The thing with auctions and boxed lots is you have to be careful because when I collected the box at the end of the auction half of what I had seen in the box the day before was missing, I suspect because there where a number of open boxes someone had taken all the useful tools and placed them into a different box at the viewing to make up one very good box to bid on, ideally with boxed lots you need to view just before the auction starts.The only saving feature of the box I now had is that it contained some Georgian Guinea weights and I should be able to recoup the money for the box just from those. The Coronet lathe I now own came with one solitary collet and a motor, I have bought this just to experiment with and don't intend to throw money at it, I would just like to get used to using a lathe, so I will get the electrician at work to rewire and PAT test the motor although it does work the wire has been wrapped with insulation tape. I do though have a couple of questions that someone I'm sure could answer, What oil should I use for the bearings on the head stock ?. I also intend to buy a few individual collets to get me started, the one that came with the lathe is 35.8 mm long 7.94 mm wide and is stamped on the top with two back to back c's the collet is also stamped 2807, which type of 8 mm collet is this and which ones do I need to look out for to fit this lathe. Wayne
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    I'm seeing more and more of these, 6R15s almost new which exhibit a poor pattern or performance. This one, manuf. Apr. '14 was spinning 210 deg. face up, dropping to about 170 in other positions. What I do in these cases is let them wind down (to avoid removing the auto bridge), remove balance jewels, balance and pallet fork. Leave these parts 5 minutes in rectified gasoline (got in 1L bottle from an otherwise useless local supplier), applied 9010 to the stones, and put it back together. Takes less than 30 minutes. Picture taken before regulation.
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    Dont give up, you dont need that... if you can do that two wires then you can do the rest... find a 230V bulb and a 60 degree klixon-thermostat. there is a lot of them out there... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10mm-UNIVERSAL-INDICATOR-RED-LIGHT-NEON-ELECTRIC-BULB-PUSH-INN-SNAP-FIT-230V-/322441068293?hash=item4b12fc3f05:g:aVcAAOSwuxFYuc7o http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KSD301-NC-60-degree-10A-Thermostat-Temperature-Switch-Bimetal-Disc-KLIXON-/141462899540?hash=item20efd88b54:g:hx0AAOSwhQhY3prT follow this simple but useful diagram and it will work!!! You must fasten the klixon to the heating chamber you might need a 40 degree depending on where you can place it...
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    http://stsupplyonline.com/catalog/citizen-capacitors-c-31_409_412.html Here you have the numbers . Anything that could match? Maybe you could even buy them from STS
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    The two part Araldite that comes in a twin tube should be OK. It sets quickly but stays tacky for a long while before hardening.
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    This little arm is that there? And this has to be in the right position . Lifting it out until it lays outside the star on the dayring.
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    So for those that want to see what's inside the TimeTrax Watch pickup images attached. The sensor itself the disc is 15 mm in diameter the piezo is 10 mm. You'll notice it's covered with hot glue I suspect that's to minimize picking up audio it would have a dampening effect. It's mounted to a spring-loaded pin and I have images of it in and out so it doesn't have to go in very far it just has to pick up the vibrations. Then the one I have is considerably older which is why it has a metal movement holder versus the newer out of plastic. I was thinking now that we have 3-D printers readily available we could probably design something ourselves. I imagine a lot of the cost was having the original plastic injection molded.
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    Hi Johnnie , Hopefully you didn't inadvertently knock the yoke off of the groove on the clutch wheel . If the little button is stuck down , that means that the setting lever is not seated properly and not allowing the small nub on the setting lever to engage the grove on the setm. This happens sometimes when replacing the stem . First thing is to use the stem and crown or a small screwdriver in the stem hole to gently wiggle the parts into alignment . Doing this will work more often then not . If this doesn't do the trick you have to remove the dial to access the setting / winding mechinism to align the parts ,...usually the yoke back into the clutch groove as I previously mentioned . Your watch is a bit more complacated because of the gear that turns the inner rotating bezel . Attached is the PDF tech sheet for the Seiko 6106 , which is the base movement for the 6119 . You can see the parts I'm talking about ....Good Luck.... 6106A.pdf
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    I would have thought that watchmakers would have a code like "this is a difficult customer' or 'cash only' to warn future watchmakers! But these issues would only turn up when the watch has been cased up.. Anilv
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    Chapter 4....crown seal. Well getting the crown seal was easier than getting the old one out...so if you are considering replacing the seal without mangling the crown then it's doable. But.... While the seal I bought from Thailand grips the crown tube well enough (I tested it beforehand), it does not seem to grip the inner part of the crown well. This does not bode well for water-resistance. With the seal installed, when the crown is fitted to the case, there is practically no friction when I turn the crown. Only when I move the crown lengthwise along the tube cam can the resistance of the seal against the crown tube be felt. A thicker section o-ring is required here. In a nutshell, avoid avoid Seiko diver crown seals from ebay seller vintageseiko5ever. They won't work on the 6105 diver it advertised to fit the 6309 and 7002, I can't comment on that. I also sorted the stem, the 6119 stem fitted to the movement I planned to install was too short (not surprising!) so I used a stem extender. Problem was the diameter of the female part if the extender was too thick and required to be turned down.. out came thebastard file. All done now. No pictures because crowns are not really photogenic. Anil
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    This is what you need. If you get anything that is to powerful it can distort the hairspring which is the main part that needs demagnetizing. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/161822826949?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=122&chn=ps&googleloc=9045125&poi=&campaignid=207297426&device=c&adgroupid=13585920426&rlsatarget=aud-133395220866%3Apla-131843272146&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=122&ff19=0
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    The testing is done, the verdict is in. I have run the Zeiss - Eye Mag Pro F 5x @ 235mm (9.25inches) through their paces on many watches, including several Analog Quartz movements with very small gear trains. So what do I think? .... These are the BEST optics for working on watches bar none! I will never, and I mean NEVER, go back to using a standard monocular eye loupes again; except on inspections that require the extreme magnification of a 20x to 30x loupe ... which is rare. The clarity is so good that I don't even have to swap to a higher power loupe to locate the tiniest of pivots, even the tiny rotors in Quartz analog movements ... this set does it all. I have shown them to several professional watchmakers, who have been in the trade for decades (some as much as 50yrs), and they are astounded by the Eye Mag Pro's clarity and comfort, and are looking into getting themselves a pair. Believe me when I say there is nothing like working with stereo vision that moves with your head movements, and gives complete depth perception at all times. If you can afford to buy them, DO IT! And if you can't afford to buy them .... SAVE! :)