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  1. 8 likes
    Like a proud father, I feel the urge to show off my latest creation. We recently moved to a new house which finally gave me the space to have an office/workshop. I have been working on a tiny little homemade bench the past few years and have been dreaming of a proper bench. Sadly the ready made ones I wanted are way out of my league. My design goals were: Affordable versatile Free standing (i rent the house and cant drill bolts into the walls) Sturdy I got the original inspiration from Dan Spitz. His concept is to make stunning workbench tops. You then supply the legs. However at £2,000 for the top, there was that budget thing again. I did however steal his idea (I don't actually know if he or someone else came up with it) of the routed groove along the edge. It has already proved to be a godsend in terms of catching small screws, and the odd tool. I decided to add a perspex screen on the back and down one side as I am notoriously rubbish at not flicking click springs etc across the room. So, the basics. Worktop: 40mm solid Beech kitchen work surface from Ebay 2000mm x 620mm - £85 Legs: Steel workbench legs from Machine Mart about £40 including shipping Bench support: 2 L shaped steel struts from an old Victorian bed. £5.00 from a salvage yard, cleaned up with an angle grinder then polished. Struts: 30mm square steel tubing from steel merchant £20.00 Danish oil for bare wood: £5.00 (four coats on either side) £20 for bolts and screws. So I made the whole thing for well under £200. The top is extremely heavy and I haven't totally managed to eradicate minimal side movement and ideally I would bolt it to the wall but as I said I can't. Still it isn't going anywhere and I love it. Of course you don't have to make it 2m long but I wanted somewhere for my lathe. I am building a perspex divider to protect the workbench from cuttings from the lathe. Anyway, I hope it might give some of you some ideas.
  2. 7 likes
    Welcome to my custom made watchmaker and repair video camera. Paul Stuart’s Professional Watchmaker Video Camera Project Historical methods of magnification There are many well established historical methods still used today by watchmakers to magnify watch movements while working on them. Without suitable magnification, it is almost an impossible task. To this day, these historical methods still serve the industry well. Stereo and USB microscopes Modern technology has come to the aid of the watch manufacturing and repair industry. Many watchmakers/repairers use stereo and USB microscopes to assist in their work. These have proven to be of benefit for work on extremely small parts such as pivots, hairsprings and so on. Some of these types of microscopes can be connected to monitors so that one can see, magnified and in real time, exactly what is being worked on. However, sometimes the working distance between the watch and the end of the microscope can make life difficult. Microscopes with a reasonable working distance of say, 30cm to 50cm, or even more can be very expensive. Not that one would require more of course. My watchmaker/repairer video camera project As an amateur watch repairer, I have often wished for a better method to magnify and view watch movements in real time on my computer so that I can, without straining my eyes so much, take movements apart and reassemble them. I’ve already mentioned working distance, I think 30cm to 50cm would be a good with its obvious benefits. Also, being able to capture reference photos and HD video is important. To have that capability to stream live video, and upload to YouTube etc. would be an additional benefit. Well, I had an idea for a lightweight camera that should be able to achieve the above. I think my idea may appeal to others. The project cost was reasonable. More on that later. Could I adapt a webcam to suit my requirements? No doubt the idea of using a webcam has been tried before. However, the zoom capability of most webcams is rather limited and they have wide angle lenses. Nearly all have a fixed lens. But a plus point is the webcam management software some manufacturers provide. To be fair, I have never tried using a decent DSLR or camcorder to achieve the above, but I believe I’m correct in thinking firewire connectivity is a problem between modern cameras and computers to monitor in real time. I think it is something to do with the fact they have SD cards. For me though, they seem a bit bulky and expensive for this purpose. I like tinkering with things, my idea was, what if I removed the fixed lens from a webcam and replaced it with one that could be manually adjusted for zoom and focus, together with an acceptable working distance capability and narrower the field of vision. The following is how I went about testing this idea out. How I modified a webcam After researching several different webcams specifications, I decided t adapt a Logitech c920. The c920 has proven to be one of the best webcams and was recently succeeded by the c922. But it is the c920 I used for this modification. The c920 can do real full HD streaming of 1920×1080p @ 30fps with image size up to 2304x1563p. This is how I went about it: I took a Logitech c920 apart to expose the circuit board, its fixed lens and USB wiring assembly. I removed 2 screws securing the lens assembly, then unsoldered the lens and USB screening wire. The lens, complete with its IR low pass filter, came away from the PCB quite easily to expose the CMOS sensor and its infrared (IR) part of the spectrum. For my purpose the IR part of the spectrum is not needed, so I had to add an IR low pass filter. More about that later. I solder connected 30 gauge (0.5mm) single strand wire between the main circuit board and USB board as follows: TP3 to USB board D+ TP2 to USB board D- TP1 to USB board Vcc Removed green solder mask adjacent to TP25 on the main PCB for the GND connection and GND on the USB board. Used the existing shielding solder tab on the main PCB for a shielding connection to the USB socket housing. Unsoldered the four LED’s from the main PCB at D3, D5, D6 and D8. I could have left the diodes in place and simply put some black tape over them. Both the modified circuit board and new USB socket were then mounted into a custom-made aluminum housing having a CS lens thread. Because the original filter was removed with the lens assembly, it had to be replaced with an IR Low Pass filter and mounted with double sided tape in the new custom housing. I then attached a 5-50mm CS varifocal lens with manual iris and focus. This was a f1.4, 3 mega pixels, 1/2.7” lens and suitable for the original Logitech 1/3” format CMOS sensor. Custom watchmaker camera case, rear view. With Logitech c920 lens removed, custom wiring done and circuit board assembled. Front view without the new lens attached, new IR low pass filter is assembled. Parts required 1 x Logitech c920, these can be obtained at a very reasonable price from auction websites. 1 x Custom made box for the reworked c920 circuit board, and with CS type lens mount. 1 x IR low pass filter (to replace the one removed with the c920 fixed lens). 1 x CS lens – f1.4, 5-50mm, 3 megapixel, manual focus and manual zoom. 1 x 5mm CS lens extension ring. Result I now have a camera to zoom in close and a respectable working distance between 30cm to 50cm or more. It can stream live, record videos and take snapshots. I can see all this on my computer, live as I’m working on watch movements. Example full screen captures at a working distance of 30cm At 50cm Paul Stuart’s Professional Watchmaker Video Camera Project – Parts and Specifications Parts price list Logitech C920 webcam £27.00. I got mine off an auction website cheap because the USB wire was broken. This was not needed anyway because of the new connection I was going to make to a new USB output port in the new case. Custom c920 anodised aluminium (aluminium) case. £56.00 0.5mm copper core silver plated bodge wire. £2.00. From auction website Lens 1/2.7" 5-50mm Manual Iris 3 Megapixel Lens. Features: 1. 3 Mega Pixel, manual focus iris and zoom lens 2. 2.1/2.7" High quality 5-50mm varifocal CCTV IR CS lens 3. Low distortion 4. High resolution £89.00 5mm C to CS lens extension ring. £3.00. From auction website. Total spend: £177.00
  3. 6 likes
    This project has got to the stage where I am getting glad it is over. Anyway, crown made, parts sprayed with clear laquer, acrylic fitted and strap fitted. A few other problems I had to deal with to get the watch keeping regular time. The watch now keeps good time and I will regularly wear it and see what snags come up (which I am sure they will !!)
  4. 6 likes
    As I have a timing machine obsession I've accumulated quite a few manuals. So attached is interpretations of the timing machine display. Fortunately whether it's paper electronic etc. interpreting the display is basically the same. There are though some examples where paper tape is nice because you can run along print out like in the PDF number 14. On the other hand with modern timing machines some of them and some of the software you can run a time plot and do the same thing better. Then you have to be careful when interpreting the waveform does as it can almost become like crystal ball reading subject to interpretation. Conveniently are not finding a manual lurking around here which has all sorts of bizarre display's that all start to look the same but have different descriptions of what the problem may or may not be. So the timing machine will point you in a direction but you still have to use good watchmaking skills To figure out what the problem is. Timing-Machine-Charts.PDF
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  6. 5 likes
    I thought I'd break this out as a separate narrative from the Pierce Navigator repair I posted here. Anyone who has done an old chronograph repair is aware of how delicate part 8270 (minute recording jumper) is. The Pierce 134 movement is put together quite a bit differently from your normal chronograph in that it has a vertical clutch arrangement as opposed to the laterally engaged coupling clutch found in the more common Venus and Valjoux chronograph movements. As a result of this uniqueness many parts, while functionally the same, are designed in a wholly different way. The Pierce minute recording jumper (pawl) is different from the typical jumper piece in that it is not a spring, but rather a pivoting lever which is held in tension by the thinest of wires. The wire needs to be manipulated in to put the jumper under just enough tension to hold the minute register wheel static until activated by the intermediate wheel. Too much tension will cause the watch to stop when the elapsed minutes are recorded, and too little tension will allow the minute register wheel to spin freely. Unfortunately it is not uncommon for the wire providing tension to fail after manipulation. Here I have a jumper in which the wire has broken and the jewel (well, actually it's just a cut piece of steel) has come lose. Initially I though it would be a simple fix to replace the broken wire. I used some 18 gauge electrical wire which was composed of several strands of thinner copper wire. Stripping the insulation off, I took a single strand of the copper wire and assumed it would suffice. Under the microscope it was evident that this approach wouldn't work. Even the smallest copper wire I could find was several times thicker than the wire I needed. Using the bench micrometer I measured the thickness of the broken wire at 0.05mm. To give an idea of how thin this is, I snapped a picture under the microscope of the wire next to a human hair. The wire is on top, the hair on the bottom. Armed with hard data I was ready to take a second shot at the challenge. Using the internets I found a company in the UK which could supply nickel wire in the same thickness. I placed an order, then added a couple spools of varying thickness just in case (and to make the product to shipping cost ratio a bit more reasonable). The wire arrived in due course and was exactly as described. I began my repair by knocking out the brass pin which secured the old broken wire to the pawl. A sewing needled was used to knock the pin out. The "jewel" was then replaced using a bit of shellac and a alcohol lamp. Now it was time to replace the spring wire. I cut a length from the spool and threaded it through the eye piece on the jumper. Naturally this was done under a microscope. A replacement pin was inserted to hold the wire in place and the excess was trimmed off using the scissors on my Swiss army knife (they seemed to be the perfect tool for this job). As you can see had two jumpers to repair: I'm very pleased to have been able to repair these parts as they can be quite expensive when purchased second hand; from personal experience I've seen the Valjoux and Venus jumpers cost between $30 and $120 USD which is quite a lot for a little bit of steel. Pierce parts can be hard to come by also. I currently have two Pierces in varying stages of repair so the jumpers will come in handy. On a side note I don't vape so I have no idea why tiny nickel wire is necessary for smokeless smoking.
  7. 4 likes
  8. 4 likes
    Not exactly combining the two but I did build a custom strat once - it was fun, but i ended up taking it to a pro in order to adjust the neck and frets, he did an amazing job.
  9. 4 likes
    About a week back I picked up this Sturmanskie after following @Endeavor and @GeorgeClarkson through the service of their Soviet chronographs. The seller stated the watch dated from 1988 and included the original receipt and box. Unfortunately, I cannot read Cyrillic so I was forced to take the seller at his word; regardless of it's origin though, the watch is a beautiful specimen and I'm happy to have it. Unfortunately I was unable to remove the caseback until today. I took Roland's advice and used a jeweler's hammer and a sharp razor to work my way around the caseback slowly creating enough of a gap for a case knife to exploit. It was a nerve-wracking experience! In the end, the caseback came away with no damage to the watch. I'm always very anxious to gaze upon a new chronograph movement- it's certainly geeky but I'm not afraid to admit it. It looks like I'm not the first to open this case though. Many screws have marks on them indicating they've been removed at some point in the past and replaced. I believed this movement to be 31659, but alas, there is no hacking mechanism that I can see. Over all the movement is in good shape and appears complete. It will need a proper cleaning before it's ready to wear and I'll be sure to post about it when I have the chance.
  10. 4 likes
    I've done a lot of Pierce Navigator repairs in the last year but this one was a bit special as it was the first I completed for someone other than myself. The watch is an heirloom and as such was received in much better condition than the those I've purchased off the bay. The bracelet was broken and would eventually be replaced and right off the bat I noticed that the sweep second hand was missing. The crown was also stuck in the setting position and therefore it was impossible to wind the watch. With the caseback off I could see that the chronograph staff and pinion had actually been removed sometime back. Also missing was the intermediate wheel which activates the minute recording wheel when the chronograph is engaged. My guess is that the rubber clutch for the chronograph had failed sometime in the past and the watchmaker simply removed the other bits as opposed to attempting a fix. I also noted a chip in the upper balance cap jewel. I've never seen a defect such as this before. With the dial removed, the normal accumulation of dirt and debris came to light. The setting lever snapped back into place smartly and with that I was able to check the timing. With the movement out I turned my attention to the case and pushers. The spacers for the pushers often become jammed inside the pusher button as the result of an accumulation of grime beneath the button cap. The springs, which sit between the spacer and the button, are made of stainless steel and generally hold up well over the years. I've discovered that a good soak in vinegar will usually free the spacers and springs from the buttons. With the pushers soaking I turned my attention back to the movement. As I said before, this Pierce 134 is in much better condition than those I've restored in the past. It's clear the owner has taken good care of the watch over the years. Generally I'll follow the Esembl-O-Graf (volume 15) in reverse order when disassembling a Pierce movement. I've done a few now and am getting used to the process. Looking the parts over I didn't find any that required immediate replacement so the only order placed was for a mainspring and crystal (in addition to the missing chronograph staff, pinion, and intermediate wheel). The old crystal was in fair shape but a little loose in the bezel so I opted for a new one. The damaged cap jew was chipped only on the topside and therefore I opted not to replace it. The parts were whisked off to the L&R cleaner and I turned my attention back to the pushers. The vinegar bath succeeded in freeing the spacers and springs from the buttons. I set the parts out for cataloging after cleaning and drying. At this point I'll also do any rust remediation. This movement was in fine shape but the levers for the chronograph did suffer from a bit of oxidation. The rusted bits were placed in a bath of vinegar for a good soak, then any pitting was smoothed using the Dremel tool or a rub on the Arkansas stone. The replacement chronograph staff, pinion, and intermediate wheel arrived in time for assembly. The staff needed a new clutch plate. In the past I've cut these out of nylon and although this is an adequate solution, it makes the final adjustment a lot more difficult since the nylon has so much less give than rubber. A while ago I began experimenting with rubber o-rings as a substitute. I use a rubber o-ring which had a thickness of 2mm. By sharpening an Exacto knife and lubricating it with a bit of watch oil I can cut through the o-ring with very little compression. This results in a disk that is thin enough and flat enough to use as a clutch plate for the chronograph. A punch I made on the lathe is used to place the center hole. Unfortunately since I made the o-rings before I began this service, I didn't have any images of the procedure. Assembly is straightforward provided all the gremlins have been discovered beforehand. The pallet, escape wheel, and cap jewels receive epilame treatment. The balance wheel is cleaned separately with One Dip. Put back together I noted a funky reading not the timegrapher. The culprit was a slightly bent pivot on the pallet. I replaced the pallet with one from my own stock and this resolved the problem straight away. I let the watch run overnight before beginning on the chronograph layer. It comes together a little slower as there are many more parts to lubricate and adjust. A missing sweep second hand can be a real problem with Pierce watches as the center post is 0.35mm (which is large). Fortunately I had a hand in my stock from a parts movement that would do- once I attached a post to it! I have some brass tubing that has an inside diameter of 0.35mm so I just needed to turn the outside diameter down on the lathe and rivet the post to the hand. Here I test the fit of the hand prior to painting. Once that was settled I discovered the post on the minute hand was loose also. A new post was turned on the lathe for it as well. Problems with the chronograph became apparent after fitting the hands. The culprit in this case turned out to be a damaged center jewel. This must have occurred during assembly as the jewel checked out after cleaning. Bad luck. The jewel is pressed in from the topside and so it must be removed by pressing from the bottom side (dial side). Unfortunately the jewel sits at the bottom of a long tube which required me to turn a special adaptor piece on the lathe for my Seitz tool. A replacement jewel was sourced from a donor movement and I was back in business. The owner decided on a replacement crown and a new strap and the watch finally came together. I have a bit of a thing for Pierce watches but at the same time I don't think it's much of a coincidence that the watches housing a Pierce 134 movement only seem to exist from the late 40's and early 50's as they can be a bear to get running right. In the end I was really pleased with this service though.
  11. 4 likes
    Gotta agree with these guys, for what it's worth, I have been a member of several MB's and I would not have stayed at WRT this long, if there wasn't something I could gain from it, even as an amateur repair person, not to mention the diverse personalities and colorful commentary. Your have to admit there is no other site like this and I don't try to curry favor with anyone. Curry: to seek to gain favor by flattery or attention We all get discouraged at sometime or another, when you get stuck trying to do repairs or things in general just don't seem to work no matter what you do. I've wanted to get out of watches altogether a few times but my determination to conquer the seemingly impossible tasks won't let me, maybe it's just me. I do know one thing: you can't be successful at repairs, if you give up. You can PM me with why you want to not be a part of this, maybe I can help change your mind. Dave
  12. 4 likes
    Picked up this Poljot Sturmanskie from the Bay the other day after following @Endeavor through his Poljot 31659 service. I may have paid a little much but this one did come with the original box and papers and also the original bracelet (which is absolute garbage). It's a 1988 model which should have the 31659 movement inside. Most everything runs fine although the stem is bent as the crown wobbles and the hack doesn't seem to work. It also sounds a bit tinny... I'll have to get it properly cleaned and lubricated before wearing it. I would offer up a pic of the movement but getting the case open is about as easy as getting into Fort Knox. I'll have to figure out how to get inside without damaging the piece. I'll post picks of the service when I get to it but right now I'm knee deep in another chronograph repair.
  13. 4 likes
    Scouseget, When you harden metal (steel) it will be more resistant to wear, more difficult to machine, but also will become brittle and more prone to breakage. When you anneal metal (steel) it is in a softer state and easier to machine, but the yield strength (the ability to resist permanent deformation) is lowered to a point where it can become unusable for some applications. Normalizing metal is a process to relieve stresses in the metal in order to reduce warpage when it is machined. This is necessary when machining prestressed metal such as cold rolled steel. Yield strength is a critical factor to consider when machining pivots. This is the major reason the steel must be tempered. Tempering will back the steel down from a hard brittle state to a state between soft and hard. The goal is to maximize the yield strength and still have sufficient wear characteristics.This state can also be called spring hardness. This will be the metal's optimum ability to resist deformation. When pressure (cutter pressure) is applied to the pivot, it will be less likely to break. Spring tempered steel will also provide a certain amount of protection from pivot breakage in the finished product. If you have tried to machine a pivot from steel in a soft state you should notice that it cuts fairly easily but once you turn the diameter down to about .015 inches (.38mm), the pivot will bend and break under the cutter pressure. Even though the pivot is more difficult to cut when tempered to a spring hardness than with the metal in a soft state, the resistance to deformation and breakage provides a way to get the pivot from .015 inches (.38mm) down to the required .004 inches (.1mm). There are alternative ways to reduce the pivot down to the required size such as grinding it down with a stone in a Jacot lathe, but machining it this way can run the risk of getting the pivot out of round and destroying its concentricity. david
  14. 4 likes
    I just finished working on this Seiko Bellmatic project watch . I received a beat up Bellmatic that had a filthy knicked up case and bracelet , broken pallet fork , broken hairspring , a paperclip holding the band to the case , about a quart of oil in the movement , BUT , nice blue dial and rotating chapter ring . I bought a working Bellmatic on the bay with no bracelet , and Poof !! , it morphed into this very nice , properly working project watch . I have worked on Swiss , Japanese , and other mechanical watches including chronographs . Accutrons , Hamilton electrics ., and AS 1475 alarm watches that are used by a few different Swiss manufactures , But these Seiko Bellmatics are a bit of a challenge to work on . I have the Seiko manual in a binder that has the tech sheets for this watch , and the info goes on for page after page .
  15. 4 likes
    Yup , I live on Oahu . For anyone that's interested , the State fish is the ...Humuhumunukunukuapua'a... a little fish with a big name .
  16. 4 likes
    Got the ring from Cousins and it finished up like this........
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    That's where you plug it into a 240volt supply. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. 3 likes
    This forum, IMHO may have the best members of any forum I have ever visited or became a member of. It provides all the information and help you can possibly need. And while some of the questions might seem superfluous to the knowledgeable. Not once have I seen anyone flamed or ridiculed in any way. Special thanks to the Forum Administrator Marc who's YouTube videos first attracted me here and who probably deserves most of the credit, as I feel the people on top set the pace. Marc reminds me of Bob Ross the painter who use to have a show on PBS. Bob had a calm way of explaining his Technique and While I could not even draw a stick figure, I found myself watching what he was doing on many occasions. Also I would like to thank everyone for the help I received so far. Regards Anthony
  19. 3 likes
    I've been looking for a long time for one of these, and this popped up on the bay without much of a description, it was clearly being sold by someone who didn't know much about it, from the photos, it looked like a 7750 movement holder to me, so I took a gamble, and was pleasantly surprised when it arrived, in perfect working order, but above all, it sure is for the 7750 movement DSC07931 by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr DSC07934 by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr Think I may put it through my ultrasonic bath to remove the staining as its clear its been sitting unused for some time. All the pushers, pivot holders, and screws are free, so will remove those prior to that and grease them. Next movement holder I want to get it the dedicated 7753 holder, probably get that from Boley.
  20. 3 likes
    During the early part of the 20th century with the miniaturisation of watch movements many novelty items where produced all by very well respected watch manufactures and jewellers, penknives, keys, ladys compacts, cigarette lighters all at one time where produced with watch faces utalising movements normally used in ladies cocktail watches. In my collection I own one such novelty a propelling pencil made by Carl.F.Bucherer and produced in the mid 1920's, these pencils can be found with various names Cartier, Dunhill and Rolex. The Rolex ones where made by Bucherer for them and are extremely rare. The one I own is signed Bucherer and is made from solid silver they where also produced in 18ct and 14ct gold and some of the silver ones where enameld with various designs. I have seen two versions of the basic design of these watches one version has the watch permantley on display at the top of the pen the other has a hidden watch which is revealed by releasing a catch on the side of the pencil releasing a spring so the watch pops out of the top. The pencil is around 5 and a half inches and the watch face being oblong in shape and measuring 9mm by 15mm The watch part of the pencil can be pulled upwards and then unscrewed from the main body of pencil this reveals a hole into which the pencil leads are placed The watch part is held together with a screw on the top or in some cases a loop attached to a chain so it can be worn around the neck, undoing this allows the back to be taken off inside is a high quality 15 jewel movement it has proved to be very accurate the only problem with a oblong faced watch of this size is it can be extremley difficult to read at a glance The whole thing is beautifully finished with engine turned detail throughout the length of the watch, the pencil lead is deployed via a twist mechanism at the tip It is a fine example of the craftmanship of the era in which it was made it would have been very expensive in its day to buy even though being meerly a novelty. The only difficultey I had with this watch when purchased the crystal was broken in two, I could not find one of the correct size so ordered the next nearest from cousins it came about a month after ordering I then had to file it to size. Wayne
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    Hi guys, Wearing an old Rotary today. This is an older watch, probably from the 40s. The case is Gold-plated and has seen some wear. Under the "Rotary' it says 'Super sports' . Above the sub-seconds dial it says 'shock-absorber' and 'anti-magnetic'. It has fixed lugs which makes swapping strap difficult, the one it has on is meant for fixed lugs and has a sturdy fold-over (probably metal inside) which clips on the lug. It has nice simple hands which have been blued well, the center of the minute hand has been left silver given a niece contrast. The case back is a faithful rendition of the dark side of the moon. Nice hands The dark side of the moon... not much can be done here without spending too much money. The inside of the dark side of the moon.. I believe the '38' means 1938? At any rate, its more than 10 years old ;so good job Meteor! When you pop off the bac, the movement stays in the caseback. You have to use a bit of force, working around the edges, before it comes away and you are left with this.. an inner caseback. This is comes off easily. Revealing the movement. I think it's an FHF of some sort. Note the early form of shock protection on the balance cock .. the cap jewel is retained by a spring plate and will 'give' is subjected to a hard knock. The problem with these early shock absorbers is that they were only mildly effective and that only if it hit the ground level. It had not much lateral movement built-in so if it landed edge-on the pivot would still break. Still better than no shock-absorber I suppose, If I am not mistaken Breguet pioneer this and later on it is common to find a similar system on Cyma watches. The ratchet-wheel has the normal Rotary 'Flying-wheel' which reminds me of a vintage car..Austin I think? You can see the early type dial holding screws at 6 o'clock and slightly after 12. The movement is marked 7/440 and just belove that there's a 'V" or maybe the 'pheon'? The watch runs well and keeps time. I haven't done anything to it but the regulator is cranked over to slow so there may be other issues, need to get some case screws too. Not so evident from the pictures is that the plates have been plated with a 'whiter' finish which looks like silver. You see similar on Movado movements. Finally in the era before center seconds, 15 jewels was as good as it got so this would have been made for the higher end of the market. v Well its almost the weekend so have a good one! Anilv
  22. 3 likes
    My Dad repaired watches for half a century and played lead guitar and mandolin on weekends for just as long. He made both look easy... My sisters and I sometimes helped him pack up his instruments after a gig. One time, my sister put his Les Paul behind the car... he thought she'd put it in the trunk (boot) and he backed over it. Yikes!!! He bought another guitar and gave the broken guitar to his friend, who rebuilt it and played it for years. By some miracle my sister is still alive.
  23. 3 likes
    I also combine the two been playing since i was about 12 but I,m now learing how to play again after my stroke last year it is smashing therapy tho gets your brain working again. luckily it was on the right side so my fingering hand wasnt affected but strumming sometimes is a pain but the pickings ok for lead breaks sort of lost the use of my wrist.
  24. 3 likes
    Ok, quick update. Returned to TAG UK repair centre. Good news is that the bezel will be replaced 'on this occasion' free of charge. They have not given any indication yet as to what caused the damage or why it was returned in this condition after they serviced it in the first place. Only downside is that at the moment they are estimating another month until the watch is returned. I'll update again when the watch is returned.....
  25. 3 likes
    Lol. It was. Just picked them from a tree - I asked what they were and they said Fuhk - i said wash your mouth out!!! .... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  26. 3 likes
    For the last weeks I have I tried soaking the bridge in degreaser and isopropanol for some time and then using compressed air to blow it clean. No luck. However, recently I bought an Elmasolvex SE and yesterday I received my Elma cleaning fluids. After one clean/rinse/dry- cycle both holes are spotless. God bless German quality machines :).
  27. 3 likes
    That is a strange objection, but I want to address it from my position of happy member. Maybe you have missed the fact that Mark created and maintains this forum, as well the videos, which are totally free for everyone. He sustains not just the operating costs, he also share his knowledge for free. A very generous act. Everything he can do to further divulge and fund this forum and his videos is just logical and welcome. Very different from whatever advertising by members. I will order my cup now but will use it only for holding tools because I only drink espresso [emoji4]
  28. 3 likes
    Last night whilst reassembling a Felsa 1560 I fired the Return Bar Spring from the keyless work across the room, 45 minutes of searching failed to find it. I'm now about to spend £5.81 plus £2.88 postage to get another one from Cousins. It was bound to happen to me sooner or later, just hope it doesn't happen too often.
  29. 3 likes
    Welcome to the Club! Did you try the vacuum approach? - vacuum the carpet then go through the dust bag? Magnet approach? - trail a magnet on a string over the area? Or did you fall on your knees, cursing creation? - that sometimes helps!
  30. 3 likes
    For your entertainment, watch disassembly in 45 seconds Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  31. 3 likes
    I think I'll give a little wrist time to this vintage 70's Gruen Precision Electronic . The most noticeable feature of this watch is the large thick cushion has some heft . It is fitted with a German PUW movement .
  32. 3 likes
    Thanks for volunteering....For he's a jolly good fellow , yada , yada , ya-da...
  33. 3 likes
    @RyMoeller Nice find As in my walkthrough, IMHO best is to take a scalpel knife and a small hammer. Put the case on a scratch free "hardish" surface (so the vibrations don't get through to the movement) and slowly work, gently tapping with the hammer, the scalpel around the whole seam (360 degrees around), slowly opening the seam. After you created a big enough gap (you still need some dynamite) you insert your blunt watch case opening knife and it should "pop-off". Next to the damage I had already done trying it the "supposedly" way, this caused no additional, or minimum extra damage / scratches, but it may damage the flat O-ring (which isn't that hard to get, not the original, mind you). The movement number 31659 should be stamped on the chrono-bridge, and the date on the balance bridge; at least that was the case on mine, which had never been opened since it left the factory in 1988. Having said that, I noticed missing screws in mine, so one never knows what the factory worker decided to do with your watch on that day Oh, yes ......... you may need a 10 ton press to close it @ricardopalamino Me president?
  34. 3 likes
    Here's my two cents (which, owing to inflation and all, isn't worth a plugged nickel). Use your naked eye for what you can. If you need more, use one of those jeweler's headband magnifiers. To get in closer, use a 3x, 4x, 10x loupe. To get down to the nitty-gritty (hairsprings, roller jewels, etc) use a 20x loupe or resort to a microscope. The more the power, the closer you have to get to your work and the more distortion you'll have around the edges. My eyeballs are older than Accutrons, so I use a 10x loupe as pretty much a standard practice. No matter what you use, be sure to have some fun with this rewarding hobby!
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    Wearing a HMT 'Slim' handwind today. It's from India (HMT is an Indian watch manufacturer) and it's a new watch for around USD20 plus shipping. DIal is an orangey salmon pink, not usually my first choice but I was attracted to the simple design. Even though its advertised as slim, its not really slim.. I figure its about 8mm thick, but it wears thin because of the case design. The movement is based on the Citizen 0200 series movement, even the Citizen 'parashock' is used but the retaining jewel's mount is not as 'glossy' as on an original Citizen! Textured dial n Citizen ancestry is visible but the finishing is not a patch on the original, pretty co**BLEEP** actually. I'm pretty sure dials will swap across, actual parts like wheels may not. Will probably try it one day. Its a chrome plated case so it may not last as long as a Stainless steel one but as an occasional watch watch it should be fine as long as I wipe it down with a wet tissue after putting it away. Performance wise it's fine, I strapped it on Monday morning and 24 hours later its pretty much spot on, thanks to that big balance! Good value in my opinion. Anilv
  36. 3 likes
    Its a Omega of course it has value, its a mid thirties stainless steel Lepine or open face pocket watch if working i would put it at about £80 to a £100, the dial is a little grotty and the bow is'nt original but clean it up its a nice watch. the calibre is a 40.6LT1 or 40.6LT2 this movement ran from 1923 to 1936.
  37. 3 likes
    Off to a family gathering tonight so i thought I'd power up my favourite watch the old Sportsmatic 6601-1990 manufactured May 1965 which makes it a year older than me and it works better and looks better than me too.
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    I'm very pleased, having got it back together and it's ticking away nicely. Thanks for your guidance Marc; once I'd put the crown wheel in the right way up it all worked a treat. Just a bit of fiddling with the stem which didn't want to go in all the way at first. Here's the ticking movement: And here's the final outcome, on a cheap ebay bracelet until I find something better: By the way my wife tells me it IS blue, but it still looks green to my weird eyes. Cheers, Kevin
  39. 3 likes
    For no reason but the crystal reflection, which I find kind of sexy. Since then I've got a real macro lens but in hindsight maybe it wasn't so necessary...
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    After you have mastered what you intend to do with the P/W. You should try a Gents watch, not to complected, get used to handling the small parts, take everything to bits and I mean everything. Next up one with calendar work, auto and ladies small movements then ladies calendar work, auto. If you were on BHI course you wouldn't be working on chronographs until your final years, that would be after you master how to make and fit a balance staff.
  41. 3 likes
    Hi Kevin That's a very nice SCUBA Dude you have there. That little washer looks suspiciously like the washer that goes on the crown wheel screw arrowed If it is then it means that the crown wheel screw must be adrift somewhere in the movement which could be the cause of the stoppage. Beware when it comes to dealing with this screw though as it is a lefty even though it isn't marked as such. Have a look here for a walk through on another 2416b Amphibia (also a blue SCUBA Dude); Just ask if you have any issues when you do yours. Good luck, and enjoy.
  42. 3 likes
    I could not find an adequate lower balance jewel already in casing so I removed the jewel from its casing and found a replacement that fit the pivot and fit the hole, and tada it fits. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  43. 3 likes
    Many times we tend to make absolutes in watch repair when it's not an absolute. So the effect of a magnetic field will vary modern watches supposedly are not affected. Yet I know of some professional shops where they are obsessively concerned about magnetic fields and Watchmakers are continuously demagnetizing their watches perhaps to the point of lunacy. Although the particular shop in question one of the watchmakers did a demonstration of the effect of putting a magnetic next to one of the so-called watch that can't be magnetized and there is a reason why they do what they do. So on older watches with steel hairspring if enough magnetic field is applied the hairspring coils conceivably could stick together shortening the hairspring and running abnormally fast. Images attached section of a timing machine manual explaining what a magnetic field could do to a watch. Then timing machine image the one with the sine wave was before the watch was demagnetized hen the other one is afterwords. This was a small 12 size approximately Howard pocket watch in desperate need of servicing which is why the amplitude is insanely low and the beat looks bad.
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    My pen pal , member ramrod , gifted me with a couple of vintage Bulova's recently including this 1957 Bulova Senator . The only things to detract from the looks of this little beauty is brassing of the case and a crown that has seen better days . I will keep my eyes peeled for a better crown . I put some file marks on this one so I could grasp it for winding . The dial and movement are in really great shape . I cleaned and serviced the movement which is an 11 ALAC , cleaned the case and watchband , sanded and polished the crystal , cleaned the hands up a bit and did a re-lume although I have to get a better lume kit soon . ..........Thanks , ramrod, they say here in the islands , "you da best..."
  45. 2 likes
    for the case back, did you try this one? I bought one for a very stubborn case back and it worked.
  46. 2 likes
    Today I chose this little Para with valjoux 72 movement.
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    There's nothing really like WRT on the web. Most sites are "Just look how pretty my watch looks today" why delete your account ? Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk
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    Got hold of this very nice Record Watch with call 6112 handwind movement, beating at 28000bpm No plate loss 20 microns, gave the case and dial a clean and polished the crystal then fitted a nice ostrich grain leather strap. Any info on the movement greatly appreciated. These Watches are very underated in my opinion and may eventually go up in value.
  50. 2 likes
    A bit of vintage Russian for me this evening.... Poljot De Luxe 29 jewel auto. Featuring the lovely Poljot 2415 "Orbita" movement, the thinnest auto movement of its day apart from the micro rotors. I just finished a full strip down service on this today and am giving it a little test drive. I will probably post the full walk through shortly.