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  1. 15 likes
    When fitting new stems to watches I use these tools :- Digital calipers, Fine grade diamond lap Wire cutter Pin vice Now for fitting. (1) Hold the stem in the pin vice and screw on the crown tightly by hand. (2) With the movement fitted correctly in the case, insert the stem until it locks in place. Now measure the gap between the case and the underside of the stem. In this case it is 2.16mm. (3) Subtract 0.2mm from this size and this will give the amount to remove from the stem. In this case it will be 1.96mm which will give 0.2mm clearance below the crown when fitted to the watch. (4) Now remove the crown from the stem and hold the stem very tightly in the pin vice, then place the pin vice and stem between the jaws of the digital calipers then zero the calipers. (5) Remove the calipers and without touching the zero button set them to minus 1.96mm. THEN RE-ZERO THE CALIPERS AT THIS LENGTH The wire cutters are now used cut off the excess thread leaving a small amount to be filed to the exact length. (6) All that is required now is to dress the stem with the diamond lap a little at a time until the calipers read zero. (7) Finally screw the crown on tightly and it should be ready to fit to the watch without further adjustment. I find that this method cuts down on trial and error. FOR SCREW DOWN CROWNS. A) Screw down the crown tightly onto the case without the stem and measure the distance nbetween the bottom of the crown and the case. B ) Screw the new stem tightly into the crown, then insert into the watch until it engages and locks into the movement. C) Press the crown down firmly as far as it will go and hold it there. D) Using the vernier callipers, measure the distance between the bottom of the crown and the case. E) Subtract the size determined in (D) from the size measured in (A) then subtract a further 0.15mm from this size. This is the amount to shorten the stem by. This should allow the crown to screw full home without compressing the stem too tightly between the movement and the inside of the crown. F) Cut the stem leaving it slightly longer than the size determined in (E), and dress down to size using the diamond lap and vernier callipers as described in the original post. G) Screw the crown onto the shortened stem and check fit and function, before using a tiny spot of Loctite 221 to secure. Click here to view the article
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    ETA 7750 Service Walkthrough The 7750 was first available in 1974, having been one of the first movements to be designed with the aid of a computer. It's hard to believe that the 7750 is still the industry standard movement for chronographs considering it's history. It was developed over 40 years ago by Valjoux, who was then a legendary movement maker that was part of the giant ASUAG conglomerate. But by the end of 1975 production was stopped due to the onslaught of the Quartz Era, and the 7750, along with many other mechanical calibers, was abandoned. Industry demand for this movement was so low that the stock produced in that 1 year manufacturing lasted until 1982! Such was the devastation of cheap Japanese produced quartz watches to Swiss manufactures. History may have forgotten the 7750 except for the local management at Zenith who ignored the orders by Valjoux to destroy the dies and equipment used to manufacture the 7750, instead hiding the equipment away from corporate eyes. You can find many more fascinating facts about this caliber online, and it's well worth the read. ................................................... This walkthrough will be very detailed, and I hope this will give people the courage to tackle this movement. I've serviced quite a few calibers, and this is one of the most beautiful, with a very logical layout. ETA7750 Tech.PDF If you have built your skills with basic movements, and become proficient in servicing them, I would highly recommend this movement to be your first chronograph to tackle. Lets begin. DEMAGNETIZE THE MOVEMENT BEFORE DISASSEMBLY. Remove the Day Indicator and store it in a safe place where it won't be damaged. Unscrew (0.8 Driver) the Jumper Maintaining Plate and remove it. Do the same for the Date Indicator Maintaining Plate Carefully remove the Jumpers Spring, holding it with a piece of pegwood so it doesn't ping away. Next remove the jumpers for the day and date. The jumpers differ from one another, so here is a reference photo so you can see the difference. Remove the Date Indicator and place it in a safe place where it won't be damaged. The last piece to remove on the Date Platform is the Double Corrector Now unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Date Platform and gentle pry it from the movement. Be careful when removing this plate, as there is a fine spring pressed into the plate that can be easily damaged. Here is a reference photo of the screws that hold the Date Platform. Remove the Hour Hammer Spring, once again using the pegwood to hold the spring while removing the tension. Here is a reference photo of the correct orientation of the spring. Remove the Hour Counter Lock. Remove the Hour Hammer Operating Lever. Next is the Hour Hammer, be careful when removing this item so as not to damage the Hour-Counting Wheel. Now remove the Hour-Counting Wheel. Remove the Date Indicator Driving Wheel Remove the Day Star Driving Wheel Then remove the Intermediate Calendar Driving Wheel Remove the Hour Wheel Then the Minute Wheel Remove the Cannon Pinion, which does not require a puller. The last component to be removed on this side of the Main Plate is the Driver Cannon Pinion. To lift the Driver Cannon Pinion I used what Mark used, a set of hand lifter from Horotec (MSA05.007); but you can also use a Presto Tool (30636-1) which will also work well. The dial side of the movement is now complete disassembled. Flip the movement over and unscrew (1.5 Driver) the Oscillating Weight. To remove the Hammer Spring lift it up gently over the automatic work and move it inwards. This will move the tail of the spring in a clockwise motion to the opening in the slots, which will free the spring. Slide out the Clutch Spring. Here is a reference photo of this spring, and it's orientation. Remove the screws (1.4 Driver) for the Automatic Device Bridge, and gently pry it loose. Here is a reference photo of these screws for the bridge. Once the Automatic Bridge has been removed, the two wheels for the automatic work are able to be removed. Below is a reference photo of how the sit inside the bridge. We now begin to disassemble the chronograph section of this movement. Begin with removing the Hammer, 2 Functions. Next remove the Clutch 60s, 2 Functions. Then remove the Minute-counting Wheel, 30min. Remove the Chronograph Wheel 60s, 30min. Gently lift out the Oscillating Pinion, 60s. Here is a reference photo of the orientation of this pinion. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Chronograph Bridge and gently pry it off the Train Wheel Bridge. Remove the Ratchet Driving Wheel. Remove the Chronograph Wheel Fiction. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Operating Lever, 2 Functions. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Lock, 2 Functions. Next remove the Minute-counter Driving Wheel, 30min. Slide out the Operating Lever Spring, 2 Functions. This spring can be fitting in both directions; but only 1 way is correct. Here is a reference photo of it's correct orientation. Remove the Switch. Here I digress from the order the SwissLab document illustrates the order of removal. They show to remove the Chronograph Cam before removing the Hammer Cam Jumper. This in my opinion is not the best way, as all the force from the jumper is pressing on the cam whilst your trying to remove it, and could lead to damage. Instead I move the Chronograph Cam until it reaches the notch as shown in the photo below. Then lift the Hammer Cam Jumper up to the top of the Chronograph Cam, which will release it's tension. Then, just as you removed the previous hammer, rotate the jumper to the opening in the slots, which will free the spring. Now you can unscrew (1.4 Driver) and remove the Chronograph Cam safely without tension on it. RELEASE THE MAINSPRING TENSION Once the tension has been released, unscrew (1.4 Driver) and remove the Balance Cock. Then unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Pallet Bridge and remove the bridge and Pallets. Unscrew (1.2 Driver) and remove the Ratchet Wheel. Then remove the Crown Wheel. Unscrew (1.4 Driver) the Train Wheel Bridge and gently pry it off the Main Plate. Note that one of the screws is under the Operating Lever. This needs to be moved out of the way to access this screw. The last level of this movement contains the train. Here is a reference photo of the wheel locations. Remove the Stop Lever. Remove the Great Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Remove the Third Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Remove the Second Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Note this has the long lower pivot. Remove the Escape Wheel. Here is a reference photo of the underneath of this wheel. Then remove the Barrel. This completes the removal of the train. Flip the movement over so we can complete the disassembly by removing the keyless work. Firstly, release the tension from the Setting Lever Jumper. Then unscrew (1.2 Driver) and remove the Setting Lever Jumper. These are unique screws with pointed ends, and below is a reference photo of them. This will also remove the Intermediate Setting Wheel. Next remove the Setting Wheel Then remove the Yoke. Remove the Setting Lever. Remove the Rocking Bar. Now pull out the Stem. Once the Stem is removed the Winding and Sliding Pinion should fall out of the movement onto your work mat. Disassembly of the 7750 is now complete If you've come this far, congratulation on completing the disassembly. Make sure you pegwood all the jewels and reinstall the Balance back onto the movement for cleaning. Assembly of the movement will be posted as soon as I complete the write-up.
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    Well I would definitely start with Moebius 9010 (for train wheels and balance endstones) and 9020 (for train wheels) if you are working on Pocket Watches. Moebius 9415 is a must for Pallet/Escape wheel teeth. A quality silicon grease. Moebius D5 is essential (barrel arbor, motion work). Molycote DX or Moebius 9501 grease for keyless work. Moebius 9501 or 9504 for high friction (e.g. Cannon pinion, Setting lever spring and anything at high friction). Moebius 8200 grease for mainspring. It's a lot but at a minimum get 9010, 9415, D5 and 8200 I hope this helps.
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    Hey all, Here is my first Service Walkthrough for servicing the Favre-Leuba 253 movement. I found it easier to do this in a word processor and save it as a PDF rather than trying to make it into a giant post. I hope that's ok. I welcome any and all constructive criticism of the document. FL_253_Service.pdf
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    I like to pick out a watch from my collection from time to time and give it a check and run to make sure it's working OK. I was wearing a particularly tight (round the wrist) shirt and sweater the other day, which make checking my watch difficult, so remembered I had a nice 1950s Marvin Hermetic on a Bonklip strap. The Bonklip was designed to be worn outside a shirt or jacket in cold conditions where it had to be referenced easily without constantly pushing up clothing - hence its popularity in aviation. Anyway, I checked out the movement - the regulator is bang in the middle - and have been wearing it for several days now. Perfect time running; a little stiffness when changing the time indicates a clean and lube is probably in order at some stage.
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    My current favourite. I've been looking forward to this all day. No doubt followed later with a nip or two: It's winding down time folks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    Hong Kong airport Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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    I've done a lot of Pierce Navigator repairs in the last year but this one was a bit special as it was the first I completed for someone other than myself. The watch is an heirloom and as such was received in much better condition than the those I've purchased off the bay. The bracelet was broken and would eventually be replaced and right off the bat I noticed that the sweep second hand was missing. The crown was also stuck in the setting position and therefore it was impossible to wind the watch. With the caseback off I could see that the chronograph staff and pinion had actually been removed sometime back. Also missing was the intermediate wheel which activates the minute recording wheel when the chronograph is engaged. My guess is that the rubber clutch for the chronograph had failed sometime in the past and the watchmaker simply removed the other bits as opposed to attempting a fix. I also noted a chip in the upper balance cap jewel. I've never seen a defect such as this before. With the dial removed, the normal accumulation of dirt and debris came to light. The setting lever snapped back into place smartly and with that I was able to check the timing. With the movement out I turned my attention to the case and pushers. The spacers for the pushers often become jammed inside the pusher button as the result of an accumulation of grime beneath the button cap. The springs, which sit between the spacer and the button, are made of stainless steel and generally hold up well over the years. I've discovered that a good soak in vinegar will usually free the spacers and springs from the buttons. With the pushers soaking I turned my attention back to the movement. As I said before, this Pierce 134 is in much better condition than those I've restored in the past. It's clear the owner has taken good care of the watch over the years. Generally I'll follow the Esembl-O-Graf (volume 15) in reverse order when disassembling a Pierce movement. I've done a few now and am getting used to the process. Looking the parts over I didn't find any that required immediate replacement so the only order placed was for a mainspring and crystal (in addition to the missing chronograph staff, pinion, and intermediate wheel). The old crystal was in fair shape but a little loose in the bezel so I opted for a new one. The damaged cap jew was chipped only on the topside and therefore I opted not to replace it. The parts were whisked off to the L&R cleaner and I turned my attention back to the pushers. The vinegar bath succeeded in freeing the spacers and springs from the buttons. I set the parts out for cataloging after cleaning and drying. At this point I'll also do any rust remediation. This movement was in fine shape but the levers for the chronograph did suffer from a bit of oxidation. The rusted bits were placed in a bath of vinegar for a good soak, then any pitting was smoothed using the Dremel tool or a rub on the Arkansas stone. The replacement chronograph staff, pinion, and intermediate wheel arrived in time for assembly. The staff needed a new clutch plate. In the past I've cut these out of nylon and although this is an adequate solution, it makes the final adjustment a lot more difficult since the nylon has so much less give than rubber. A while ago I began experimenting with rubber o-rings as a substitute. I use a rubber o-ring which had a thickness of 2mm. By sharpening an Exacto knife and lubricating it with a bit of watch oil I can cut through the o-ring with very little compression. This results in a disk that is thin enough and flat enough to use as a clutch plate for the chronograph. A punch I made on the lathe is used to place the center hole. Unfortunately since I made the o-rings before I began this service, I didn't have any images of the procedure. Assembly is straightforward provided all the gremlins have been discovered beforehand. The pallet, escape wheel, and cap jewels receive epilame treatment. The balance wheel is cleaned separately with One Dip. Put back together I noted a funky reading not the timegrapher. The culprit was a slightly bent pivot on the pallet. I replaced the pallet with one from my own stock and this resolved the problem straight away. I let the watch run overnight before beginning on the chronograph layer. It comes together a little slower as there are many more parts to lubricate and adjust. A missing sweep second hand can be a real problem with Pierce watches as the center post is 0.35mm (which is large). Fortunately I had a hand in my stock from a parts movement that would do- once I attached a post to it! I have some brass tubing that has an inside diameter of 0.35mm so I just needed to turn the outside diameter down on the lathe and rivet the post to the hand. Here I test the fit of the hand prior to painting. Once that was settled I discovered the post on the minute hand was loose also. A new post was turned on the lathe for it as well. Problems with the chronograph became apparent after fitting the hands. The culprit in this case turned out to be a damaged center jewel. This must have occurred during assembly as the jewel checked out after cleaning. Bad luck. The jewel is pressed in from the topside and so it must be removed by pressing from the bottom side (dial side). Unfortunately the jewel sits at the bottom of a long tube which required me to turn a special adaptor piece on the lathe for my Seitz tool. A replacement jewel was sourced from a donor movement and I was back in business. The owner decided on a replacement crown and a new strap and the watch finally came together. I have a bit of a thing for Pierce watches but at the same time I don't think it's much of a coincidence that the watches housing a Pierce 134 movement only seem to exist from the late 40's and early 50's as they can be a bear to get running right. In the end I was really pleased with this service though.
  12. 4 likes
    Recorded polishing pivots on a vintage Elgin Pocket Watch. Check it out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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    I just returned from Canton Ohio, (birthplace of Dueber Hampden) and had an opportunity to visit Wm. McKinley museum for some extended research. Lo and behold, there was the clock movement from one of the towers at the factory. It's a E. Howard & Co. and refreshed with a John Deere tractor green colored paint! As the locals say after the factory was demolished in 1958, it was stored for several years at somebody's home. I don't know who did the restoration, but it looks brand new. (and it works)
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    Just purchased a vintage demagnitizer and it did not work. So into the guts I went. I disassembled the demagnitizer and found that one of the power leads that was previously soldered to a plate had detached. So to repair it, I drilled a hole in the plate and prepped the cable (cleaned) into the hole; then soldered it into place. It now works. Discount on next purchase:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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    Had an interview today and wore this for luck. I had this overhauled over the Summer and it is a handsome piece indeed. Month, day, weekday are set..the moon phase...maybe I can count the clicks? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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    I've been looking for a long time for one of these, and this popped up on the bay without much of a description, it was clearly being sold by someone who didn't know much about it, from the photos, it looked like a 7750 movement holder to me, so I took a gamble, and was pleasantly surprised when it arrived, in perfect working order, but above all, it sure is for the 7750 movement DSC07931 by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr DSC07934 by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr Think I may put it through my ultrasonic bath to remove the staining as its clear its been sitting unused for some time. All the pushers, pivot holders, and screws are free, so will remove those prior to that and grease them. Next movement holder I want to get it the dedicated 7753 holder, probably get that from Boley.
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    This forum, IMHO may have the best members of any forum I have ever visited or became a member of. It provides all the information and help you can possibly need. And while some of the questions might seem superfluous to the knowledgeable. Not once have I seen anyone flamed or ridiculed in any way. Special thanks to the Forum Administrator Marc who's YouTube videos first attracted me here and who probably deserves most of the credit, as I feel the people on top set the pace. Marc reminds me of Bob Ross the painter who use to have a show on PBS. Bob had a calm way of explaining his Technique and While I could not even draw a stick figure, I found myself watching what he was doing on many occasions. Also I would like to thank everyone for the help I received so far. Regards Anthony
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    Not exactly combining the two but I did build a custom strat once - it was fun, but i ended up taking it to a pro in order to adjust the neck and frets, he did an amazing job.
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    I finished painting the dial quite some time ago, but was searching for the right combination of components to put it all together! I hope you guys like it, if not, at least, find it interesting! Yes, another Hamilton pocket watch movement converted into a wristwatch. Also, These cases are quite nice and are very well made. The strap is a dark blue crocodile grain leather.
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    No wimpy ebay/made in China, blue plastic. $6 dollar watch demagnetizer here. I got me a badass demagnetizer—a 1902 Boettger & Wittig machine made in the U.S.A (Milwaukee WI). I did find it on ebay and bid $35 to win the auction. I didn’t care if it worked as I could make a steam-punk lamp out of it—If I could also use it to demagnetize watches/tools that would be a bonus. I finally got up the nerve to plug it in and after some trial and error I found that it does work. The tool is not UL listed (to say the least) and if the operator touches the terminals where the vintage lamp cord is connected, or the metal on the draw bar it presumably causes instant electrocution as these parts have 120 volts present. In 1902 electricity was still new and I am guessing that anyone that purchased one of these machines had enough education/common sense to not touch the metal parts with it plugged in. I had a question about its operation as the original instructions really don’t explain the finer points of how it works. The tools can be powered by either direct current (D.C.) or alternating current (A.C.) and both were available in 1902 for consumer use. At the time Westinghouse (A.C.) and Edison (D.C) were battling it out over which one was better—Westinghouse won.I drew arrows to show the flow of current. 120 volts is connected to the screw terminals. The light bulb is in series in the circuit and adds resistance to lower the amount of current flowing to the coil. From the light bulb the wires are connected to a wiper that touches one side of the draw bar (pulled out part way at left—yellow arrows indicate 120v). The other 120v terminal connects to the other side of the drawbar. The coil has two wipers that touch each side of the draw bar. When the drawbar is pulled out the coil wipers alternate between each side of the drawbar (you can see the interlocking pattern of the metal on the drawbar) and thus the coil reverses magnetic polarity as the wiper arms touch the different sides of the drawbar. When plugged in the circuit is in one of three states depending on the position of the drawbar: 1) the light is bright and the coil is not receiving current, 2) the light dims indicating that the bulb is in series with the coil with is now an electro magnet, and 3) the coil 120v supply is reversed and swaps north and south magnetic poles.With a screwdriver inside the coil If I pull the drawbar out so the light is dim (coil is on) and leave it for 4 seconds, then shut the tool off the screwdriver becomes magnetic. If I do the same thing but slowly remove the screwdriver from the coil about 2 ft. then shut the current off the screwdriver becomes demagnetized. The same thing happens when I slide the drawbar in/out but the light flickers as it is intermittent to the circuit. So my question is (finally got there) what advantage does sliding the drawbar out to either magnetize or demagnetize watches/tools have. The tool works the same either way—using the drawbar or just turning on the coil.I included the instructions for reference. They are written in the formal language of 1902 and it is difficult to understand what they are trying to convey.
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    it's the flight rated configuration because I'm a huge fan of spaceflight.
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    I've put some new designs in the store http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/watch-repair-tshirts.html/
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    To understand adjusting a watch I have some links below reading material. Plus image from Omega's technical documentation's on what they expect. So Omega publishes the timing specifications for just about everything they make but this section is for watch is older which works nice for us as it's more generic. Even though their listing physical sizes of watches the other thing there showing is the running time. So modern watches tend to run much longer than their predecessors. Modern watches that may run 48 to longer at the end of 24 hours still have really decent amplitudes and their timekeeping is going to be much better than a watch that runs a little over 24 hours. Then interesting terminology things. Notice on the Hamilton pocket watch it says adjusted. What exactly does that mean? So on American pocket watches it may include things like temperature.. Where is modern watches there is nothing we can do about temperature.. Then the number of positions is an interesting question is what exactly does it mean? So for pocket watches the positions are slightly different than wristwatches such as normally pocket watches never run crown down. So another image from Omega showing their various positions. Note Rolex only times their watches in five positions. Then the attached PDF from ETA 6497 Showing the number positions is basically based on quality standard grade 2 positions something better three positions. So for the original question of confusing terminology of what exactly " regulated to 5 positions " We need to look at the pdf Link below labeled labeled X-D-DVH-Di-Im-N_EN. Looking at the very beginning X = mean value rate. So for X the more positions we add in the more closely they have to be if we want to meet whatever timing specifications were trying to achieve. Basically timing in positions regulated in positions just means watch was verified the various positions. Then a problem. Ever noticed how tech sheets don't really explain everything? Specifically tech sheets for watch repair? This is because it's assumed that the reader of the tech sheet has basic knowledge of watch repair. Then run down to your local bookstore how many books on how to repair an automobile versus how many books on repairing a watch? Repairing watches isn't exactly a dying art but the number of people doing it versus other things is considerably less so the amount of information available is less. Then conceivably at one time especially before timing machines this statement may have been correct " I mean is it a big secret passed down only to the next generation? " This is because whoever was adjusting the watches before timing machines existed was at the absolute top of the food chain in the watch shop because it did require full knowledge of everything and considerable skill which probably was passed down to the generations. http://www.witschi.com X-D-DVH-Di-Im-N_EN SCOPE / BEAT NUMBERS Test and measuring technology mechanical watches Witschi Training Course ETA 6497-1 Manufacturing Information.pdf
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    i got a job,when 18,in a jewelry store in my home town. the owner,turned out to be a cmw and cmc. he agreed to take me on as appretice. after spending time as a clerk, sweeping up under the lathe benchs, hand filing and theroy, disassembly, cleaning, polishing,assembly, i had spent two yrs. found an appreticeship program (for 5 yrs) sponsed by NCWA license board.I did my (ojt) in the NC mts. the owner of the store, she was 5 generation CW, her dad CMW,CMC,her mother CMW, husband CCM,both her son and daughter worked there. I lived with the family,in their home,(24 hrs.per day.I got a job at the old waltham factory.building the A-13A,8 day aircraft clock,for the goverment. I did final assembly,final timing(30 sec in 8 days) !!! a lot of balances to poise. by the way it was done with hand calipers, you vibrate the calipers with tweezers, the heavy point allways falls down. the last watmkrs guild was in waltham MA, I loved it all,a master was so much more than a profesional,at least to me.I still love fine mechinal works. thank yall,for letting me participate in your group oldwamkr
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    Hi all, My humble watch collection has only been going for a couple of years now. You will see that the value of my watches is very much towards the budget end of the market, but each one has been bought because I like the look of them, but most offer really amazing bang for buck. I will get photos uploaded at some point, but for now... Seiko SKX007, my first 'proper' watch and what started to pique my interest in what a watch really is, they are so much more than a way of knowing the time. I am not a fan of the rubber straps, so this is on a green NATO strap. I loved the look and feel of this watch, but about a year ago it lost all time keeping and needs a service, so possibly going to be sorted soon. My next watch was meant to be a 'stop gap' while I figured out what to do with my Seiko. A very cheap (I think it was under £20) Pulsar quartz diver. Only bought because of it's similarity with the Seiko. It was head only, so it was paired with a green Zulu strap. This has hardly been off my wrist. It has taken some hard knocks. I then found out about G10 watches, purely by accident. Their clean lines appealed to me. And then someone on another forum had a Fat Boy for sale. A bit more than I wanted to spend, but when I got it I was very pleased with it. Again, head only, so it was put onto the green Zulu from my Pulsar diver. But that is 20mm wide, the G10 with fixed bars was a struggle every time I swapped over, so just recently I have bought a green 18mm Zulu, so the G10 is on that permanently. I don't tend to wear the G10 very often as it is the Fat Boy version. I am tempted to get a 'normal' CWC G10, but I am going to struggle justifying that to my wife.... 'no dear, this is nothing like the other watch. This one is thinner'! So I found myself wanting a Diver style watch that was nicer than the Pulsar, but not another auto. I found my next one on ebay. Pulsar Y652-9020. I fell in love with this and bid up higher than I initially intended, but still got it for a very reasonable price. It has a diver style dial, analogue and digital using the same movement as some Breitling Pluton and Chronosport. But being branded as Pulsar meant I could afford it. The only watch I have on a metal bracelet and I think it will stay on it. Again I don't wear this very often, for fear of damaging it at work. And just recently I felt I needed another Diver style watch that was nicer than my daily Pulsar, but one I won't worry about as much as my Y652. So I picked up a Veteka. From what I found out, it was a diving equipment manufacturer that had some Monnin style watches branded up with their logo, similar to Dive Dynamics. But this has a black PVD coating on the body. The watch was sold as head only and not working, just needing a new battery. New battery didn't help and looks like there is a contact missing in the battery compartment. It has a ETA 955 day / date movement, simple dial with some amazing lume. Really my sort of watch. Naturally it needed a Zulu strap, so it is on a black one. With some advice from this forum, looks like I'll be able to get it up and running soon. And that's my modest collection for now. I am on the lookout for another budget quartz diver. And that too will probably end up on a Zulu strap.
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    Received the watch back today complete with a new bezel foc. It is a good result, but only as expected. No indication given of what may have caused the damage. First pic below shows how it was returned after the service (full quartz movement overhaul). The second, after the bezel repair...
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    Some times dirt gets in and around the inside of the button and it packs tight, this will prevent the button from sitting correctly to the case.
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    There appears to be no way of editing a post... so I'll add the other pics here.
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    Hello, here you are just starting out on a very interesting profession and I wish you all the best. Me I've had my time and I'm retired. You will never stop learning there will always be something new. This is a very friendly forum and it has an abundance of info and many on here like to help. Photos are a great help if you can provide them with any problems you have with movements. We also have a section for those interested in clocks.
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    That's a beautiful movement with some really interesting features, see more here http://watchguy.co.uk/guest-post-lemania-273000-the-moon-watch-caliber-321s-lesser-known-cousins/ If the watch is gaining time, then the problem will not be with the canon pinion, it is more likely to be an issue with the hairspring / balance. That "anti-catch" feature on the regulator is pretty unusual. You will need good magnification to see all this (x10 minimum), but make sure that the hairspring only touches between the regulator pins and doesn't touch the balance, anti-catch pins or itself anywhere else. I assume that the watch kept approximate time before you started? Sometimes we see watches with an incorrect part fitted which can cause large errors. "A" = Avance; move the lever this way to make the watch go faster "R" = Retard; move the lever this way to make the watch go slower. Sometimes you see F & S also, but the important thing to remember is that if you make the effective spring length longer then the watch will run slower. However, you will not have enough adjustment on the regulator to take out 2 hours in 12 hours
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    Good afternoon everyone! I couldn't find an introductions board so I figured the general board would be a great place to start. First off, my name is Caleb and I am from Brooklyn, NY. My first wristwatch purchase was black stainless steel Fossil from 2007. It was about $100 USD and, at the time, it was significant amount of money. I really liked the watch because it was very low-key and it looked more expensive than it really was. I had it for about two years, until I left it in someone's dorm room and never found it. That was the last time I wore a watch for a significant period of time. Fast foward to the end of 2012, five years after my first purchase. I was hitting my two year mark working as test engineer at a company in Garden City, NY that manufactured heat exchangers for military and commercial aircraft. I finally was able to afford nice clothes for the first time in my life, but I was never able to find a watch that I really enjoyed; there were too many to choose from and I could not decide which one I liked because I liked too many of them. I started doing some research (ie. a lot of Googling). It started off at this forum that spun off from another gaming forum that I frequented when I was in middle (secondary) school) and it ultimately brought me to Watchuseek. After perusing Watchuseek for a suprisingly short amount of time, I discovered the watch I wanted to purchase: an Omega Speedmaster Professional. Its history intrigued me; I worked as a test engineer in the aerospace industry, so I was familiar with all the qualification tests that the Speedmaster was subjected to back in the 1950s and 1960s - high temperature, low temperature, humidity, vibration, shock, thermal cycling, pressure cycling, etc. It was the perfect memento to end my tenure working in the aerospace industry. I haven't worn a watch in years nor did I know anything about wristwatches. I knew nothing about the brands nor did I really care for them. The last one I purchased, in retrospect, was a paltry sum of $100 USD and I had thought that was expensive. I was expecting to spend around $1000 to $1500 on my first proper wristwatch so I experienced a bit of a sticker shock when I discovered the price of the Speedmaster Professional. Long story short, I bit the financial bullet and purchased the 3573.50 (the one with the sapphire crystal and caseback) from Ace Jewelers in Amsterdam. The watch was delivered to me on December 21st 2012. For those who do not recall, that was the date when the Mayan calendar ended. An asteroid was suppose to crash into Earth, ending all of human life as we know it. The world was in a frenzy, despite the sheer impossibility of such an event happening. It was a bizarre coincidence (and the first of many) as a new owner of a Speedmaster Professional. A few days later, I was attending my friend's Christmas Party. At one point of the party, I had noticed that the watch had stopped. I wounded it up all the way and it starting going. A few days after that, I was attending another friend's New Years Party. At the stroke of midnight, I had checked my watch and noticed that it had stopped dead. There was something clearly wrong. The next few months became an ordeal. I had brought my watch to the Omega Boutique in New York, twice. I had asked them to wear the watch and they will immediately find that there is a problem, but I am assuming they did not listen to my recommendation. They had my watch for nearly two months, both times they failed to correct the problem, let alone replicate the problem. To add insult to injury, as they were handing the watch to me one final time, the only solution they offered was that I must have been winding it incorrectly. Seriously, the people in the Omega Boutique sat me down for 15 minutes to teach me how to wind a brand new watch. Finally, I had shipped it back to Ace Jewelers in Amsterdam. They initially failed to replicate the problem (I had to tell them to wear the watch and they soon discovered that there is something clearly wrong with it), but ultimately shipped it to Omega, had the problem corrected, and then shipped it back to me. It has been nearly two years since then and the watch is still going, although it jumps ahead a few minutes after a few weeks. As a result of this ordeal, I became incredibly disinterested in Omega as a brand, but as an upside, I became incredibly interested in mechanical wristwatch movements; one could say this was the silver lining to that mess. I didn't know where to start so I started doing research on my troublesome watch. I purchased this book by B. Humbert, The Chronograph - Its Mechanism and Repair. I have tried to look over it extensively. It is a great book, but it is like attempting to read a car repair manual for fun. I managed to get a hold of Chicago Watchmaking School's Watchmaking Guide and I am starting to read it. Again, it is like reading a car repair manual for fun. I'll glance through them every now and then, but as of now, they are not capturing my attention. Then I discovered Mark Lovick's YouTube videos. I have only one word to describe them: Fantastic. Seriously, I watch them before I head to bed at night. I am at that stage in between research and actually purchasing a movement to tinker around with. The first step I plan on taking is purchasing the basic tools and a scrap pocketwatch movement for disassembly and reassembly; I'll be following the Chicago Watchmaking School's Watchmaking Guide as it seems to be very structured. I would love to hear other people's input, their history, how they got involved in watchmaking, where they are currently, and where they plan on going. I look foward to speaking with all of you!
  35. 3 likes
    Hi Balidey, I'm new to the forum and saw this post. Look out for the G10 bug! I picked up my first G10 and within a year had CWC 1980 and 82 fat boys, an 82 and 84 precista (my fave) and then WENT A BIT MAD with the mid size fatboys and 83 and 84 and the slimmer 85, 87, 89, 90, 91, the less common 0555 marine 1995, then 97, 98, 99, a pulsar 99 short hand and then stopped! I enjoy working on them and bringing them back to their original condition. Now have sold most cos I've only 1 wrist, and kept the 80 CWC fatboy, it is in superb condition, the 84 precista, and have spent over a year souring parts - the split stem mainly - restoring a CWC W10. The rarer navigator dial came up cheap, a date window being very handy, not an issued watch but looks nice too. I think that's enough! An older photo of some below! Cheers.....
  36. 3 likes
    took the boss out today, second time in a year, trying to keep the original enamel, well, original! You hardly see this Elgin Direct Reading from 1957 with the crest not buffed off the face and you might see one with the red enamel maybe once a year but still having the blue enamel is a rare event!
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    I have to agree with everyone else. They look good to me. Panerai hands can be kind of tough because there aren't a lot of reference markers. Add the fact that production accuracy (of the dial or movement) may not be a high priority and you have a perfect storm. It may not be a good business practice, but If if were me and the customer is that picky I would send the watch back free of charge and not accept anymore work from them. You just can't please some people and it sounds like you have bent over backwards trying to do so.
  38. 3 likes
    At six o'clock its bang on too. Using the dial printing as a horizontal rule, with the hands set at six o'clock, I have four perfect right angles (45 degrees reference points). Agree with the slack on some movements, this movement is an Asian 7750 and it does indeed have quite a bit of play. Some people with these reps have far more unreal expectations of them than any of my genuine watch brand customers.
  39. 3 likes
    Rolex, Cartier, Omega and Breitling all do courses, you need to do coar$e for each brand before they will supply you parts. Depending on your level of ability and presuming your Quality of work is to their standard they can accredit you to different levels. Rolex have an accreditation to be able to 1) dial exchanges and battery and reseals. 2) The above and service all watch's apart from sports models. 3) The above, including sports models apart from complicated models like the Daytona and Yahtmaster 2. There is also a Daytona coar$e you can go on once all the above accreditations are achieved. Cartier have an accreditation but is very limited, it basically shows you how to Refurb a case and do movement exchanges, once accredited you can only get seals and case parts and then send the movement in for exchange, they are in the process of introducing a coar$e in Switzerland for people that have the current movement exchange accreditation which I think will mean they can actually get movement parts once it's done. Omega do a one week accreditation coar$e which means you can get all parts including parts for the co axial watch's. This automatically gives you access to Rado, Longines and Tissot parts but only if you purchase the brand specific tools for each brand. Breitling also do an accreditation but again depends on your ability, Some people can only do Battery and Reseals, some people can only access Quartz and basic automatic parts and the full accreditation means you can do chronographs, nobody can get parts the the emergency watch. All of these accreditations are subject to a workshop inspection that meets certain criteria for each brand. A lot of the main big equipment can be used for multiple brands like polishing machines, timing machines(apart for co axial), cleaning machine, ultrasonic, dryer, ect, but all brands insist on lots of specialist case tools, movement holders and hand tools, not to mention oils, polishing compounds, etc, which are all very expensive and are mostly only available from them. Your workshop must be up to their spec and if you don't buy the tools they won't supply you parts even if you have past the course.
  40. 3 likes
    That's where you plug it into a 240volt supply. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  41. 3 likes
    This is me playing Santana on my aluminum chromed guitar Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
  42. 3 likes
    I am the one on the left. The guy on the right is my friend Jim. The guitar I am holding is a Rhyne acoustic steel string. I worked with Jay Rhyne from 1971 to 1977 building guitars and designing the machinery we used to make the guitar parts. Jay died a few years ago after a long illness and these guitars are quite rare. david
  43. 3 likes
    I'm afraid that my electrode-plating projects have to wait a little as I just couldn't resist a second attempt on a Landeron 48. This is what I just bought. According to the eBay sellers description it is a none runner, balance fine and functions do work. My plan is to describe and picture the journey I will have with this movement. Perhaps find a nice case and give it wrist time again ........ wouldn't that be something?? I still have the winding stem+crown of the first Landeron 48. It will be my first chronograph if succeeded. Needless to say, I could use all the help I can get ! Kitchen sink and all the rest of it Here are the first sellers pictures; As from tomorrow I'll be standing on the corner of the street, awaiting the postman Any first thoughts ?
  44. 3 likes
    My Dad repaired watches for half a century and played lead guitar and mandolin on weekends for just as long. He made both look easy... My sisters and I sometimes helped him pack up his instruments after a gig. One time, my sister put his Les Paul behind the car... he thought she'd put it in the trunk (boot) and he backed over it. Yikes!!! He bought another guitar and gave the broken guitar to his friend, who rebuilt it and played it for years. By some miracle my sister is still alive.
  45. 3 likes
    I also combine the two been playing since i was about 12 but I,m now learing how to play again after my stroke last year it is smashing therapy tho gets your brain working again. luckily it was on the right side so my fingering hand wasnt affected but strumming sometimes is a pain but the pickings ok for lead breaks sort of lost the use of my wrist.
  46. 3 likes
    I think I've located the crown & stem that you need. Since yours is a UK model, I don't have an exact reference, but I believe that I have found its American cousin, 26760. As far as I can tell the cases are the same. The Timex part number is 025-060054 The crown and stem can be found in the material system 401/1 TX1K, listed as compartment 10. I've attached some pictures, and if you want it just send me a PM and I'll mail one off to you.
  47. 3 likes
    Last night whilst reassembling a Felsa 1560 I fired the Return Bar Spring from the keyless work across the room, 45 minutes of searching failed to find it. I'm now about to spend £5.81 plus £2.88 postage to get another one from Cousins. It was bound to happen to me sooner or later, just hope it doesn't happen too often.
  48. 3 likes
    For your entertainment, watch disassembly in 45 seconds Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  49. 3 likes
    I was able to pick up this Hamilton Electric Meteor today for the low price of an arm and a leg . I scratched that itch with the other arm . I am hoping for the best , but I am pretty sure it's all original , including the bracelet . I don't know which movement is installed ,...the 500 or the 505 . I'm going to have to recuperate and hold off on any sizable purchases for a bit . The sellers remarks on the description,,,," Vintage Hamilton Electric Asymmetrical Mid Century Modern Watch 10K Gold Filled. Men's watch. Good vintage condition. Minor scratches & scuffs. Rub marks on back. See pictures. Currently does not keep time. May just need new battery. Hands can be moved with side button. Please feel free to ask questions. This watch belonged to my husband's grandfather. I am not a dealer. "... I'm using the sellers pics to show it........
  50. 3 likes
    I would stay away from steam because of the heat, more than because of the water. Watch parts are not meant to be exposed to intense heat, I'm not sure how the different metals will react. Some of them will expand more than others, resulting in parts that end up out of alignment. If you're on a budget, use lighter fluid (and a small paint brush for tough dirt) to clean the parts, and then 99% alcohol to rinse and remove any moisture (except for balance wheel and pallet fork). We're talking a $20 investment that will last you a decent time.