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  1. 13 likes
    I spent the day literally watching paint dry. I was using black lacquer to fill in the engraving on a pocket watch case to make it stand out. I will send pictures when it is finished. In the mean time I was looking for screwdriver sharpening stone holders on the net. The sticker shock was amazing. So i said to myself, "Self" your only watching paint dry, make your own, you have a sharpening stone and some wood. So I made this from scrap wood while watching paint dry. I'm happy with it & it cost nothing. It is perhaps not as pretty as Bergeon but they have enough money.
  2. 12 likes
    So it's been a few months since I posted here...but I've been regularly checking in. Hi Mark and Geo! So as a few of you know, I have a hobby of building watches. The one thing I hated was relying on some of the very few companies that actually print dials. Here is the USA there are only a handful that do this type of work! I was lucky enough to find an antique dial printing machine on eBay. It was just a vessel to move the dial from printing plate to paint application. I found a willing company to "Fill in the Blanks!" I won't name them here because I don't want to seem like I'm Selling this company! Anyway, they were a very big help when it came to me having questions. The sales, engineering and billing staff were first rate! They helped me pick the proper printing pads, helping me design and then produce my printing plates and then help me choose the proper ink and also recommended how to prepare the inks, pads and thinners to get the best results! So, here I am....First try at printing a dial.... I designed the dial myself using a free online software. The dial is printed in 3 stages. The first step was printing the hour chapter. Then, the second step was to print the sub seconds chapter. Lastly, I printed the name of the manufacturer that I will be using for this build. This was more of a proof of concept to me...Now, I can't wait to try new designs and styles! And, Now I have more control of what I build! That's very important to me...Cheers!
  3. 12 likes
    Here we go with part 2. Now it's easy to note, that I'm not a professional as the cleaning equipment is only... ehm... semi-professional. Special treatment for the balance and the pallet fork. The equipment for oiling and grease. Inserting the new mainspring. Reassembling the train bridge. Surprise: Much easier than on other watches, the parts fall into correct positions by themselves. Nice. Barrel bridge and ratchet system. The keyless works. Assembling and oiling the Pallet fork. The return of the balance. A drop of oil for the balance and escape wheel stones. Winding up and...it runs! Oops, some adjustment needed. Better. Reassembling the automatic device. Inserting the screws for movement and dial. Time for the cannon pinion and the hour wheel. Bringing back dial and hands (oh, I love those Maxi dials). Back in the case... ...and completed with the automatic device. Some grease for the gasket. Got it. It's called a wrist watch, so it's for the wrist not for the safe.
  4. 12 likes
    This is a bit of a departure for me as I usually like to play with stuff a little more vintage and a little more Swiss. That being said I have done a few vintage Russians in the past and this is a watch that I had been curious about for some time. I picked this one up at a car boot sale last summer for just £3 in a less than wonderful state. As you can see, the seconds hand was off and it was described a not running. It turned out that it did run, just not too well and the hour and minute hands didn't move. Canon pinion anyone? First impression with the back off is pretty encouraging. Still looking good with the rotor off. This is a 31 jewel movement, 10 of the jewels are inside those reverser wheels. Somewhat minimalist under the dial. With the calendar wheel retaining plate off you can access the motion works, the calendar works, and the keyless works. Flipped back over and with the auto-wind bridge out of the way. This is an indirect driven centre seconds hand which has a tension spring to hold the seconds hand pinion in place. This has to be supported when installing the seconds hand otherwise the hand simply pushes the pinion against the spring and won't install. Balance cock removed with the shim that the soviets are so fond of for adjusting end shake. Hair spring is in good shape. With the train and barrel bridges out of the way the going train is revealed in all its glory. Flipped over again to strip out the bottom plate and a problem comes to light. There is some damage to the minute wheel (marked in red ink). Maybe the canon pinion isn't the problem after all? In close up you can see the damaged minute wheel tooth. This I didn't think would be a problem, just replace it..... I thought. Not so easy as it turned out as I couldn't find anyone that could supply a new wheel, and a donor movement proved elusive unless I wanted to spend a fortune on a complete, working watch, which I didn't, so I had to wait for eBay to come up with a spares or repair victim at the right price, which it eventually did. The stripped out main plate with the balance and cock, minus jewels, ready for the cleaning machine. The bottom plate back together again after a good wash cycle in the Elma. At this point I did check the canon pinion anyway and it was as well that I did. There was virtually no transfer of power through to the hands at all so a suitable adjustment was made and a tighter fit achieved. Back in the case and ticking like a champ. The rotor and massive case back gasket back in place. And a much improved trace on the timer. This is with the original mainspring which turned out to be in very good shape requiring just a clean and relube. The trace isn't perfect by any means, but compared with other Russian watches that I have played with (and with it's starting trace), it's pretty good. There is still a hint of a periodic variation that I may investigate at some point but for now I shall just wear it and enjoy it. And here it is on the wrist after a bit of a cosmetic brush up. These are available with many different dial designs, apparently this one is referred to as a "SCUBA Dude". I have worn it for two days now and it has gained about 5 seconds a day so there is a little fine tuning to do to get it right "on the wrist". All in all I'm very pleased with this one. I had been curious about the Amphibia for some time having read a couple of articles detailing its history and design. It also has quite a large following of avid enthusiasts who rate it for both value and robustness. On the value front I can't complain with this one as the total cost to me was just £11 (including the donor). As for ruggedness only time will tell, but the performance so far is very impressive.
  5. 10 likes
    Influenced by Lawson's post 'Carl Zeiss - Eye Mag Pro' I bought a cheaper 6x 350mm pair of Galilean binoculars from China. These are intended for dental use but any dentist trying to use a 6x magnification mutst have control of the head position far better than I can manage. The viewed object was wobbling by about 50% of the 45 mm field of view. The optical quality is excellent and so I have turned them into a binocular microscope using a heavy duty flexible support with standard end pieces as sold for microphones. Here in the bench mode with a Benson Aquatite movement - ample working distance. The only work that was needed is shown: a support that fits firmly into the mike clip and a pair of eye cups with adaptor rings to match the eyepieces of the binoculars. Here mounted on my lathe base-board for some micro-drilling.
  6. 9 likes
  7. 8 likes
    Since I joined this forum I've moved half a dozen times. Each time I have to fit what I have to work on watches and whatever little space that's available. This time I'm in the smallest place yet (460sqft.) but have the perfect little niche in the corner for all of my watch making tools, supplies, books, Etc. All that and a South facing window plus, I can keep an eye on my beloved car that sits right in front of that window
  8. 8 likes
    All links and content removed. We take a dim view here of members who sign up with a sole agenda for promoting their wares, much much better to become an established and respected member of the community by contributing in a meaningful way like everybody else does
  9. 7 likes
    it's the flight rated configuration because I'm a huge fan of spaceflight.
  10. 7 likes
    I try and answer as many as I can with the knowledge I have. However some questions I don't because I did not have the knowledge and do not always have time to do the necessary research. Some questions are repeated such as "what lubricants should I use" "what is the best starter kit" etc but the answers to these can be found by simply using the search bar. It is annoying sometimes when answering a question but no feedback is given whether the answer helped.
  11. 7 likes
    Had an interview today and wore this for luck. I had this overhauled over the Summer and it is a handsome piece indeed. Month, day, weekday are set..the moon phase...maybe I can count the clicks? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
  12. 6 likes
    Here a little walkthrough the servicing of my Rolex 5513, calibre 1520. Sorry for the funny english, I'm no native speaker. I'm not a professional watchmaker, this is only amateur-work. I start by opening the case, taking off the automatic device and disassemble it. Now I remove the movement and take off hands and dial. Removing the cannon pinion. Now it's time for the balance and the pallet fork. Continuing disassembling with ratchet and train wheels. Next one is the barrel bridge. I decided to use a new mainspring. Now it's time for the keyless works. On the other side of the movement the spring for stopping the balance. Removing the screws for the movement and the dial. And reassemble the balance for protection reasons. Ok, everything taken apart, ready for cleaning. Best regards Erik
  13. 5 likes
    Hello, I have this Omega watch with a stained dial. It's not the kind of "patina" I find particularly appealing so I wanted to see if I could clean it up with the usual soapy water but nothing happened... Then, by chance, I bought the exact same Omega dial for a couple of dollars at a flea market, with the same kind of discoloration (I also scored another omega (354 bumper) in the process, I'll clean it up and give it to my dad). So it was time to experiment !!!! Before picture : All 3 methods were applied with a Q-tip (cotton swab), gently rubbing the cleaning solution on the dial, and rinsed VERY WELL using distilled water. First up : more soapy water, with different soap concentrations... no change. Second : lemon juice diluted in water, increasing the lemon juice concentration slowly... no change Last : Windex (ammonia based window cleaner) MIRACLE !!!! It took about 30 minutes of work to get this result, doing one little portions of the dial at a time. I chickened out around the writing on the dial, so it doesn't look as good as other places. I didn't want to push my luck. After picture : Share any method you've used and before/after pictures.
  14. 5 likes
    Hello all just wanted to share my latest project watches. The first is a vintage Arnex skeleton movement in a pilot watch case with a white skeleton dial. Waiting to get some chocolate brown ostrich leg straps to finish it. For my second project watch I wanted to make a custom pocket watch. This project was the most time consuming as of yet. The movement needed a new balance staff and whoever poised this one before I left quite a lot of issues. I think I spent about 14 hours getting it poised. I thought I would never finish it but one day it was finally perfect. Anyway, here it is a 992b pocket watch movement in a keystone base metal case and fancy number dial: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. 5 likes
    I've always loved watches and always wanted to collect them. Knowing That most of the watches I'm drawn too are well out of my reach, I never started collecting. I'd wear what ever Quartz someone might gift to me and once it was beat to hell I'd just toss it. At, 45 I decided to try and rebuild my first watch, another long time bucket list item. That was my 1968 Bulova Oceanographer that I picked up at an estate sale for $10 purely by chance. After that one I had intentions of finding, fixing, and selling vintage watches. That was back in January. I've run into a slight twist in the plan though. After fixing and wearing for a day or two, I can't bring myself to sell them. With that said, I have now become a collector. Here is my modest collection that I have gotten much enjoyment from. 1968 Bulova Oceanographer 1976 Bulova Accutron 1975 Timex Automatic Early 90's Zarja 3105 Early to mid 89's Vostok Amphibian Vostok Kommandirski (unknown age) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 5 likes
    About a week back I picked up this Sturmanskie after following @Endeavor and @GeorgeClarkson through the service of their Soviet chronographs. The seller stated the watch dated from 1988 and included the original receipt and box. Unfortunately, I cannot read Cyrillic so I was forced to take the seller at his word; regardless of it's origin though, the watch is a beautiful specimen and I'm happy to have it. Unfortunately I was unable to remove the caseback until today. I took Roland's advice and used a jeweler's hammer and a sharp razor to work my way around the caseback slowly creating enough of a gap for a case knife to exploit. It was a nerve-wracking experience! In the end, the caseback came away with no damage to the watch. I'm always very anxious to gaze upon a new chronograph movement- it's certainly geeky but I'm not afraid to admit it. It looks like I'm not the first to open this case though. Many screws have marks on them indicating they've been removed at some point in the past and replaced. I believed this movement to be 31659, but alas, there is no hacking mechanism that I can see. Over all the movement is in good shape and appears complete. It will need a proper cleaning before it's ready to wear and I'll be sure to post about it when I have the chance.
  17. 5 likes
    Finally a slow-motion video of the balance working I took during the work.
  18. 4 likes
    I have not posted in a while. I'm still loving this new hobby! Just acquired a timegrapher...I just love the ticking noise. Just picked up a watch and threw it in to see it work...now to learn.
  19. 4 likes
    Last night whilst reassembling a Felsa 1560 I fired the Return Bar Spring from the keyless work across the room, 45 minutes of searching failed to find it. I'm now about to spend £5.81 plus £2.88 postage to get another one from Cousins. It was bound to happen to me sooner or later, just hope it doesn't happen too often.
  20. 4 likes
    Put down your hammers and back away....Just kidding . Some members have stated thar's how they service Timex Watches . I picked up this Timex Electronic , back-set , front loader at the swap meet for $8 . It wasn't running and had an AG10 battery still installed , but with no visible damage to the movement . This one has the M87 movement with the date . This is a late 60's model called " The Blue Nebula " with a West German movement that was produced by the Laco watch company that Timex acquired when they bought Durowe-Laco at the end of 1958 to get into the electronic watch arena ..... http://electric-watches.co.uk/makers/laco/ I got home from the swap meet , opened the watch up and installed a new battery . The watch would only tun for a minute or less . I did some reading on this movement and started to disassemble it for a service . If you have ever tried to service a Timex you know why the hammers are used . I got as far as taking off the magnet and then the balance and then a voice from above said , " don't do it . Don't go any further "...so I didn't . What I did do was to clean and tighten any electrical contacts that I could reach , and put a light oil on any jewels and bushing in reach and assembled the watch again . At that point it would tun for an hour or two , and stop . I would shake it and get another couple of hour worth of run time . I left the watch under a light bulb for a while and it ran for approx. 24 hours . Back to the light bulb treatment that I may patent and the watch has been running for 5 days now and actually keeping very accurate time .....Honest . I had a watchband in my stash but have had to file some areas where the lug area of the watch was binding . I still have to smooth and buff those areas so it has a better finish .
  21. 4 likes
    Hi everyone, Previously in one of my other posts I mentioned I had made my own video camera for watch repairs. Well, I used it for the first time a few days ago just to get used to it and I'm sort of happy with the results. I've still got to tweak the sensor a bit, it needs a clean. My first ever video is without voice over, but as I get used to doing videos I'll add voice overs as well. The working distance from the lens to the bench was 45cm. I've got to make a decent daylight LED lamp which will improve the depth of field and focus. This video was made using ordinary warm LED room lighting. Anyway, here's a link to the Video, I hope you like it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epkBJenwxzA And here's a snapshot taken towards the end of the video.
  22. 4 likes
    Hi guys! It's been a long time since I've posted here.... I plan on checking in a little more often.. Here's my latest creation that I'm wearing today. I designed the dial after a current Hamilton Khaki model... I posted a picture of the printing plate too!
  23. 4 likes
    Hi Guys.. Just received this Favre-Leuba Datic. It has an FL1188 movement which is basically the (much maligned) AS1687 in drag. While not as unique as the Favre-leuba's in house Cal.253. It has been used in some higher end watches like Girard-Perregaux and Zodiac. Some shun this movement because of its offset canon pinion but generally its not so bad. It's only if you need a replacement parts that it gets messy. The plating on the plates are the same as on the Cal.253 though. At least FL was consistent! Anyway, here it is...dial has 'patina'. IMO patina is overrated but at least its here it's even. The caseback is pretty.. The movement..pretty messy huh? I was reminded of the tea trick on another thread. I will try this when I tear this one down. Nice thing about this movement (and other 1687s) is that it has a geared regulator, allowing better, more precise adjustments. A button, nowadays more commonly known as a crown. Nothing remarkable as it's a generic replacement but I will see if I have a genuine (used) FL one which I can fit. I don't usually pay much attention to the inner case back but something caught my eye. It was only some dirt which came off when I scraped at it with my tweezer. This watch will be getting a service soon as it's pretty dirty inside. There's been several posts about the as1687 so I won't be posting about the rebuild unless I come across something unusual. Anyway here's a picture of the dial side. I think it's one of the better designs from the 50s. The date snaps over instantly . Just like Rolex! And it's nice to see a jeweled barrel arbor! Thanks for reading! Anilv
  24. 4 likes
    Omega with water based top coat - soaked in destilled water with a few drops Fairy - brushed lightly every couple of minutes. Before After
  25. 4 likes
    took the boss out today, second time in a year, trying to keep the original enamel, well, original! You hardly see this Elgin Direct Reading from 1957 with the crest not buffed off the face and you might see one with the red enamel maybe once a year but still having the blue enamel is a rare event!
  26. 4 likes
    Welcome to the Club! Did you try the vacuum approach? - vacuum the carpet then go through the dust bag? Magnet approach? - trail a magnet on a string over the area? Or did you fall on your knees, cursing creation? - that sometimes helps!
  27. 4 likes
    And finally experimented the setup and settings for the perfect pattern
  28. 4 likes
    Today I went with a what I consider to be a nice 1965 Omega Seamaster Cosmic, I have always particularly liked this watch.
  29. 3 likes
    I love mechanical things, not least the watches, clocks and other mechanical hardware. To be able to repair watches have been a wish in a really long time. Unfortunately I have not had a real place to practice and must recognize that doing it in the kitchen just cannot be reconciled with the family. That is why I am now going to remodel our 70 's garage into a workshop and hobby room for joy for me and the rest of the family. It is anyway too small for a modern car. The garage is at about 6.8 x 3 m. and there for approx. 20 square meters. The redevelopment will be extensive as i have to make heating and floor heating window and a small kitchenette. I am now almost finished clearing out the garage so that the work can begin. I will put up some pictures every now and then as the project progresses!
  30. 3 likes
    Lord Elgin Electronic 1962 and my other one for the week, a very very rarely seen White Lord Elgin Clubman
  31. 3 likes
    Hello everyone!... This is my first post and I am new to this forum and watch repair. I am taken by all the beautiful watches and collections I see here, very impressive. This is my first project "Elgin Sportsman 17 Jewels" and I don't know the movement (823?) any help or input is appreciated! For $8.00 off ebay and a little lubrication I got this baby running...best feeling ever.
  32. 3 likes
    How's everyone doing? Great I hope. Have some time to post a watch that I've been working on. I've learned from experience that the cheaper the watch, the more difficult it is to work on. Here is something from the 70's that represents well that kooky period. The watch measure 40mm x 38mm. The power comes from a one-jewel Bettlach 8800 with a jump hour mechanism on the dial side. An example of what makes this watch a nightmare to work on? For starters, you have to press down hard--and I mean with your body weight--on the stem release button to get it to release. The movement has what I think is a dust cover(why?), which when placed incorrectly causes the balance wheel to rub and stop--but only intermittently so that you go crazy trying to figure out what's happening... Its not me, its the WATCH!! J
  33. 3 likes
    Everyone starts with that first post, some will get the answer they need and we'll never hear from them again. Others will get the 'bug' and develop their knowledge and skills. These guys in turn will be sharing their skills. My take is, it is impossible to separate the wheat from the chaff. The supply of 'affordable' watch repairers is an ever dwindling number. The people who are studying in watch schools will not be looking at servicing Seikos etc at a price the regular watch collector can afford. Less people are being 'apprenticed' to a watch-maker to learn the skills. Watch repair is not a black art. All that is needed is (a) bit of mechanical aptitude, (b) patience and (c) someone to point you in the right direction. So if someone has (a) and (b).... this forum (and Mark's tutorials) can provide the (c). but we won't know from the initial post.. Anilv
  34. 3 likes
    Hi Johnnie, I love this movement.. when you get it working you'll see that it winds super smooth and it's pretty accurate too! Does the balance swing freely? Could be it had a 'jolt' and the impulse pin came out of the fork. If this was the case the balance would stop on one side like it hit a brick wall. Its a simple enough movement. I usually keep the barrels separate. I seem to remember one being slightly different but its been a while since I worked on one. Anyway, even if they're identical its good practice to re-install them where they came from as they would have worn together. One peculiarity on this movement is how FL fixed the end of the hairspring, it is screwed to the underside of the balance bridge. To adjust the beat you have to remove the balance + bridge, loosen the holding screw (enough so there's still a bit of friction), install balance + bridge, set the beat-rate by moving the visible end of the hairspring end (you can just see a metal piece with a hole below the bridge above the balance). Remove the balance+bridge, tighten the screw fixing the hairspring end. reassemble. The beauty of this arrangement is that it will not move if the watch is dropped. Anilv
  35. 3 likes
    An update.... Got a bar of shellac (will last a million years...) and started all over with the original pallet fork. First try ended just as the new replacement; no proper release of the escapement. Second try; pushed the stone in a fraction (at least I think so, it's not easy to tell...). Amazingly enough the movement kick starts and runs with a very decent amplitude and a (not so good, but something I can live with for now) beat error of 3,5 ms. Cool... there's hope for the persistent! Thanks for the advice to stay off the banking pins :-) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  36. 3 likes
    It gets me mad too Roger, some folk are just plain ignorant. I'll better keep my preferred solution to myself!
  37. 3 likes
    Big up to mark for this afternoon's YouTube livestream! Spot on mate! Really good afternoon's viewing! Let's have some more mate! If you didn't watch it today get on to his YouTube watchmakers channel & enjoy! Many thanks again mark! [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  38. 3 likes
    Just finished assembling my test having cleaned it all yesterday. Many of the jewels were in bad shape and I suspect I haven't exactly improved them. It doesn't run of course... Still, I thought that the balance would be the biggest problem as the sight of a hairspring gives me a nasty feeling, but that's fine. It's just the entire train that seems locked solid. Many hours spent and I hope not wasted. It'll be a while before I attempt to clean something of value. I have at least a hundred of these in variously bad condition so it'll be a while before I run out of cadavers to dissect. Roy
  39. 3 likes
    Today's watch! Not my creation but I've always wanted one..I just picked this one up off eBay for $80. Its from 1995 and its a Seiko Diver model 7002-700a. It has di directional automatic winding, but without manual wind or hack. Popular with "modders" today, you can buy all different kinds of dials, hands and bezels to totally change the look of the watch. I think that's awesome! Whatever brings more people into watch collecting I'm pretty much for... speaking of which, though this looks pretty much stock, it has a new dial, chapter ring and bezels insert. It was "serviced" as well...so the listing said. But when I received it, it was running about 3 minutes fast a day.... Oh well, I regulated it and now it's running very accurate now... This is kind of my "beater" watch. I'll wear this if I'm doing work and the house or in the car. Great watch!
  40. 3 likes
    I've been looking for one of these for a very long time. I've just got my hands on a Seiko Macchina Sportiva from the 1990's, but this one is quite rare. It's the 7T32-6L20 Black ION with its original black rubber strap. I've given it a full service but need to realign the date ring, that's not a problem. But what is a problem is the case back. There's video I've made to show it off a bit. The back on these was a silicone based black finish and this had deteriorated over time. Again, not too much of a problem, I'll completely strip back the back plate to bare metal and reapply a new decal to original spec.
  41. 3 likes
    So I bought this watch off an auction site for $15. The reason I bought it was the description said that it was 36 millimeters in diameter. I like the size of that watch and was interested in this watch because of the name as well, Verdad. I did a little research and could not find anything other than a Spanish translation which Loosely means truth. I'm assuming that this was either a jewelry house or a custom order. When I received the watch the MST 352 Roamer movement was very dirty on the bridge side. Once I removed the dial I found the keyless works rusted beyond repair. I found a very nice replacement MST 352 movement on the bay and installed it instead. I would have much rather kept the original movement but the previous or original owner had engraved His Name Across the bridges! Ugh!. The dial was corroded and Beyond cleaning so I decided to refinish the dial myself. I stripped the dial down to Bare brass and hand Silvered it as is done with clock dial. I also created a new printing plate in the Bauhaus Style and printed the dial. All in all I think it turned out pretty good!
  42. 3 likes
    Today, my 1937 Longines pocket watch conversion. 15 jewels in a 43mm case. Hand Silvered dial designed after a picture of a vintage Longines that I really like.
  43. 3 likes
    Yes it is possible to buy and repair watches for a profit, but it is a learning curve and you will end up with loads of unknown movements and bits and bobs, it will be time consuming and probably won't come close to paying your bills but will buy you few pints each week if you make enough profit. As for buying parts there are your usual material houses but sometimes I end up popping into my local smith and buying a part from him as it saves on postage, or I'll have to scour ebay etc for another watch of the calibre to get the required part to fix the first watch. It can be a mine field but also a good classroom for learning repairs, go ahead and have some fun, seikos are always plentiful but for a non runner (rusty) diver you will expect to pay approx £30 for a non runner then factor in a new aftermarket set of hands from the USA only about £8 but then put another £10 on for postage each extra part you buy you will need to put a mark up on to cover it's cost and postage and so it goes on, until you then factor in your hourly rate, for and full renovation if all parts are on your bench factor a whole day for the job going on into the evening so say a good 10 hours of solid work if all goes to plan. I'm not trying to put you off im just giving you the knowledge I have gained so far, you will eventually have a stock of spares and won't have such along turnaround time for each piece, and try to stay focused on one brand of watch like seiko, or be like me along nd buy loads of random stuff and then be stuck with it haha, enjoy and have fun along end good luck mare
  44. 3 likes
    I'm Electronics Engineer by profession--Only amateur Horologist..... Similar circuit to the Tuning-Fork movements, very little difference... Test both sections of the coil first make sure its properly OK, If so, Change the cylindrical cap and resistor, and confirm transistor is OK. Nothing much else can go wrong with 'em... Resistor is usually 2M2 and cap is 0.22uF Expect coil resistance of around 1-2K for f/b and 6-12K drive at a guess....
  45. 3 likes
    I had a similar experience with a customer who kept magnetising her watch. I found that she had a magnetic bracelet and was wearing it on the same wrist as the watch. It took a few weeks before I resolved this issue. The other issue to be aware of is how the customer wears the watch. Some wear the watch with the crown facing away from the hand some even wear it on the reverse side of the wrist. This knowledge is useful when regulating the watch i.e. getting the best setting for how they will use/wear the watch.
  46. 3 likes
    Hi all. So as a 40th present from my dad i was given a voucher for a watch. I was torn between the blue sunburst dial or the green bezel. I think i made the right choice. One reason for the choice was the movement. Based on the ETA 2824 with my limited knowledge a really solid movement. See for your self James. Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
  47. 3 likes
    Bulova Royal Clipper.... I have recently started to gather some watches in the Bulova " Clipper " series . These watches are very affordable and have a Classic look in both round and rectangle shapes . I really am not sure how many different clippers there are because I am seeing a different clipper name all the time such as Jet Clipper , American , Sun , Sea , Golden , Midnight , Ocean , etc............ From what I gather from ongoing research , the Clippers are 17 jewel , but none have a clipper designation on the dial . This model is called the Royal Clipper and is identifiable by the contrasting quadrant shades . I picked it up on the bay for a small price and it was advertised as having been cleaned and serviced , the crystal refinished , and a new strap . I knew that the dial looked like it had the measles . When I got it I had to clean up an excess of lube on the movement , replace the cracked crystal , replace the paper thin cheap strap , and lume the hands because the lume was practically not there . The case back was over polished and showed all the imperfections also . I also took a chance on cleaning up the dial . I took the liberty of adding a couple of pics from the internet to show what the dial looks like.... And the watch.... Yeah , I cheated and hi-lighted the dial . You couldn't see the quadrants very well ,....and it looks better in person ,..honest . You can't lie to the camera .
  48. 3 likes
    And now for something completely different - We got this gem for our son for Christmas, and he loves it. Unfortunately, he reported a problem with it, which I just diagnosed to a missing tooth on the hour wheel - resulting in Mr. Cleese going lame around 8:00. And no, it's not a product of the Ministry of Silly Watches... actually it comes from the Unemployed Philosophers' Guild. Note the "For best results use other side" notation on the case back. The watch uses a pretty basic Miyota movement, so here we go searching for a replacement. Cheers, Gryf
  49. 3 likes
    Its a good rule to follow, and one that eliminates many problems related to potential conflicting membership interests--which is primarily watch repair. JC
  50. 3 likes
    Nice watch if a little on the large side for my taste. I do have another problem with it too. A mysterious screw in the middle of the back with a label that says "do not unscrew" would be too much for me to resist. It's like having a big red button that says "do not press"... you just have to to see what happens!!