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  1. Past hour
  2. Or the HS is touching the balance cock.
  3. Received finally the Christmas present from my brother-in-law... a set of pocket watch chains They are chinese but surprisingly all ok. So we have a nice weather here in Hungary and brought my Roskopf along with my kids to the playground
  4. Could you describe this overbanking?
  5. Today
  6. SORRY, seiko "speed timer" with original braclet. vinn
  7. i was told that is "over banking'.
  8. it is so. i have a speed master with the original bracelet. check it out. you are right about the watch case, not the bracelet. vinn
  9. Just a quick point. A Dremel has no where near enough torque. You need a variable speed bench grinder with the proper polishing and buffing wheels. This is the best tutorial out there for restoring SS watch cases. Sent from my Honor 5c
  10. seller sent me 7 and 28 diamond pastes instead of 5 and 20 that i ordered. when inquiring to seller, seller responds that "they are similar" should i just go with the 7 and 28, or should i demand the 5 and 20 sent?
  11. Brilliant thank you.
  12. That is common that that gear falls out? Happens when you removes the stem and tilt the movement? Also easy to put back again. So no problem there? If nothing else isn't wrong under there? Sounds like it could be though as the small screws where loose? Someone tried to do something with it? Maybe put the setting lever back by taking of the winding bridge? Instead of removing the dial? Running fast is probably dirty hairspring sticking together ? Sounds like it needs a service?
  13. Wow, that was quite an involved job. Well done. Can you tell us any more about how you determined that the pallet staff was bent? Did you manually observe the locking/unlocking of the lever or did you just have an inkling that the pallets were suspect? Roddy
  14. longines 6922 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Longines_6922
  15. Excellent walkthrough on a movement that is unfamiliar to me. Your work to get around the hand issue & the post you made for the recessed jewel I found very interesting & useful for future reference. Great job done & very a nice watch.
  16. it is a certina 28-15
  17. Strange one. Is it by any chance a pin lever movement. I have noticed on a Timographer that the sensitivity has to be turned down with these movements to compensate for some of the unknown noises. If a swiss lever perhaps its a loose pallet. There is a fault analysis here by Witschi on pp5 it mentions the third noise !!!!!! spooky Witschi Training Course.pdf
  18. Hello! I have a couple of watches that have a strange extra sound that I don't know where it comes from. Could you share your opinions about that? I attach the mp3 file so you can hear it and also a wave print screen so you can see it. It is not knocking, hense I also attach a print screen from WOS. One scenario would be that the "run to the banking" happens later then the "locking" instead of the same time. Fixing it would mean closing the banking pins. (just thinking out loud). I am waiting for your thoughts. Thank you! Bogdan tic.mp3
  19. Thursday's is the day we get the **BLEEP** jets and helicopters, I live close to Dartmoor, the army exercise on their, some times I think we have been invaded.
  20. Any idea yet what your next one might be ??? Keep us posted and good luck .
  21. Thanks man. Pushed the hands down too hard and had to redo them as it was slowing down the watch and I noticed when I did a slow-mo of the balance rotating Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk
  22. Yesterday
  23. I've done a lot of Pierce Navigator repairs in the last year but this one was a bit special as it was the first I completed for someone other than myself. The watch is an heirloom and as such was received in much better condition than the those I've purchased off the bay. The bracelet was broken and would eventually be replaced and right off the bat I noticed that the sweep second hand was missing. The crown was also stuck in the setting position and therefore it was impossible to wind the watch. With the caseback off I could see that the chronograph staff and pinion had actually been removed sometime back. Also missing was the intermediate wheel which activates the minute recording wheel when the chronograph is engaged. My guess is that the rubber clutch for the chronograph had failed sometime in the past and the watchmaker simply removed the other bits as opposed to attempting a fix. I also noted a chip in the upper balance cap jewel. I've never seen a defect such as this before. With the dial removed, the normal accumulation of dirt and debris came to light. The setting lever snapped back into place smartly and with that I was able to check the timing. With the movement out I turned my attention to the case and pushers. The spacers for the pushers often become jammed inside the pusher button as the result of an accumulation of grime beneath the button cap. The springs, which sit between the spacer and the button, are made of stainless steel and generally hold up well over the years. I've discovered that a good soak in vinegar will usually free the spacers and springs from the buttons. With the pushers soaking I turned my attention back to the movement. As I said before, this Pierce 134 is in much better condition than those I've restored in the past. It's clear the owner has taken good care of the watch over the years. Generally I'll follow the Esembl-O-Graf (volume 15) in reverse order when disassembling a Pierce movement. I've done a few now and am getting used to the process. Looking the parts over I didn't find any that required immediate replacement so the only order placed was for a mainspring and crystal (in addition to the missing chronograph staff, pinion, and intermediate wheel). The old crystal was in fair shape but a little loose in the bezel so I opted for a new one. The damaged cap jew was chipped only on the topside and therefore I opted not to replace it. The parts were whisked off to the L&R cleaner and I turned my attention back to the pushers. The vinegar bath succeeded in freeing the spacers and springs from the buttons. I set the parts out for cataloging after cleaning and drying. At this point I'll also do any rust remediation. This movement was in fine shape but the levers for the chronograph did suffer from a bit of oxidation. The rusted bits were placed in a bath of vinegar for a good soak, then any pitting was smoothed using the Dremel tool or a rub on the Arkansas stone. The replacement chronograph staff, pinion, and intermediate wheel arrived in time for assembly. The staff needed a new clutch plate. In the past I've cut these out of nylon and although this is an adequate solution, it makes the final adjustment a lot more difficult since the nylon has so much less give than rubber. A while ago I began experimenting with rubber o-rings as a substitute. I use a rubber o-ring which had a thickness of 2mm. By sharpening an Exacto knife and lubricating it with a bit of watch oil I can cut through the o-ring with very little compression. This results in a disk that is thin enough and flat enough to use as a clutch plate for the chronograph. A punch I made on the lathe is used to place the center hole. Unfortunately since I made the o-rings before I began this service, I didn't have any images of the procedure. Assembly is straightforward provided all the gremlins have been discovered beforehand. The pallet, escape wheel, and cap jewels receive epilame treatment. The balance wheel is cleaned separately with One Dip. Put back together I noted a funky reading not the timegrapher. The culprit was a slightly bent pivot on the pallet. I replaced the pallet with one from my own stock and this resolved the problem straight away. I let the watch run overnight before beginning on the chronograph layer. It comes together a little slower as there are many more parts to lubricate and adjust. A missing sweep second hand can be a real problem with Pierce watches as the center post is 0.35mm (which is large). Fortunately I had a hand in my stock from a parts movement that would do- once I attached a post to it! I have some brass tubing that has an inside diameter of 0.35mm so I just needed to turn the outside diameter down on the lathe and rivet the post to the hand. Here I test the fit of the hand prior to painting. Once that was settled I discovered the post on the minute hand was loose also. A new post was turned on the lathe for it as well. Problems with the chronograph became apparent after fitting the hands. The culprit in this case turned out to be a damaged center jewel. This must have occurred during assembly as the jewel checked out after cleaning. Bad luck. The jewel is pressed in from the topside and so it must be removed by pressing from the bottom side (dial side). Unfortunately the jewel sits at the bottom of a long tube which required me to turn a special adaptor piece on the lathe for my Seitz tool. A replacement jewel was sourced from a donor movement and I was back in business. The owner decided on a replacement crown and a new strap and the watch finally came together. I have a bit of a thing for Pierce watches but at the same time I don't think it's much of a coincidence that the watches housing a Pierce 134 movement only seem to exist from the late 40's and early 50's as they can be a bear to get running right. In the end I was really pleased with this service though.
  24. I have some truing calipers - I have trued pocket watch balances wheels with them. The centre wheel fits in them OK. I may have bent it myself when fitting the cannon pinion. I hold the centre wheel in place with one finger, and push the cannon pinion on with tweezers, probably not the best method ?
  25. I think this movement will have folks a little foxed.
  26. Put simply, the intended lug width is on all and any spring bar box. They are not universal, each size and application has its correct spring bar.
  27. Tried but could not find exact cal.
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